Today I took my car to have the upper control arm bushings replaced and they called me to give me some bad news. It ended up that the upper control arm is in bad condition so I have to look and order new ones so they can replace it. So I have to look around to see where I can find them and hopefully it wont take long for them to come in. More bad news is that I bought the bushing set about 3 months ago and I bought the ball joints around on Febuary. Now I have to find the whole complete upper control arm, and I will have some parts left over that I have to pay for again. (sorry I'm a little disapointed.) I was thinking of doing the shelby drop since they are going to take everything off again. What do you guys think? Also what do I have to do I've read about it before, but I don't remember everything at the moment. Do I just have to measure and drill new holes? Then use those new holes instead of the old ones? Also I want to lower the car a little I was thinking of cutting half a turn on the springs. Does anybody have an idea of how much it would probably lower. I want to lower it about 1"-2". My springs are the original for a 200cid. don't know if that matters. How much does the shelby drop actually lower the car? or is it just for handling and performance? Thanks.
Should I do the shelby drop?
- Thread starter guybored
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zookeeper
Founding Member
I would do it agaain in a second. I measuerd before and after and the one inch A-arm drop gave me a 3/4" drop at the fender, but it made a world of difference in the way the car drives.
Keep in mind, lowering the UCA 1" doesn't drop the front end 1"
Although the upper control arms are lowered one inch when you perform the Arning drop, your Mustang's ride height will not sit one inch lower in the front. I noticed about 1/2” drop or less on my '65 Mustang from the drop after the suspension settled, and I have heard of ride height changes between ¼” and 5/8” by others who have done this modification. The reason this does not lower the car a full 1” is that ride height is determined by the spring and shock and the relative height where the spring and shock attach to the UCA. The ball joint end of the UCA rests at a fixed height to the road and the spring assembly is, of course, positioned in the middle of the UCA between the fixed ball joint end and the lowered end. Since the height of the UCA relative to the road remains the same on one end and changes on the other, the actual drop of the car is somewhere between the two changes of 0” and 1”. So, the drop is less than 1”.
Although the upper control arms are lowered one inch when you perform the Arning drop, your Mustang's ride height will not sit one inch lower in the front. I noticed about 1/2” drop or less on my '65 Mustang from the drop after the suspension settled, and I have heard of ride height changes between ¼” and 5/8” by others who have done this modification. The reason this does not lower the car a full 1” is that ride height is determined by the spring and shock and the relative height where the spring and shock attach to the UCA. The ball joint end of the UCA rests at a fixed height to the road and the spring assembly is, of course, positioned in the middle of the UCA between the fixed ball joint end and the lowered end. Since the height of the UCA relative to the road remains the same on one end and changes on the other, the actual drop of the car is somewhere between the two changes of 0” and 1”. So, the drop is less than 1”.
jb1dsl
Member
SadbutTrue
Founding Member
Right after doing it, I noted a slight difference. Car definitely cornered flatter.
However, I now pay about 2-3 times as much for an alignment and it isn't a particularly big difference. It also can't help tire wear, and there is potential issue for ball joint life concerns down the road. I don't exactly regret it, but I'm not sure I'd do it again if I got a new classic mustang down the road.
Tubo(2-bo)
Member
Yes Definately!! Way big difference in handling.
Though you may already have it: Here's a compleat how to, DazeCars, Shelby Drop, Klaus Arning drop, upper control arm drop, Falcon, Mustang, Cougar 60-70 With the most important Alignment specifications.
My old time alignment guy wouldent use these specs till I promised to "Pay for the second alignment, that was going to be needed". Just be firm in using these alignment specs(i included, no road crown allowance.
(copied from above link)
These specifications are in order of importance.
1. NO more than .25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.
2. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster.
NOTE: for cars with Adjustable strut rods. Please attain as much caster as possible using the shims (at least 1.5 to 2.0 degrees), and then use the adjustable strut rods to increase the caster and make the sides the same. Also, please note that the caster difference between the driver’s side and passenger’s side needs to have no more .25 degrees difference prior to the adjustment of the strut rods.
3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver’s side to passenger’s side to account for the crown in the road.
4. 1/16" to 1/8” toe in
If you run into any problems attaining these specs, please call me (your phone number here).
Though you may already have it: Here's a compleat how to, DazeCars, Shelby Drop, Klaus Arning drop, upper control arm drop, Falcon, Mustang, Cougar 60-70 With the most important Alignment specifications.
My old time alignment guy wouldent use these specs till I promised to "Pay for the second alignment, that was going to be needed". Just be firm in using these alignment specs(i included, no road crown allowance.
(copied from above link)
These specifications are in order of importance.
1. NO more than .25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.
2. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster.
NOTE: for cars with Adjustable strut rods. Please attain as much caster as possible using the shims (at least 1.5 to 2.0 degrees), and then use the adjustable strut rods to increase the caster and make the sides the same. Also, please note that the caster difference between the driver’s side and passenger’s side needs to have no more .25 degrees difference prior to the adjustment of the strut rods.
3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver’s side to passenger’s side to account for the crown in the road.
4. 1/16" to 1/8” toe in
If you run into any problems attaining these specs, please call me (your phone number here).
Thanks to all your response. After reading and thinking I decided to do the drop. I still have to wait till thursday to have my control arms in and I am thinking of waiting till Saturday to have everything fixed. Since that is the only day I can have to be there and see how they do everything. Plus I am going to have them fix a little rust that is there and since everything will be off it will be easier for them to fix it. 
Might as well take care of it then and there. I have lifetime alignment at firestone so hopefully it won't be much hassle with them last time I had it alligned i took some spec that work better and they didn't give me much hassle just told me that they weren't liable if they tire wore uneven I told them that I was aware of that and that they had nothing to worry about. If I still have a high stance I'm thinking I could probably cut half a spring or maybe it will lover more whenever I happen to get a 5.0 in there. right now it has a 200 cid. This is my car I think it sits a little to high all around what do you think?
Might as well take care of it then and there. I have lifetime alignment at firestone so hopefully it won't be much hassle with them last time I had it alligned i took some spec that work better and they didn't give me much hassle just told me that they weren't liable if they tire wore uneven I told them that I was aware of that and that they had nothing to worry about. If I still have a high stance I'm thinking I could probably cut half a spring or maybe it will lover more whenever I happen to get a 5.0 in there. right now it has a 200 cid. This is my car I think it sits a little to high all around what do you think?
zookeeper
Founding Member
Tubo(2-bo)
Member
.... thinking I could probably cut half a spring or maybe it will lover more whenever I happen to get a 5.0 in there. right now it has a 200 cid. ....
You'll want to use V-8 springs with the new engine, but when you're trimming the springs keep the cuts down to 1/2 coil or less till you get close. and remember the car is likely to "settle" after little road time.
sorry could you clear it up a little more don't quite understand you don't know if it is cuz I just got out of work and I'm a little tired
. The rear fenders are rolled and I'm going to do the same to the front once I get it home or at the shop. It's been there since saturday because of the control arms. I thought about the tire being too tall but since the fender already cut into it I doubt they will change them to a smaller size. the manager at the store told me he would change them if i didn't like them but now being cut i don't think he will. It rubbed on the fender up front when I gave a tight turn but I pulled the fender a little out and hammered the peice that would hit the tire. thanks to all your information guys.Similar threads
