Look what I bought instead of a supercharger?

[Pennywise2]

http://www.xcceleration.com/sti.gt35.race2.kit.htm
Once the cylinder heads are off the STI they are off
for custom stage four port and polish.
Than my STI will be going here for custom dyno tuning.
http://www.gruppe-s.com/Contact/service.htm

 

[hotmustang331]

Congrats! Should be WICKED awsome!!!!!!!!!

But one question....the price at the bottom says it costs $31,449.99 + shipping. Please tell me you didnt spend that

 

[Pennywise2]

Thanks.
I know of one other guy that got 700whp with this setup.
How is your turbo install going Hotmustang331?
Is the weather getting any better to work on your mustang?
What kind of numbers do you think you will get with your TT setup?
Just wondering?

 

[SaleenGT2001]

thats as much as the whole car costs!

seems way too high to me. i can build one HELL of a car with 60K!

 

[bradvols]

$31,000

HOOOOOOLLLLLLLLLYYYYY S##T that damn thing better make monster horsepower and set land speed records for that

 

[LaserRed01GT]

I sure hope the pricetag on that kit is a typo.

 

[Dope 97GT]

i hope its for the car with the kit installed...like a roush or somethin...cause dammmnnnn

 

[mustangcam]

do u realize how fast u could make a mustang with that kinda money? it says 550 on the sti? u would be so far over that if u spent it on a stang. and u'd have enough money left to buy another stang for a dd. and make that stang faster than mine is now. crazy

 

[Pennywise2]

i hope its for the car with the kit installed...like a roush or somethin...cause dammmnnnn

Me and cousin are building this car.I should have this car built and tuned in
one month or less.You can make 700whp with this complete kit depending
on who dyno tunes your STI.I actually got a nice discount on this kit and
when I am done it will be one powerhouse indeed since I am getting tuned
by one of the best Subie tuners in North America.
The parts I already have.
Stage 4 clutch.
New fuel lines and surge tank that will be needed.
Boost,EGT,and A/F gauges.
Gauge pod.
Every tool I will need for the fabrication.
When the boost starts the bull***** ends!

 

[hotmustang331]

Thanks.
I know of one other guy that got 700whp with this setup.
How is your turbo install going Hotmustang331?
Is the weather getting any better to work on your mustang?
What kind of numbers do you think you will get with your TT setup?
Just wondering?

Actually its coming along much better now...now that im done jacking with proturbokits (1 month delay on header flanges alone), and alot of
"our shipping guy must have had a brain fart....we will get that out to you", (over a week after I order and then call) "Oh, those 2.5 inch V bands are on back order now...another 2-3 weeks (canceled...thanks for calling haha)" , and ofcourse ALOT of "ring, ring, ring, ring....recorder" ...guys never answer the darn phone.
I ordered everything I needed from them originally (little did I know)...and then when I need another part of the same, I am forced to use them again so I KNOW im getting the same part. One good thing is that when you do get them on the phone they are the nicest people in the world to you....just have a short memory . OFF RANT

Drivers side of the system is bolted up with the turbo mounted. We took the pass side header over to the Tig welded today for final welding...once we get it back in a few days the pass side system can go up.
We have to do the following to get the car running besides just bolting/putting things back togethor and refilling the fluids. (almost everything is inplace already)

1. rebuild and ceremic the SHORT (<1 foot) drivers side turbo-IC pipe...somehow it doesnt fit after I ceremic coated it LOL. (weird)
2. make 2 flanges W/ ribbed hose bib for the oil drain back ports on the turbos.
3. finish the thermostat housing-to-radiator pipe.
4. clean up and then ceremic coat flange and collector of the pass header (I know EASY....but it is something haha)
5. heat the up/down pipes after they are in place and bend them back to their orignial/intended locations due to SLIGHT pitch variations in the collector outlets of the mock up headers and new SS headers. (its not that bad at all)

So, with that said....we really dont have very much left to do. Depending on when we get the headers back, we are shooting to have it fired up sometime this Sunday

 

[Gearbanger 101]

Wow. $31,449.99 + shipping.......and people tell me I wasted to much time and money on making my Cougar fast.

 

[Pennywise2]

Actually its coming along much better now...now that im done jacking with proturbokits (1 month delay on header flanges alone), and alot of
"our shipping guy must have had a brain fart....we will get that out to you", (over a week after I order and then call) "Oh, those 2.5 inch V bands are on back order now...another 2-3 weeks (canceled...thanks for calling haha)" , and ofcourse ALOT of "ring, ring, ring, ring....recorder" ...guys never answer the darn phone.
I ordered everything I needed from them originally (little did I know)...and then when I need another part of the same, I am forced to use them again so I KNOW im getting the same part. One good thing is that when you do get them on the phone they are the nicest people in the world to you....just have a short memory . OFF RANT

Drivers side of the system is bolted up with the turbo mounted. We took the pass side header over to the Tig welded today for final welding...once we get it back in a few days the pass side system can go up.
We have to do the following to get the car running besides just bolting/putting things back togethor and refilling the fluids. (almost everything is inplace already)

1. rebuild and ceremic the SHORT (<1 foot) drivers side turbo-IC pipe...somehow it doesnt fit after I ceremic coated it LOL. (weird)
2. make 2 flanges W/ ribbed hose bib for the oil drain back ports on the turbos.
3. finish the thermostat housing-to-radiator pipe.
4. clean up and then ceremic coat flange and collector of the pass header (I know EASY....but it is something haha)
5. heat the up/down pipes after they are in place and bend them back to their orignial/intended locations due to SLIGHT pitch variations in the collector outlets of the mock up headers and new SS headers. (its not that bad at all)

So, with that said....we really dont have very much left to do. Depending on when we get the headers back, we are shooting to have it fired up sometime this Sunday

I understand what you are saying it's very challenging and quite hard
peicing a turbo kit together.The best of luck with your project and
God bless you and your father with your challenge that confronts you.
That's why I decided to purchase a complete kit so,it will be somewhat
easier.Are you shipping your car to Tim at MPH for custom dyno tuning?

 

[hotmustang331]

Nice sig GB ...best on SN (unless thats an altered man )

 

[hotmustang331]

I understand what you are saying it's very challenging and quite hard
peicing a turbo kit together.The best of luck with your project and
God bless you and your father with your challenge that confronts you.
That's why I decided to purchase a complete kit so,it will be somewhat
easier.Are you shipping your car to Tim at MPH for custom dyno tuning?

You too man and thanks .

And yes, its not exactly easy (they headers anyway...they quite litterly have to be PERFECT to be able to get them in/out without removing/loosening the MM or K member, and to make them fit W/O hitting anything when you bolt them down.) ...I definatly wouldnt recoomend doing this to the adverage person.

Someone like you or other people who install turbos/fabricate things for a living would be the only people I could even remotely recommend this sortof build to.

Anyhow, to answer your question, what I did was I put my stock MAF inplace of the BA 2400 and left the stock injectors in....this SHOULD keep the tune almost exactly like it was before I pulled the car down, by just staying out of boost. That way I can drive it to MPH, and then when I get there, ill swap out the stock MAF and 19# injectors, for my SCT BA-2400 MAF and FRPP 42# injectors

I also have a turbosmart Eboost 2 hooked up to the same line my BOV is on....a direct feed from the lower portion of the inner plenum (behind the TB blade obviously) ....so I can monitor the pressure/vacuum of the engine. If I see the pressure creeping up out of vacuum towards 0 PSI I can back off the throttle so the car doesnt go lean. (The E boosts solenoids for waste gate control are hooked up to a boost only source after the IC and BOV, about 8 inches before the MAF and well over a foot before the TB blade...incase your wondering )

 

[BurningRubber]

Too much money man...

 

[Kilgore Trout]

Not very pennywise...

Anyways now you will be able to impress random people at the track, dairy queen, and on the internet so its definitely worth it

 

[san~man]

35G's....

 

[BennyBlown2v]

lmao 35k and it doesn't address the transmission...at all? You're gonna have to have all the machine work done on the block too, so thats even more. That's a pretty stupid kit.

 

[CENTENNIALSTANG]

 

[Dope 97GT]

so i am still confused...is that 32k just for the kit? or do you get a sti too?