What are the downsides of going with a fiberglass hood? Will cracks eventually form where the hinges and latch attach? I want the stock look and don't want to add hood pins. The positives obviously would be the 50% weight savings.

Sometimes you've gotta change it up and watch The View or a Hallmark movie or something....

I mean, some of us retired guys are waiting for an update. How much weather channel can we watch?

Toddfly13 said:

Have a 2008 Mustang that recently changed the computer, Motorcraft fuel injectors and NGK spark plugs. Getting a P0205 code.

I confirmed power from the battery to the injector.

No Ground from the ECM.

Nothing on Noid light.

Any suggestions to find the problem. Could the computer possibly be bad? Bad connector? And anybody know what pin on the computer is the ground for the #5 injector?

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Did you ever find out what the problem was?

I did swap the input shaft. I'm running ATF and the clutch is properly adjusted. I'll probably put some miles on it to see if it loosens up. I'm afraid I have something binding on the 5-R rail. I know T5's are fairly easy to rebuild so that might be where it's headed.

limp said:

Wasn't 94 when ford started using a different bellhousing and the different length input shaft on the T5?

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Yes but if it shifts and drives then he, swapped the above parts or it was not a 94 trans.

Yes, input shafts and bell housings are different. Swap input shaft and retainer to Fox parts and the T5 is good to go.

That does bring up something else. When this is done you have to shim the input shaft via the retainer. This will cause issues if not done correctly.

I run their 2” cowl and it’s pricey but the quality is IMO the best. Bottom side of the hood is bot rough and basically ready for paint.

Wasn't 94 when ford started using a different bellhousing and the different length input shaft on the T5?

Off the top of my head would be wrong fluid, bad synchros and/or poor clutch adjustment. If the clutch is adjusted and you are running the correct fluid then it’s time to pull the trans out and break it down for an inspection.

I assume this is not your everyday driver?
It is such a nice car it hurts to see it hacked up..
Since your plans have changed have you thought of finding another car for your coyote project?
Maybe a V8 manual car that is not in as good a shape? Your going to have to take apart whatever car you will be getting so why not a Parts car to start with?
You can drive this car as is ( if you need to) or sell it to finance your project. Not a rusted out junker, but maybe a V8 car missing its drivetrain or the front end bolt on parts?
A parts car would allow you to slowly work on it when the monies are there.....

I would absolutely NOT do this.
Call the company and if they don't handle it, find a big name place that still sells it, buy it, put this one in the box and return it.
I've seen serpentine belts come off and take out AC and power steering hoses.
I can only imagine the carnage from the fan coming off too at 5000rpm while you are driving.
I'm also not sure of the shear strength of 10-32's or if they really make grade 8 versions. As an electrician we use them all the time and if you pull on them, they are strong, if you side load them they can be bent or broken.

This is a pointless gamble and you may spend the rest of the time you own the car wondering when the fan is going to fly off and if and when you forget, that's when it will happen.
I've broken a belt when driving, it's kinda scary for a moment as you really don't know what's going on, especially since the steering barely works.

I know, right?! What am I thinking about! Work sucks anyway....

I bought the non silicone hose kit from LMR and while it was nice to get every hose I need, they are very thin and cheesy. I will be getting Gates hoses asap.

I hope my decision to repair this pump doesn't come back to bite me but... I decided to drill and tap the hub for 10-32 set screws on opposite sides of the hub. I also pressed hub on with Loctite 638 retaining compound. I've been known to make some less than sensible decisions in the past, I guess I'll see if this repair holds up. Thanks for all the input.

Maybe if it had black cloth, 1 of 185, but I thought this leather was below par back in 1993.

You'll need a 1992 engine harness, injector harness, and 5 speed o2 harness. Also will need a A9m or a9l. Could opt for ms3 or mspnp2 for controlling the engine. Doing a 4 banger swap ( the right way ) isn't cheap without a donor car.

If you can luck up and find a 5 speed 94 to 98 v6 it would help a lot. You'll need a bellhousing from a 95 to 95 to make the transmission work with a 5.0. You can swap the pedals, brake booster, prop valve, and master cylinder over. Would be best to use 93 cobra booster and master cylinder with an adjustable prop valve.The explorer engine is a good start but you'll need a roller camshaft distributor and a list of other things to use the fuel injection. This can easily be resolved with vacuum advance small cap distributor for a roller cam, carburetor intake, and a holley sniper.

LILCBRA said:

Nope, not yet. Been busy with work and other stuff.

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You need to get your priorities straight!

Just to be clear, when you say it won't fully turn over, do you mean it won't crank or it cranks but won't start.