wont start

[cejus13]

just bought a 95 gt 5 speed, lowered 2",17"cobras, mac cai, shorties, hi flow cats, h-pipe, and flows. yesterday when i went to leave for work it was hard to start, and it had been hesitating when i take off and when i shift unless im getting on it. today when i left for work it started fine, and i stopped at the store and it started fine, but i had to go to a meeting about an hour after i got to work and it was hard to start, it finally started and ran for about 15 sec then it just cut off. after about 30min of trying to crank it finally did but i didnt make it out of the parking lot and it died again. i have a garage to take it to but i dont want to get burned for a tow any thing i can check with minimal tools

 

[SeventyMach1]

Kind of hard to tell from our perspective ..... try to pull the codes & see what you get.

 

[cejus13]

ill try tomorrow and let ya know

 

[cejus13]

I went to get car this morning started fine. I took it to the garage on base and checked the fuel pressure, when i turn the key on it jumps to 40 then it starts to bleed down in 5psi increments to 20 but when it is running it holds steady at 33, didnt have time to pull codes, does this spark any ideas?

 

[cejus13]

the mech at the garage also told me that if the clamp on the fuel line at the pump is not on right or if it put a pinhole in the line that would cause the pressure to drop like it was. is there a valve that controls the fuel that goes through the return line, could it be bad and making my fuel pressure drop? My gas mileage sucks, i have only been about 45mi. and i am down to 5/8 of a tank, I havent been gettin on it that hard lol!

 

[SeventyMach1]

Just pull the codes yourself when you can spare a couple of minutes. Here's how: http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13 Go to the link at the bottom of the page to see what the codes translate to. BTW, our cars have 3 digit codes.

 

[a50sn95]

TFI Module.
They tend to heat up and fail. Not uncommon for them to work, not work and then work again.
Fuel pump.
It's possible after running for a while it will stop making enough fuel pressure to run. Don't know if the seals swell up or what.
When you turn your Key on (but not the engine) your should hear the pump prime the system and then stop. If it continues to run and run without the engine runnig you are having a pump issue.
I had my '86 strand me for about 20 minutes, and then start up and drive fine.
Finally failed completely.....
Neither of these will generate a code.....

 

[xr8d302]

are you referencing the PIP? That's what seemed to by my symptoms, swapped the PIP sensor, and I was good to go

 

[HISSIN50]

As long as you dont dip below 30 PSI WITH the car running (Crudely stated for the purpose of this thread), your FP is ok. It is normal for FP to bleed down when the car is off (this is a desirable thing).

WHen it wont start: check for spark. If you are missing spark, grab a noid light and check injector pulsing. If both are missing, the PIP is likely. If only spark is missing, the aforementioned TFI, coil, etc are likely.
IF you have a FP gauge, toss it on the Schrader valve when the car wont start and see what kind of priming and cranking pressure you have. The diaphrams can get weak. Once they heat up, they dont flow enough fuel. Once they cool down a little, the rubber stiffens up and they work alright again.

I will say that you might get a code for all this (IDM code, TFI, PIP, o2 [leanness], etc code). The processor in SN's is much better, faster and has more self-diagnostic capabilities than the 86's SD computer (not to disagree with A50, but we dont want to omit running codes periodically while this is happening).

Good luck.

 

[cejus13]

The pumps new but i cant hear it prime when i turn the key. What is a noid light and how do i check injector pulsing? I dont have a gauge i used one at the garage on base, i printed the page on pulling codes and i will do it tomorrow for sure. oh yeah the piece of sh!@ broke down again on the way home from work tonight, have been doing alot of short trips all day and havent had any problems (except being down on power and hesitating when i take off) left from work and the car wasnt even warmed up all the way and i started to take off from a stop sign and it just cut off and wouldnt start again?

 

[cejus13]

tried to pull codes but check engine light doesnt work, got a test light from autozone and tried to pull codes, nothing happened the test light just stayed on as soon as i hooked it up. autozone says they cant pull codes from a 95 or earlier can nappa do it?

 

[cejus13]

just pulled codes
continuous memory-332-insufficient EGR flow detected
koeo-pass
koer-314-Thermactor air system/fault during engine run self-test/left side
311-Thermactor air system/fault during engine run self-test/right side
332-insufficient EGR flow detected

 

[HISSIN50]

I would make sure the EGR is working halfway properly. If EGR gasses are introduced at idle, the car will idle poorly or stall.

Good luck.

 

[a50sn95]

The fact that you have thermactor codes too is interesting. How about this: there are a set of 3 vacuum tubes that run from the airbox area to the Thermactor valve after the smog pump, the EGR valve, and the Fuel pressure regulator. They are in some plastic wire covering. Follow them to the airbox area, and you'll fine that they end in a plug that has all three tubes embedded in a rubber end. This rubber end connects to another set of tubes. If it comes disconnected, you'll have idle issues (no egr and a big vacuum leak) and get EGR and Thermactor codes. It's worth a shot.....
Dennis

 

[cejus13]

It does idle a little ruff, hesitates when i take off and I get really bad mpg, Ill check it tomorrow. Do you think i am getting the thermactor code because of aftermarket exhaust and cai. Would it make the car cut off and not start and then start a few hours later, I bought a code scanner and have it in the car incase it breaks down again I can check the koeo for any codes.

 

[a50sn95]

No. I have all that and more and don't have any codes. Soemthing is up. I don't think it would cause it to die and then start later. I think that is TFI or pip like has been mentioned already. I don't know of a way to test the TFI, except to replace it. (Oh, there IS a special tool that would make life SOO much easier if you try it.)
D

 

[HISSIN50]

One should be able to get the TFI bench tested at the parts store.

 

[cejus13]

It died again leaving work and i pulled the codes and all i got was the 332 from the continuious memory, i had to push it a long way to a place where i could leave it and then the mf started right up and i drove it home. im going to pull the egr and the evr solenoid and test them and all of my vacume lines, and every other sensor/switch thats able to be tested! I have a chilton man. and i want to test the icm but some of the resistance test dont match the icm terminal id. which terminals are the:GID, PIP PWR, TFI PWR?

 

[94TURBO5 O]

Something simple to check are your plugs and wires. They can cause the symptons you're describing also. Fouled out plugs cause haerd starting and hesitation.

 

[cejus13]

put on a new coil, icm, and what ever that thing in the dizzy is called (cant remember lol) runs like a bat out a hell! hasnt cut off yet no hesitation on take off mpg is alot better than before. i bought a new balancer too but didnt have time to put it on today, going to try tues and mess with the timing and see whats up with those egr codes, later Im, goin for a ride! thanx for all the help!