Questions,Questions,Questions!!!

[toxzzic1]

I finally had a chance to start going over my car to see what it did and did not have. When I bought it the guy said it had full suspension upgrades. That wound up being 50/50 and 90/10 shocks, cal tracks, removed sway bars and different springs. I am going to take the wheels off tomorrow and look at the springs to see exactly what they are. I also pulled the valve covers and he used stamped rockers instead of rollers. I also looked at the maf. He said it came from a cobra and that it is calibrated for the 36# injectors that are on the car. It also has the stock distributor with a msd cap and rotor. So I need suggestions. What would you recommend on suspension? Should I change the rockers to rollers?Should I get a different MAF? What is a blow through maf ? Should I use a different distributor? I hear a lot of people talking about an fmu. I assume this is a fuel management system. would that just consist of a fuel pressure regulator and gauge? As you can see I need a lot of suggestions.

The current setup is
306 c.i.d.
forged internals
Ford e cam
gt40 heads
typhoon upper and lower intake w/1" bbk spacer and 75 mm throttle body
bbk long tube headers with bbk h pipe and flowmasters
Powerdyne bd11a s/c
373 gears

 

[toxzzic1]

19 views and no suggestions. Surely someone can give me some advice.

 

[Boosted92LX]

Ok, I'll get this one.

You've gotta be more specific about what your plans are for the car, man. Are you going to daily drive it? Street/strip? Autocross or agressive road handling? What you do with it at least suspension wise hinges on these criteria. You're being really vague about a lot of stuff here. Give us all an idea of what you're going to do with the car and people will start speaking up.

Also, There are stickys at the top of this board full of F.A.Q.'s and answers to all things fox mustang. Sometimes you can find anwers there when things are slow here.

 

[toxzzic1]

It will be used as a street/strip car. Not a daily driver but would like it to handle decently on curvy roads when we do take it for a drive. I thought about just putting the sway bars back on and leaving it. Would that handle any better? I am planning on changing the heads,intake,and cam a little down the road and I am looking for a s or t trim vortech. After talking to several peopleI am going to use the same distributor that I have and switch to roller rockers. How do I know what size roller rockers to use? Since I am going to a different S/C I know that I will need 60# injectors so I am going to try to find a pro m. How do I know what size maf I need? Is there any benefit of a blow through? Finally when should I add an fmu? I know I have a lot of questions but I just want to get it right the first time.

 

[Boosted92LX]

Well, I'll take a few of them.. First- yes, put the swaybars back on and lose the 90/10 shocks. Those are for strip use only. Just doing this will change the personality of the car completely. After doing this see how you like it, and if you still desire better handling you can go with a stiffer spring or coilovers, and upgraded sway bars. There are also a ton of other supsension accessories for these cars and you literally can spend more than what the car is worth... Start where I suggested and go from there.

As far as engine mods, I'm no blower expert, but we have many here. Give a few Ideas of what kind of boost you want, and what kind of h.p. you want to produce, and then maybe we can help there...

 

[toxzzic1]

I am currently at 348 rwhp. I am planning on changing heads to either afr 185's or trickflows. It depends on what type of pistons I have. Gotta get a bore scope to find out. I am changing the upper and lower intake to a holley systemax and adding a water/meth setup and finally going to a different custom grind cam. Upgrading to a 60# injectors and new maf once I get the new blower. Looking to get at least 500rwhp. The goal is to get a nice streetable 10 second street car. I have to read up on fmu's because I know nothing about them. I will also try to find a reputable shop to get a new tune. I am going to pull the kick panel tomorrow to see what computer I have.

 

[hoopty5.0]

As far as suspension goes, if you want something to handle on the street, yet still have the right weight transfer at the track, I would put adjustable shocks on all four corners. Strange makes the more affordable/better quality units and many racers run them. This way, you can tighten everything up on the road and then loosen the fronts up at the track.

You mentioned having sway bar(s) off the car - at the very least, put the rear one back on. Otherwise, if you are serious about racing your car look at putting an aftermarket anti-roll bar on.

You more than likely have pistons for an in-line valve set up. People don't put pistons cut for TFS heads just for grins and then run GT-40s.

Your cam should be the last piece of the puzzle. Collect your heads and intake, and whatever blower you want to run and call a custom cam shop with what parts you have and what you are trying to do. They'll walk you through everything and set you up with a cam to maximize the potential of your setup. I know when I sent my info to Bullet, they wanted to know EVERYTHING about my car down to tire size. "I dunno, haven't bought it yet" Is not an acceptable answer.

The methanol setup will help too since you appear to be running a non-intercooled boosted engine. It would be interesting to see your IATs before and after the methanol as well as the difference in horsepower, but here is a similar setup - http://www.snowperformance.net/dyno_chart_view.php?type=gasoline&dck=6

Why a Holley Systemax? If it were me, I'd buy an intake matched with my heads TFS heads/TFS intake or Eddy heads/ eddy intake. Just a question, I doubt it matters in the final scheme of things. What I'm getting at mainly is make a plan and follow it - don't just buy random parts and think they'll all work together.

***This is the disclaimer at the end of the post where the author states that most of the above is personal opinion and several others may agree or disagree. The information was gained from personal experience as well as many, many hours of READING on this forum and many others to combat extreme boredom offshore.

 

[toxzzic1]

when the engine was built the builder used a different set of heads and probe pistons. When he sold the car he kept his heads and put the gt40's on. The gentleman that I bought it off of was happy with the gt40's so it did not matter to him. He has all of the paperwork on the build if he can find it. What he cannot remember is if it has the SRS series or the FPS. If it has the SRS I will be running AFR 185's with the Systemax setup. If it has the FPS I will run the Trickflow setup. As far as Edelbrock The intake I am running is pretty much a duplicate and I have not seen anyone running big numbers with there heads. I have built several engines over the years but mostly carbed. I agree that everything has to flow together. RPM ranges need to match up so that everything works together. You don't need random parts working at all different RPM ranges.

 

[Rick 91GT]

With the 60lb injector upgrade (No FMU neecded) Id look at a 92mm Pro M meter with the blower set-up, you need a draw through meter with a Vortech/Paxton, the blowthrough meters are made for intercooled set-ups. New heads will require stud mount rockers so that issue can be taken care of at that time.

I like the Holley/AFR 185cc plan or Holley/TFS 190cc plan for some reason

As far as suspension. the 90/10 leave the frnt end up too high on a fox stang, Id buy a set of Strange 10 way adj front struts and adjustable rear shocks..give you the best of both worlds. I like coil overs up front, maybe swap the K-member if the motor comes out to save some more weight.

 

[toxzzic1]

Thanks Rick. I will try to get with you this week and get the ball rolling on some of the things we have talked about. I am trying to find a bore scope but not having a lot of luck. I may just pull one of the heads and get the part number so I know which way to go. Which head did you recommend if it did not have the valve reliefs needed for the AFR 185's? I am hoping I can use the 185's. I don't see why anyone would build a forged short block and not have the reliefs in the pistons. But I guess I will soon see.

 

[Rick 91GT]

If they are SRS pistons the AFR185 or if they are FPS TFS. Hopefully the seller can locate the build sheet.

 

[toxzzic1]

What is the big difference in using the AFR vs the TFS? The reason I am asking is it worth the wait to find out what pistons I have or should I just go ahead and get the TFS?