My sn does that, decel as soon as I let off, but I've got the a9l computer with a 93 TB setup, so that may be the reason.
Grady, what position is the stock position for the things you mentioned. How do I know if my bleed stop is off or my blade stop is off? When the car is off, the blade is completely closed. I haven't checked it out to see of it has that small hole, which is said to help idle. I don't have many idle problems, except that my window from releasing the clutch and accelerating is very tiny, if I miss it my car can bog and even die. What do you thinks accounts for this.
DON"T MEAN TO HIJACK, BUT WE"RE ON THE SUBJECT ALREADY.
Yeah Nacho
Eric is right on about the function of the throttle body blade stop screw
A lot of times, you see peeps have opened it too far trying to up the idle.
You can find all kinds of methods to setup all that stuff but basically here are a few things I've found with my car and some stuff I've seen working with other 94-95 self tuner peeps.
You don't want the stop screw too far out
Just enough to keep the blade from sticking
I've obtained a stable idle with the bleed screw as far in as 1.5 turns and as far out as 2.5 turns. Its setting is of course effected by how you have other things setup in the pcm such as tb airflow, isc neutral idle airflow points, and the like.
I usually find the most stable idle from having the isc setup where when I pull the plug the car almost dies or does in fact die.
Now about the tps setting thing
I've worked with quite a few 94-95 peeps who self tune and I've asked them about setting the tps. They've told me they can find no evidence to support the setting of the tps on our cars like the fox boys do. I've seen it be fairly far below that magical, mystical value of .98-.99 in many dlogs peeps have sent me over the years and none of them had idle issues.
On my 95, I've had my stock stuff, a self ported E7 head combo, and this current combo with two different tb's/tps sensors. I never touched the tps on either of those tb's even though they were below that .98 value. I didn't have an unstable idle or hanging idle on any of those combos. When I ran my oem tb the setting was .93 and my current tb is at .96 with both values being out of the box values.
I've seen some on these Stang boards say it made a difference for them when they set it and I am glad it worked for them
I can't see a reason why I should argue against their positive results
but
I've often suspected they were too far out of an acceptable range to begin with due to some mechanical problem.
Hey it worked with the Fox
so
it must be so for the 94-95
I just don't believe it to be so
Since this subject has not come up in a good while and we got so many noobs lately, I feel it would be helpful if I repeat this info
It is not gonna hurt anything in the pcm if you wanna set it
however
Over the years I've seen many hose up their tb or tps when they tried to set it
About the hanging idle
Usually its caused from the stop screw being too far out and that in turn can throw the isc totally all out of whack
I've seen the bleed screw being too far out to cause it.
I've seen the spark being too high cause it as well.
As for fuel pressure
If you self tune ..............
You REALLY REALLY don't wanna be hosing around with it
It will just jack around all your efforts to optimize the pcm values
Another thing about a hanging or unstable idle.
How close is the maf curve at and around the idle points.
How stable are the K's at and around the idle rpm.
I can say for certain, my 95 does a bit better if the af ratio is a bit fat at idle.
Each combo can be different
so
You just have to get in there and fart around with the values to see what your particular Stang likes for good drivability
Now .... thats not to say
When your fartin around
You shouldn't use some logical reasoning to do that fartin around
Grady
