New Member. I am considering having my heads pulled and worked, adding cams and new valves and springs on a 2003 4.6 2v. I am not looking to make another 200 h.p., another 100 would be great. I am older and won’t be going to the track. I just want more useable horsepower and it will be a chance to add headers and exhaust also. I have priced trickflow heads and cams. Is reworking the P.I. heads a decent option to spending the 5k for the trickflow heads and cams? If I could make 350hp out of the engine and spend around 3500 bucks could this be done? I can pull heads and reinstall myself with help. I am a great plumber, learning mechanic.

Hey all, Ive been looking everywhere for louvers for sale for my 85 fox. All I can seem to find is either really bulky ones (6-7 slat) or really thin ones (around 12 slat). I was really interested in a set of 9 slat louvers but I can't find them anywhere. Can anyone help me with this?

Anyone use Anti Seize or something else on each end of your front brake pads?? 99-04 two piston calipers is what I am working on...

Hi all! I’ve been doing a lot of searching and was sent here by Jrichker. I have an 89 lx 5.0 5 speed. Only mod is flowmaster cat back. I have been chasing and banging my head for a year now. Car runs bad a lot but every once in a while runs ok. Always takes a lot of turning over to get it to start. Once I turn it over enough to get it somewhat warm it’ll die. It’ll keep dying until I give it some gas and feather it a lot. When it gets really warm it will run decent… until I changed the distributor after getting a code for PIP. It ran about the same after the new distributor then wouldn’t fire after a while. I found that manipulating the distributor and tapping on the tfi or moving wires seemed to work.. so I replaced it under warranty. Fast forward to yesterday. Now it misses a lot and won’t run good at all. I’ve also changed plugs, wires, 2 computers, act and ect, maf, fuel pump, fuel filter, tps, and maybe some other stuff I can’t remember. I’m really getting to the point of giving up but I don’t want to. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I think I got my ride height the way I want but after the shelby drop Im experiencing very negative camber. I have a 302 and did the shelby drop with a template, replaced the springs with 1" lower springs and new kyb shocks. I am currently reading around -1 degrees of negative camber on the driver side and around -2 degrees of negative camber on the passenger side. The problem is on the passenger side with the -2 degree of camber, the bolt is all the way over towards the center of the car, which is as positive as the bolt will go so -2 degrees, currently is as good as it will get. The driver side however, the bolt is in the middle of the slot and can go more negative or positive. The passenger side camber bolt will only have negative camber regardless of where it is.

Just want to hear your thoughts about where Im possibly screwing up. I have yet to drive the car a little so maybe just bumping the suspension can help things settle. The caster is as screwed in as it can be to help the camber. Im looking for at least -1 degree of camber and will call it a win at that point. Thanks!

Hey all.
I am currently trying to get my caliper back on after a suspension overhaul. It looks retracted, though it the pads are still rubbing on the rotor. When I press the brakes, it moves very little. Is this normal? Am I being an idiot and missing something obvious? My car is an 86 5.0 AOD. Here is a video. I press the brake pedal twice in this video all the way down.

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hi I have this fuse or relay not sure I can’t find anything related but do I need this and if I do where does it connect it’s close to the battery just sitting there the car runs( idk if it’s related but the fuel and oil gauge don’t work) my car is a 1990 hatchback 5.0

I have gone through two ignition modules in two months. I have found no codes thrown and difficulty in isolating with power to the coil nothing coming back to the low voltage side of the distributor. distributor. With the last replacement I put in a #14 stranded wire from the module frame to chassis ground. Are these failures caused by a surge at start up? Is there a more substantial aftermarket module? (Both failures were NAPA). Am I on the right track?

I have a 95 gt. I added a 75 mm throttle body with a compatible air intake. It ran fine for about 100 feet till it started a high idle (2grand). The engine would stay at the rpm and speed that i left it at until I either revved it again or shifted. My tps will not stay at the voltage I set it to. So I replaced it and I'm still having the same problem. It feels like the throttle is getting stuck but only if the tps is plugged in. It runs decent if it's unplugged.if plugged in it won't start or idles high and the above problems persist. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Local mechanic won't work on it due to being aftermarket parts. So yall are my only hope. Thank you.

Is it me , or does something looks strange/different with the frontend (accessories ) of this engine?

Thought this was a pretty cool feature of the 2024 Mustang from the reveal yesterday.

Hello all:
Once again, the 86GT is giving me problems. Here goes:
While working on the ac not functioning, the car would not start or crank. Just the fuel pump hum and one click from under the hood. The battery has 12.8 volts, I replaced the starter relay with a Motorcraft one( lucky I had a spare), and nothing. Checked the shop manual and decided in accordance with the manual to replace the starter. Had it rebuilt locally and reinstalled it on the car (what fun). And the same result. I know check for fuel and spark. I'd say fuel is likely good as I replaced the pump this past Spring. That's fuel pump number 8 in 24 years of ownership. I just wanted cold ac for the summer and now nothing. So I need some ideas because I am out of patience with this car. Something breaks EVERY year in the driveway and I'm out money and time. Funny how this began when I moved to this awful state. I recall a post with a complete diagnostic routine but can't seem to find it. All ideas most welcome. Cheers.

Seems as if everybody is looking for one so I thought I would pass this on....
Its just west of Lake Wales Florida on HWY 60 at Meyers Towing.... I " think" it is a small for sale lot they have.... The cars are all lined up like they are for sale....
Car has the flush headlights 87 up? Convertible with a 5 litre emblem in front of the door on the front fender.....
I think its green?, I am a bit color blind..... Looks clean, driving by at 45 mph......
Just passing this on......

I finally have the front end going together on my out of control 'Grocery" getter...
Thought I would share some pictures with any of you going in this direction and what I dd...
This is about the front end only...
Most of you know the story, 1983 V8 SROD 4 speed, 302 convertible, my sister purchased in 84/85 ish...
I inherited the car almost two years ago... My goal is a nice running driver..
Not sure I could have done this without all of the help I received/receive daily on this site...
Special thanks to Mustang5L5 for his in depth directions and experience he patiently shares with all.....

I wasn't sure which way I was going with the 5 lug conversion, but after I found and purchased SN95 spindles, that made it much simpler..
Here is a pic of the spindles, before and after cleaning, wire wheeling and paint....
These were in the local WY.. I paid $70 for the pair... I used Cast Iron gray color.....

I have this switch NOS and the box looks late 80's vintage or early 90's.

SW-1744-B
E6FZ-11572-A

Is this the one that burns down cars and has been superceeded?

I dont want to install it, i want to sell it. But if this is the "bad" one perhaps its better off in the trash. Looking for a copy of the Ford recall as it usually lists what part numbers in Ford inventory to scrap