I have a carb'd car, that ill only be driving in the summer. I took that heater tube thingy off the car, and wondered if i can just cap off the heater core, run the bypass line from the water pump to the thermostat housing and block off the other hole in the water pump. does anyone see anything wrong with that?
Bypassing my heater core
- Thread starter Busted07
- Start date
wht87gt
Member
I don't see why that would be a problem. I had mine capped off for a while after one of the small heater core hoses at the back of the motor split wide open, and I didn't have any issues running like that.
Was yours a stock pump? I have an edelbrock that has a female fitting on it, and if i can just block it off, ill need to figure out where to get the cap from... heres a picture so you can see what i mean...
View attachment 399811
wht87gt
Member
Well, I'm fuel injected so I have the metal tube that runs down the pass side of the lower intake. I'm also running a stock water pump, but it looks roughly the same. So all I did was got some rubber caps from the HELP section at AutoZone and capped off the ends of the metal tube. I don't see why you can't just do the same but right at the water pump. Or maybe you can just get some threaded plugs and take those female ends right out of the pump. It might look at little better also. Hope this helps.
It does help, and i appreciate it. That female thing is just threaded in there, so im guessing that as long as i can find a cap the same size, i should be good to go. i just wanted to make sure i wasnt overlooking anything with capping the one off.
wht87gt
Member
depends on the intake but my stealth had a threaded spot on almost the same, identical place than my efi manifold had on it
By the way , are you removing the heater core also?
wht87gt
Member
BK_CAULEY
it's built for speed not longevity, woman
depends on the intake but my stealth had a threaded spot on almost the same, identical place than my efi manifold had on it
By the way , are you removing the heater core also?
The intake i have is an air gap. it has 2 holes in the back (one where the back runner is, and one right under where the carb is sitting. The water temp sensor is at the very front of this intake, and im scared the temp gauge i got isnt long enough to reach that hole, but i dont see anywhere else i can put it.
As far as removing the heater core... I wasnt going to, because im scared to touch the dash. I hate anything small and intricate, and i know ill break stuff if i try to take the dash out. I figure it would be a pain in the ass since the car came with a/c originally so i would have to take the whole dash out to get the heater core out.
Are you taling about the stock fuel lines? The stock fuel lines are getting taken out hopefully this weekend. Im running 3/8 braided from the tank to the carb...
So, ya finally saw that in your thread, huh?
wht87gt
Member
No, I was referring to the return line from the heater core. Where does that go on a carb'd intake? I was thinking that you MIGHT have to block that off also?
i see what you mean... but honestly.. i have no idea... there are only 3 tapped holes on my intake.. one is for the water temp sensor, and the other 2 are in the intake tract, so it couldnt go there... thats a good question man, i have no damn clue.... maybe one line goes from the water pump to the heater core, then the other line goes to that second port on the water pump instead of using a bypass style thermostat housing???
and the weight you save would be more than you think!
wht87gt
Member
That could be it right there. So just block off both ports on the water pump and you should be golden. The only other thing I would check is for open holes in the intake that could possibly go to the water jackets.
ill check that stuff this weekend. I dont see why i would need to run the bypass hose in the first place... unless its to make sure coolant is flowing through the intake Similar threads
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