I bet! Those are a little harder to come by, aren't they?
If what you see are cracks, you'll probably want to do at least a small repair with an epoxy type system.
Are you sure they just aren't stretch marks?
Paint and Body Fox Body Painting 101
- Thread starter Davedacarpainter
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If what you see are cracks, you'll probably want to do at least a small repair with an epoxy type system.
Are you sure they just aren't stretch marks?
@Davedacarpainter I just sprayed a coat of epoxy over my mud work last night, and it really needs a coat (several probably) of high build. I'm thinking of spraying it while I'm still in my 7 day recoat window, blocking it, and then sealing it with epoxy again so I can work on other stuff for a couple months without worrying about the high build wicking up moisture/oil/cleaners/etc. Repeat process for each section of the car. Then after the rest of the car is stripped/primed/etc I'll scuff up that sealer coat, spray a fresh thinned epoxy coat/sealer and then color and clear over the whole thing at once.
Does this sound like a reasonable plan of action? If so, how fine do I take the high build? 400-600? And then sand the first sealer coat the same?
Does this sound like a reasonable plan of action? If so, how fine do I take the high build? 400-600? And then sand the first sealer coat the same?
If it will only be a couple months till you get back on the panel you won't need to spray anything over the primer.
Primer is pourous compared to a top coat, but unless you're going to be daily driving it during the process, it won't really be an issue.
I would wait to block everything out till you're finished. Allowing the primer to set and shrink up is a good thing and will mean less dye back in your finished paint job. Of course I'm meaning the final primer if you intend to block it and reprimer.
The sealer over the top is just more material on your panels and it really won't be any more durable than the primer itself.
If you intend to use sealer during the actual painting process, 400 grit would be fine. You could go finer though, it isn't any problem.
Primer is pourous compared to a top coat, but unless you're going to be daily driving it during the process, it won't really be an issue.
I would wait to block everything out till you're finished. Allowing the primer to set and shrink up is a good thing and will mean less dye back in your finished paint job. Of course I'm meaning the final primer if you intend to block it and reprimer.
The sealer over the top is just more material on your panels and it really won't be any more durable than the primer itself.
If you intend to use sealer during the actual painting process, 400 grit would be fine. You could go finer though, it isn't any problem.
i honestly don't know how long it will actually be before color (which i still have to choose, may pm you later about that). it may just be a couple months, might take till fall, or (hopefully not) maybe next spring or summer. want to mock up the suspension, engine, and trans before color coat for sure. funding is an issue, and i still need a back bumper, maybe smaller/bigger hood (would love to be able to fit a stock height glass hood over the beast, may not have clearance though) and want to try to find an oe front end (front bumper and passenger fender are aftermarket and you can tell, drivers side fender has a sizeable dent).
is having blend problems painting panels at different times just a problem thats in my head, or is it enough to just make sure it's all from the same batch?
is having blend problems painting panels at different times just a problem thats in my head, or is it enough to just make sure it's all from the same batch?
The only problems you could have with the color match would be from not remembering how you had your gun set up and possibly the clear coat yellowing. Value line clears have a tendency to yellow a bit after some time.
Assuming you have enough base left over to spray the entire job that is.
Attachments
It's hard to tell from the photos if those are cracks or stretch marks. Bend the plastic in that area and see if it separates in the crack areas or just stretches.
Let me know, ok?
@davedapainter, Most of them did not show up until I media blasted the bumper. I'm jumping on plane this afternoon, but should be able to do that this Friday or Saturday. I appreciate your help on this and the advice you've given to the others. Nice to know there's someone we can get good advice on, instead of opinions.
Jim
Jim
Sure Jim, if you ever need to talk through any repairs, PM me and I'll call you so we can talk through it.
Small stuff, yes. Not for anything that really needs filling, like bondo.Is this primer ok to use for small repair areas- like wheel wells etc?
It would be ok except for the filling needs. If it's in a rattle can, it'll shrink up horribly.
Years ago when all we had was laquer primer, we would let the vehicle set for a month afterwards to be sure it finished drying. This is of course for a restoration in the seventies thing.
Your mustang is black (sort of) Chris. It'll show everything that isn't right. Get a decent primer that is two part.
If you're just using it to keep moisture out, then it's ok for a short period of time.
It isn't durable.
Ok, it's not a foxbody and it's just kinda like painting
I am stripping the bed liner type material off the bed of my wheel lift, it's diamond plate, the material was peeling off and has surface rust, it was not primed just rolled on to bare metal.
After I clean the surface rust do you suggest etching primer before I reapply the bed liner stuff?
I am stripping the bed liner type material off the bed of my wheel lift, it's diamond plate, the material was peeling off and has surface rust, it was not primed just rolled on to bare metal.
After I clean the surface rust do you suggest etching primer before I reapply the bed liner stuff?
Read what the liner says about this. Some play well with an acid etch, some don't because the acid in the etch will eat into their product and damage it.
If they tell you not to use it, dont. Use an epoxy primer. It will adhere to bare metal.
Thanks, have not picked what brand I will be working with yet, the coating was put on bare metal.
After our original talk about the possibility of my car being 'Red' with a lot of 'Black' over it. I investigated ..
The original owner said it was black straight from the factory. A passenger door,fender and hood replacement led to a complete respray-and the goofy/ugly red lettering on the fenders
So there
lolDave what would be a good 2 part primer that I could use,ideally-I'll need a lot of it-so shelve life might come into play lol
After our original talk about the possibility of my car being 'Red' with a lot of 'Black' over it. I investigated ..
The original owner said it was black straight from the factory. A passenger door,fender and hood replacement led to a complete respray-and the goofy/ugly red lettering on the fenders
So there
Dave what would be a good 2 part primer that I could use,ideally-I'll need a lot of it-so shelve life might come into play lol
You can probably get a decent urethane 2k primer from summit. If you want to go high dollar, Sikkens has a fantastic primer, Sherwin Williams primer is pretty dang good too.
Shelf life of most urethane products will be roughly two years if you don't let it get too hot (90*^) or two cold (32*v).
I've seen guys use these pads for sanding corners where the primer is thinner so they don't cut through it. This is a big no no? Suggests for sanding these areas?
Hey Jon.
A finer grit sandpaper by hand on corners and sharp edges. This is assuming the primered area has been blocked already to your satisfaction.
Depending on what your next step is in the refinishing process is as well. If you'll be sealing the area, 400 will work, 500-600 if your not and it's a solid. 800 if your not sealing and it's a pearl or metallic.
Scotchbrites won't flatten out the orange peel of the primer effectively at all. It does somewhat and it will feel like it has by hand, but from experience it doesn't.
Any orange peel you leave from the prepping stage will just compound the level of orange peel in your final finish.
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