Yet another v8 swap

I have been researching this swap for my 77 V6 to a 90 302 . I am getting mixed information . I have done one engine swap before inline 6 to v8, so I understand the basics of making parts match up etc. I have the list from Mustang 2 site . I would like to hear from folks that have done the swap on this forum . I dont need handholding just a little clarity. I get the car on Monday so no hurry . I'd like to plan it out based on good Intel. BTW it is a C4/ 8 " rear car. Thanks.
 
Hi Bob! What clarification are you looking for? As @Blackhawkxx said, the oil pans are unique in order to clear the rack and pinion. Exhaust can be one of the most challenging parts of it all since it's so tight. Ford made a smaller flywheel/flexplate and corresponding bell housing specifically for the II and it's smaller transmission tunnel but there have been plenty of people who've used a standard bell housing with no problem. Just be aware that clearances will be tight and may need massaging. That's the big stuff that I can think of off the top of my head.....
 
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Off the top of my head you'll need:
V-8 Mustang II motor mounts
V-8 Mustang II frame brackets for motor mounts
V-8 Mustang II oil pan (there are some aftermarket pans that will fit)
V-8 Mustang II exhaust manifolds or headers
141 tooth flex plate balanced to 50 oz for the 1990 engine
V-8 Mustang II bellhousing for C4 trans
V-8 Mustang II torque converter
 
Will this pan fit ?
ATP Oil Pan
- 1978 Ford Mustang II
ATP Oil Pan

SKU: 5483-06182246
Engine Oil Pan -- With Dipstick Tube In Pan
 
Will this pan fit ?
ATP Oil Pan
- 1978 Ford Mustang II
ATP Oil Pan

SKU: 5483-06182246
Engine Oil Pan -- With Dipstick Tube In Pan

No, that is for a Fox. Mustang IIs get a front sump pan that hugs the crankshaft on the back half to give clearance for the rack and pinion. Here is a pic comparison of 2 different front sump pans, one being for the II.

Here's a quick how-to on changing an oil pan gasket on a 302 without removing the engine. It's the same steps as changing a starter more or less, so it's basically 2 birds with 1 stone.

First, raise the car to an appropriate height and support it. Remove the (-) battery cable from the battery.

Pull the mounting bolts from the rack and pinion. You're not going to remove it, just manipulate it so it's out of your way. In my case, I lifted the right front tire from the pedestal it was on so that side would turn freely.

Remove the cable from the starter.

IMG_20200523_111312.webp


If your car still has the secondary cross member bolted in place, remove it. That gives you access to the bottom starter bolt as well as clearer access to the back oil pan bolts. Remove the starter by removing the 2 bolts holding it in.

Remove the sway bar bushings and brackets from the frame and let the sway bar hang.

Remove the oil pan bolts and remove the oil pan from the car. I had to wiggle it over the sway bar and out of the car.

IMG_20200523_113437.webp


This picture is to illustrate the difference between a II oil pan and another stock front sump pan. I also have a picture of the part number for the oil pan. I'm not sure if it's the complete part number or not, but what I have is still visible. The II pan is behind the standard.

IMG_20200523_114031.webp


IMG_20200523_115201.webp


Installation is the reverse of these steps. I purchased the newer one piece oil pan gasket which comes with threaded plastic retaining clips, they're extremely helpful for reinstalling everything. :)