UPDATED: Compression test

UTGAMER

New Member
Feb 26, 2010
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Dalton, GA
I dont know if I was supposed to do it in a certain order, or not? And Im not sure if this is the right way the cylinders go for you to understand which is which cylinder, but Ill try. If Im reading it right according to Haynes

Cylinder#1 is passenger side farthest away from firewall then 2, 3, 4. 4 being passenger side at the fire wall
Then cylinder#5 is drivers side farthest from firewall then 6, 7, 8. 8 being at firewall

CORRECT?

I did these with cold engine, WOT AND NO CERTAIN ORDER, if it matters?? I did not add any oil. I will try again tomorrow in the day light maybe not raining in a certain order wet and dry

I also was doing this alone so I couldnt see the valve on each turn over until I was done. I read your supposed to see how each stroke compressions strength is building. If it starts weak and builds up

(LOW COMPRESSION ON 1ST STROKE, FOLLOWED BY GRADUALLY INCREASING PRESSURE ON SUCCESSIVE STROKES INDICATES WORN PISTONS RINGS. A LOW COMPRESSION ON FIRST STROKE WHICH DOES NOT BUILD UP DURING SUCCESSIVE STROKES INDICATES LEAKING VALVES, OR A BLOWN HEAD GASKET, OR A CRACKED HEAD)



#1 was 130 psi
#2 was 130 psi
#3 was 125 psi
#4 was 130 psi
#5 was still at 65
#6 was 125
#7 was 125
#8 was 110, but it may have been b/c I couldn't really get the hose on the adapter very good. ALSO I think this drained my battery. HAynes says to do if for 4 strokes. I let it do it a for maybe 10 secs lol I read it online in a how to manual on porches

edit:says I should have a leak down test done if pressure is way down or varies greatly between cylinders.


So would 130 125 and the 110 be great difference in these? I know that cylinder 5 is, which could be a bad exhaust valve? Which is a valve in engine, or EGR?
 
Redo 5's test but wet this time. See what happens.

You know you have an issue but it would be nice to have a clue what happened first.

Might pull the VC and inspect what you can.
 
So would 130 125 and the 110 be great difference in these? I know that cylinder 5 is, which could be a bad exhaust valve? Which is a valve in engine, or EGR?

in an undamaged motor you would expect to see no more than 10 psi varience between any two cylinders, say for example the lowest were 120 and the highest being 130, that would be acceptable. 110 to 130 is too much, and there is an issue there, but the 65# is definetly and issue. Like Hissin said, recheck wet and report back!
 
Would any of this cause it not to idle? I want to say its the TPS, but I cant change it b/c the screws are stripped then I got a reverse drillbit and it broke in the screw. Also the smoke seems to only come of tail pipes when it revs over 2000rpm, but smoke is always comin from dipstick tube and TB/CAI area. And there is more blowby than before coming out of oil fill cap and smoke

And no bubbles in rad cap. It started to want to boil over so put cap back on

guess Im gonna have to take it to shop. Roughly I should expect to pay? 1000 or so. I cant afford that
 
Would any of this cause it not to idle? I want to say its the TPS, but I cant change it b/c the screws are stripped then I got a reverse drillbit and it broke in the screw. Also the smoke seems to only come of tail pipes when it revs over 2000rpm, but smoke is always comin from dipstick tube and TB/CAI area. And there is more blowby than before coming out of oil fill cap and smoke

And no bubbles in rad cap. It started to want to boil over so put cap back on

guess Im gonna have to take it to shop. Roughly I should expect to pay? 1000 or so. I cant afford that

Obviously you have something bad in that cyl and the car is running poorly because of it.

Your at the point where you should take it to a shop...:dead: