Wow, 392's are insanely cheap to build!!

SmockDoiley said:
IF you want to get really funky, be the first guy to have an EFI Clevor and then put it in your 5.0. That would be a sick and weird combo that would turn heads at any show. A stroked EFI Clevor in a 5.0. I'm all about the weird stuff.

All of the nascar engines are clevor's, and then there is the boss 302.

Mmm, yates heads, this disease is going to kill me.
 
SmockDoiley said:
The carb intakes for a Clevor can still be had, but you can also get spacers to install pretty much any intake to any engine combo. Buy the spacer that puts a 302 or 351 intake on a Cleveland headed windsor and those spacers will also work with an EFI intake. Easy as that. That would be a sick and weird combo that would turn heads at any show. A stroked EFI Clevor in a 5.0.

What about headers for those Cleveland heads in a Fox Body ?? :shrug:
 
One thing you have to remember is that a 302 flat top piston that makes 9.5-1 compression in a 302 will make close to 12-1 in a 393 combo.

You need to find some pistons with around a 10-15cc dish to knock compression down. Depending on head choices, you can run the flat top piston and a set of 70cc Victor JR heads and still be able to run pump gas.
 
For the 392 Clevor, you need custom pistons. The Boss 302 pistons will not work. They use a piston with a 1.5x pinheight compared to the 1.6x pinheight on the 289/302s.

Hedman headers makes all kinds of oddball headers and I know for a fact they have headers to run a FE 428 engine in a Fox. ;)
 
"would it be easier just to build a 331 with a s trim and get the same results"

Not for the same price, the 392 he mentions here will support quite abit of power until parts come into question. A 331 with S trim is going to need high quality high $$ parts if you want it last.

If you want forged pistons then just get a set of TW power forged pistons from summit for @ $260.
 
331 cobra said:
I was just beeing practical, I drool when I pass unused wherehouses and other industrial buildings. Have you ever seen Harra's auto museum, that should do it.
LOL me 2
I have that sickness,
Im drriving by like:
Just five me a one bedroom house next to that industrial garage hanger building.
Then its like,
I wonder how much it would cost :D .
I am not alone anymore.........
 
Bizz said:
LOL me 2
I have that sickness,
Im drriving by like:
Just five me a one bedroom house next to that industrial garage hanger building.
Then its like,
I wonder how much it would cost :D .
I am not alone anymore.........

My wife and I have thought about buying an industrial type warehouse, and sectioning off a part of it to live in, and then storing an entire HERD of mustangs to work and play with in the other half.

No, you are most definitely not alone.

Sir Hacksalot
 
Katmandu, I have a set of headers to install a cleveland motor in a fox body. They are full length Hedman Hustler Headers. Never ran, still have the box. I paid just over 500 for them from Summit. If you're intrested I would sell them for 400. Pm me if your interested.
 
EDIT: DUH I JUST READ THE WHOLE POST.


CHP has a 393 CHP GT kit for 899. Inside back cover july 2004 MM&FF. Save almost 200. Bet it is comparable in quality to what you just listed including forged pistons, moly rings and crank and rod bearings.

How is that for cheap?
 
I think the rotating assembly I quoted is $644. Forged pistons would be nice but I dont see the need unless your adding a power adder. The thing that bothers me is that a lot of people came in here and complained that it would be strong enough and that you need to spend more for quality. You dont need to spend $4000 for an engine that will haul. The idea of this post was to give some ideas on how to build a cheap stroker short block. I understand that it takes more parts to put the engine in the car but I quoted for a short block. On top of that I know it takes better parts to support a power adder but thats only if you are pushing more than 6 lbs. Hypers are horrible and they are better than cast. And I know a lot of folks running superchargers on stock 93+ engines and they have hypers. 351's are incredibly strong and even with stock rods, cast crank and hyper pistons they will support more power then you'd ever make in a 302. 351's are thick strong blocks and the cranks are way thicker in the journals than a 302 so the need isnt there for forged parts and that is why most 351 stroker kits dont come with forged cranks. Its of course a good idea if you plan on making mad power, but joe shmo on here doesnt need it. Plop that short block in with a set of vic jr's or highports and a good cam and that thing will run for years without breaking a sweat. Hyper pistons can support NA power all day long and anyone that would need to push a 351 stroker past 5500-6000 rpms is either a serious racer or a moron and in which case they need something stouter but this combo is a solid street NA or low boost setup.
 
I think it is a good idea. Do you have serious plans to build this moto, or just toying with the idea.

I have a stock bottom 351 with forged pistons about 11.5:1 a the biggest hydraulic flat cam lunati makes. I am making near 525 in at the flywheel. Possibly less because I dont know what the car weighs. A stroker with a decent streetable setup should make in the same area of power reliably for a long time. Many engines have hyper pistons without any issues.
If you keep the power adders away and keep the RPMs reasonable. I'd say 6500 max if everything is balanced. You are right on with your predictions.

Get started. You have a lot of work to do and we all want to see what happens.
 
SmockDoiley said:
You dont need Boss 302 pistons, just standard pistons with a good valve relief or have them notched. The only problem with the cleveland valves is their size.
Be careful here, some of the lower cost pistons can be cut for the 351C or Boss 302 heads. A set of TRW bricks or cheap cast/hyper piston, might work fine

Some of the higher end pistons, do not have large enough valve pockets. The valve pocket is to small to move the valve relief. The ligher the piston, the smaller the valve pocket. (FWIW...the valve pocket is the area were the area of the piston were the valve reliefs are cut). You also have to be careful about the top ring land, a Windsor piston cut for the Cleveland valve could leave the piston to thin above the ring land. This would be a disaster when the piston fails

351C valves to big ? :lol:

/me thinks you don't have enough camshaft/motor to use them...
 
331 cobra said:
There is a reason people spend $4,000 on a short block. You get a forged crank, better, longer rods, forged pistons, better rings, better bearings, and more displacement.

The $4,000 shortblock will allow you to rev the engine higher because of it's better rod to stroke ratio, spray it without melting pistons, and make a bit more power per cubic inch.

If those things don't matter to you, it is a bargain.

I obviously have problems settling for good enough.

So, a forged crank is $250 more than cast, that's worth it. I can't put cheap rods on my forged crank, so I'll go get some billet cnc profiled lunati's. What's the best 5.0 intake? I hear good things about the roush...

It's a sickness, but I continue to treat the symptom.

Agreed, it is a sickness!!! I don't know about you, but are you gonna feel safe with stock bits and pieces in your block pushing 500 horses? When you hit the 500 horse range, you still have to remember you may have $1000 in the block, but you'll be replacing many little things to with-stand that kind of power....clutch, axles, tranny??, you name it. Having 500 horses will easily be more wear and tear, especially if you drive your stang like I do! lol. The point here is, once you start, you can't stop...

Why not do it right, and put forged pistons in, steal crank, rods, you name it! Then you don't have to pull the block back out after you fried your rings or done some other major damage. The fact is, you may be spending $1000 on a block, but you will be slowly forced to replace other things, like it or not.