What supercharger to get?

He might as well do gears. Who has stock gears in a built Mustang anymore? (Besides GT500 and 03-04 Cobra guys) They don't need gears...haha

Nope...and did you notice they're both running positive displacement superchargers (which the Kenne Bell is) under thier hoods? Point proven! :D

I went to 3.73's in my car and to be honest, I liked my stock 3.27's better. If I end up keeping it, I'll probably switch them back and let the torque do its job.
 
Ok i will change gears im not afraid to do that....LOL...Hell i have a 100 shot on my Magnum SRT-8 and that runs great even tho people were afraid to do that in the begining too...lol....Gears i'll do...torque convertor i'll do shift kit i'll do i'll even have the trans built up...Where can i read about the Kenne Bell supercharger? what price range are they in?
 
Ok i will change gears im not afraid to do that....LOL...Hell i have a 100 shot on my Magnum SRT-8 and that runs great even tho people were afraid to do that in the begining too...lol....Gears i'll do...torque convertor i'll do shift kit i'll do i'll even have the trans built up...Where can i read about the Kenne Bell supercharger? what price range are they in?

Here's the info about the Kenne Bell. Mustang 5.0 Supercharger

Although at this point, based on your responses you seem set on going with a centrifugal?

Keep in mind though, a gear change and a converter swap aren't essential to great performance with this kit the way they are with a Centrifugal at this point. Just food for though.
 
Im at work so i couldnt really research the Kenne bell from what i read i love it...were can i get one what is involed.. on installing this..I really think is cool ...how much boost does this make?
 
Im at work so i couldnt really research the Kenne bell from what i read i love it...were can i get one what is involed.. on installing this..I really think is cool ...how much boost does this make?

1) You can buy them directly from Kenne Bell
2) Installation is fairly strait forward. Depending if you choose to stick with the stock intake manifold, or go with an aftermarket lower the physical installation is nothing more than an intake change, the addition of some front bracketry and some wiring. About the same as any Centrifugal, but instead of punching the oil pan and routing feed lines you're replacing the upper intake manifold.
3) The base kit is good for 6-9psi, but like any blower can be pullied for whatever you want. Remember, boost is only a measurement of restriction, so only interpret boost numbers as a rough guide to your projected performance level. Kenne Bell states that the 2.1L is rated for 850hp, but don't believe that for a second. 650hp is probably the most you would ever see out of that thing no matter how hard you pushed it and that's with all supporting components and water methanol injection. You should be able to run it in the 350-425hp rage very comfortably though.
 
WAIT ONE MINUTE! I think we've overlooked the fact that he has a carbuerated engine. You can't run a KenneBell on a carbuerated engine unless you're also going to swith to fuel injection and a ECM.

With a carbuerated engine you could do a Positive Displacement supercharger by Weiand or Whipple, but IMO I hate how they 'surge' on carbuerated cars. Now you can also get a Paxton or Vortech centrifical supercharger that will mount and bolt up to your carbuerated intake setup.
 
:doh: After all that, I didn't even notice he wasn't EFI?!?

Still doable, but a lot more costly now because he would need to covert to EFI. Othewise, I guess he could go with the Holley/Weiand set up, but I'm not a fan of the old strait cut Eatons, so I would now lean towards a centrifugal personally, but I would just it up and go with a gear and converter upgrade too.
 
My 0.02...

If I was going to throw boost on a 5.0, I would NEVER look at a Kenne Bell, but thats just me...

Now, for the OPs specific wants/needs, the Kenne Bell might not be terrible, and might even be the best bet, it just seems really limited on the 5.0 motor, and after all, I think everyone gets to a point they want more power and to go faster.
 
My 0.02...

If I was going to throw boost on a 5.0, I would NEVER look at a Kenne Bell, but thats just me...

Now, for the OPs specific wants/needs, the Kenne Bell might not be terrible, and might even be the best bet, it just seems really limited on the 5.0 motor, and after all, I think everyone gets to a point they want more power and to go faster.


What blower would you use? Im not tearing into the motor until i have to...like a blown motor or something like that......So i was thinking boost for now....
 
I would probably get an S trim, with 10+ psi like stated before. Sure it wont have the grunt down low, but fox bodies spin their tires on call anyway, and with a KB its going to happen even more. At least with a centrifugal you have similar bottom end (which isnt bad) and then it yanks up top.
 
My 0.02...

If I was going to throw boost on a 5.0, I would NEVER look at a Kenne Bell, but thats just me....
I hear what you're saying, but you never really gave a reason why? :shrug:

I know plenty of guys with them that are really happy. Sure, when you push them hard you might see their limitations without an intercooler/aftercooler, but the same can also be said for an S-Trim. Either way, they're still more than capable of pushing that now high-15-second '93 Covertible he's getting into the low-13/high-12 second zone with little motivation.

Sure it wont have the grunt down low, but fox bodies spin their tires on call anyway, and with a KB its going to happen even more.
You've obviously never driven a fully dressed, automatic GT convertible? unless you've got something between those wheels and the pavement like sand, water or ice, there's no spinning, or low end torque to be had what so ever. :D
 
I know plenty of guys with them that are really happy. Sure, when you push them hard you might see their limitations without an intercooler/aftercooler, but the same can also be said for an S-Trim. Either way, they're still more than capable of pushing that now high-15-second '93 Covertible he's getting into the low-13/high-12 second zone with little motivation.


I Called Kenne Bell today when i got home they said on a stock 5.0 it will put down 300 RWHP....and there kit is complete...He said the boost will be instant like at 2000 rpms...That should move this land barge no?...lol..Are they hard to put on looks pretty easy in the pictures...Are they loud? I have a 3 inch cowl hood too but he said it bolts right up under the stock hood....So if i bolt this on and do a set of gears and do some work to the trans will it run decent?....Oh yeah there $3099 plus shipping...little exspensive but probbaly worth it..he did say the kit is complete with FMU everything you need to bolt it up...
 
I would say 300hp par for the course with the base kit and no other mods. This is what you can expect with any of the base Centrifugal kits as well. Pulleying it for additional airflow and adding further breathing modifications (exhaust, intake, heads, etc) later on down the road will yield better results.

Kenne Bell supplies VERY detailed instructions with all of their kits and anyone with moderate automotive knowledge shouldn't have an issue installing it in the driveway over a weekend. Your best bet would be to get a couple of your wrench-head buddies together, with a case of beer and a couple of pizza's early one Saturday morning and go to it.

The kits themselves are nearly silent. You'll most certainly hear an increased rush of air entering the inlet side when you put your foot into it, but otherwise it's fairly quiet.

For starters, I would bolt up the kit alone and perhaps just address the transmission for now. A decent shift kit and a transmission cooler should be your first priorities. Leave the rear gears alone for the time being to see how you like it. Like I said before, a lower (numerically) gear set isn't mandatory for good performance with a Positive Displacement blower like it is with a Centrifugal. You may find yourself happy with the stock gears and as such will save yourself several hundred dollars for their purchase and install that you can put towards something else in the future. Like say a set of heads that’ll really wake things up!!!

If it were my money and you already planned on swapping intakes, I would get the kit designed for the GT40 lower and buy the matching lower intake manifold for it. That way, if you do choose to upgrade the heads later on down the road, you’ve now got an intake with competent breathing capabilities to match them to. You can save a little money now by going with the standard intake design, but later on if you choose to upgrade the rest of the engine, the lower intake is going to serve as the bottle neck of the combination.
 
I would say 300hp par for the course with the base kit and no other mods. This is what you can expect with any of the base Centrifugal kits as well. Pulleying it for additional airflow and adding further breathing modifications (exhaust, intake, heads, etc) later on down the road will yield better results.

Kenne Bell supplies VERY detailed instructions with all of their kits and anyone with moderate automotive knowledge shouldn't have an issue installing it in the driveway over a weekend. Your best bet would be to get a couple of your wrench-head buddies together, with a case of beer and a couple of pizza's early one Saturday morning and go to it.

The kits themselves are nearly silent. You'll most certainly hear an increased rush of air entering the inlet side when you put your foot into it, but otherwise it's fairly quiet.

For starters, I would bolt up the kit alone and perhaps just address the transmission for now. A decent shift kit and a transmission cooler should be your first priorities. Leave the rear gears alone for the time being to see how you like it. Like I said before, a lower (numerically) gear set isn't mandatory for good performance with a Positive Displacement blower like it is with a Centrifugal. You may find yourself happy with the stock gears and as such will save yourself several hundred dollars for their purchase and install that you can put towards something else in the future. Like say a set of heads that’ll really wake things up!!!

If it were my money and you already planned on swapping intakes, I would get the kit designed for the GT40 lower and buy the matching lower intake manifold for it. That way, if you do choose to upgrade the heads later on down the road, you’ve now got an intake with competent breathing capabilities to match them to. You can save a little money now by going with the standard intake design, but later on if you choose to upgrade the rest of the engine, the lower intake is going to serve as the bottle neck of the combination.



Thanks for all you help and info...:nice:..It looks like a nice winter project..I will do the KB blower a shift kit,trans cooler...Cold air intake...and i already have an Off road H-pipe and Flowmaster Cat back...so maybe a set of shorties might help?...As far as the intake i would just need to go the GT40 lower right?.....Do you think i can get into the 12's or will i still be short?..like low 13's.....
 
Thanks for all you help and info...:nice:..It looks like a nice winter project..I will do the KB blower a shift kit,trans cooler...Cold air intake...and i already have an Off road H-pipe and Flowmaster Cat back...so maybe a set of shorties might help?...As far as the intake i would just need to go the GT40 lower right?.....Do you think i can get into the 12's or will i still be short?..like low 13's.....

Speaking from personal experience....if you're going to save up for headers, go with a set of long tubes and just have your current mid-pipe modified to work. Shorties really provide next to no horsepower improvement. Their main focus is lower over all cost and ease of installation. A set of long tube might be a little more involved to install and a little more pricey initially, but the gains (especially when coupled with a supercharger) are well worth it. Shorty headers may only net you in the 2-4hp range in N/A trim and 5-7hp when coupled with the blower. Long tubes on the other hand might gain you 10-15hp in a N/A engine and as much as 30hp with a blown configuration.

With regards to the intake yes...the GT40 or Cobra lower is what you'll want. Just make sure you specify that, that is what you have when ordering your blower.

I'm not going to lie to you.....getting into the 12's with the base 6psi set up is going to be tight, but it's doable with decent traction, an aggressive shift kit and a couple of suspension mods. But remember, once you've opened things up on the intake and exhaust side, you'll put yourself in a better position to pulley the blower for more power. Once the engine has the ability to breath more efficiently, boost pressure and heat should both drop allowing you to play with pulley configurations for more boost. The rough rule of thumb with these screw compressors tends to be 14hp for each additional pound of boost. So once you've got the engine breathing properly, pulley it for a much boost as pump gas will allow and cutting mid-12's will be easy as pie. Start getting more aggressive with the mods and add some race gas to the take and increase blower speed a little more still and high-11's aren't out of the question. :nice:

....but just remember you're still driving a convertible, so plan on getting kicked off the track if you don't have the necessary safety equipment at that point. ;)

You'll eventually get to a point where you'll need to abandon the FMU and the stock injectors in favour of a dedicated computer chip tune, but you're still a ways from that.

If you're going to save up for anything at that point, I would suggest it be for a good dyno tune.
 
have you thought about a turbo kit? ive driven all three forms of forced induction, i had a novi 2000 on my old 302, i drive with a positive displacement blower every day, and ive been in a few turbo cars.

and if i had to choose one, i'd say TURBO IT! there is nothing like a turbo car, they make the peak tq of a positive displacement blower and have the top end charge of a centrifugal blower. and i know that there is someone thats gonna say turbos are laggy... but if you size the turbo out right you can be making full boost by 3000 rpms and it will make power till redline, not to mention that upping the power level is as simple as a new tune and a boost controller away...
 
have you thought about a turbo kit? ive driven all three forms of forced induction, i had a novi 2000 on my old 302, i drive with a positive displacement blower every day, and ive been in a few turbo cars.

and if i had to choose one, i'd say TURBO IT! there is nothing like a turbo car, they make the peak tq of a positive displacement blower and have the top end charge of a centrifugal blower. and i know that there is someone thats gonna say turbos are laggy... but if you size the turbo out right you can be making full boost by 3000 rpms and it will make power till redline, not to mention that upping the power level is as simple as a new tune and a boost controller away...

The problem is, is that more often than not they makes no torque below 3,000RPM at which point it then hits like a sledge hammer! Just because they make the same (and even better in most cases) peek torque as a Positive Displacement blower, doesn’t mean they’re going to have as nice of a power band. ;)

I love the idea of having a single/twin turbo set up for making ultimate horsepower, but I hate the short, abrupt and often violent power band that’s associated with them when they do come on. Yes you can soften them up some so they don't hit so hard, but not without making them lazy down low and bringing back that "lag" we all hate.

I'm not saying turbo cars can't be decent daily drivers, but positive displacement blown cars make better ones.

Now....if you were talking compound boost with dual power adders, then I'd be all over it, but that's gonna get pricey. :D