1990 GT, R block stroker, PTK, 88mm Turbonetics, Street Car Build
- Thread starter 1991notchbackLX
- Start date
It's funny, the PTK kit has a T6 flange. I have room to grow, haha. I've actually been thinking about an 88mm more and more lately. This car will be stick, though. I can't drive an automatic Mustang. Granted, the C4 backed Termi motor I had was literally insane. But, I just have to bang some gears. Call me crazy.
I got the shortblock and turbo kit tonight. Heads are next, then turbo. I'm thinking of going with a super victor and a CSU blow thru carb now as well. The car is already set up for it and guys are making silly power with them all over the forums. Can you speak to how much power these R blocks can handle? I know you have one in your coupe. Thanks Jeff.
just buy my car and beat on it, probably cheaper and faster in the end, and you'll own another mustang
you could have bought my dart setup i would have hooked you up
you could have bought my dart setup i would have hooked you up
the other 25% of the fun is trading it away for old chevy hot rods 
sorry had to.
looks like you have another huge project going, I know how it is
sorry had to.
looks like you have another huge project going, I know how it is
Haha, I'll let that slide because I still owe you for telling me the most coveted secret of the fox body black interior swap...
But yeah, this project is going to be a big one. It will undoubtedly be the fastest and stupidest car I've ever owned.
But yeah, this project is going to be a big one. It will undoubtedly be the fastest and stupidest car I've ever owned.
Heeeey, thanks for picking my stuff up for me. I'll be around the house Saturday morning, so you can drop it off then.
Seriously, though, you better hold onto this one long enough to finish it. This has the makings to be epic!
Good luck getting a stick to hold that kind of power. Not saying it cant be done, but its gonna be alot of work. I think for the street an F1C or R procharger would be a better match for the stick.
Ive heard that the R block is good for around 2000hp. Dont know if thats accurate, but ive seen one claim of 2500. I know it will take 1500 all day.
Ive heard that the R block is good for around 2000hp. Dont know if thats accurate, but ive seen one claim of 2500. I know it will take 1500 all day.
The car will most likely be tuned for low boost on the street, with a conservative horsepower goal of 700 to the tire. I should be able to find a trans/clutch combo to hold that number. That shouldn't be difficult considering I just scored a T6 Y2K88 Turbonetics 88mm with F trim impeller, .96 a/r and a billet backing plate on ebay for a price so good I should be arrested. Project Recession Buster strikes again.
I'm just rethinking my decision on heads. Narrowed down to TW CNC 205's or AFR CNC 225's. Which way would you go?
I am partial to the TW CNC 205s. You can find a clutch to hold that power easily, but its going to be very agressive and chances are the clutch will be stronger than the transmission, so you may have problems keeping the strongest TKO together.
What size bore is your block? I believe the AFR 225s are actually intended for 4.125" bore and up.
I know different people have different opinions, but I've never been very impressed with any of the AFR heads flow numbers, including the 225s. The TW 205 has less valve and roughly the same cross section, yet most flow bench results I've seen puts the TW 205 right around the AFR 225 or even better (on the intake side). I also like the TW over the AFR because it has stock exhaust port location.
I'm also admittedly a Trick Flow nut swinger.
Either head is going to make stupid power in that application, though.
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