65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
YNew distributor? Not needed either, you can buy a fresh reman from your local parts house for $50, these work fine in builds thatspin up to 7000-7500 with the right valvetrain, just add an electronic conversion unit, a hot coil and good wires, it'll work just as well as a $400+ aftermarket system.
That reminds me, no one mentioned that a steel distributor gear is needed with the 5.0's roller cam. '84 Mustang GTs had carbs and roller cams, but that was the only year so those distributors are harder to find at parts stores. For the trouble and frustration I went through trying to find one, I should have just put a steel gear on my old points distributor. At least now I have a hybrid Ford Duraspark/GM HEI iginition that works really well.
I bought my 5.0 new as an engine kit for an '89 GT I had. I put the old stock engine back in when I sold it and put the built-up one in my '68. I found out just how much of a bottleneck the stock EFI intake was when I put the 650 pumper and single plane on there.

By the way, part of the problem I have with that Car Craft article is that they measured gross horsepower. Carmakers haven't used that method since the mid '70s and it does give inflated numbers. They also baselined with a carb and intake that flows better than the stock EFI parts, not to mention longtube headers instead of the stock 1.5" shorties. If they had all that stuff on there and then put the AFRs on, you sure as hell wouldn't be seeing 100hp gains nor 405fwhp. They make it sound like AFRs are the magic power bullet when in fact their test engine already had everything BUT the heads.

Many times the power potential is there in an engine, but the combo is poorly chosen and haphazardly assembled.
