Questions For 351w Swapped Into Foxbody

ConnorQ10

Active User
Oct 30, 2017
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Hey guys, I have a chance to get my hands on a 72' 351w block bored .30. The block is bare and I'm wondering on what is the best rotating assembly, pistons, rods, bearings, crank etc. for being able to make 450-500 rwhp to be able to fit the block? Thanks for any answers and opened to advice on this build. Also the car is going to be mostly street and show but the odd run down the strip.
 
Welcome to Stangnet Connor.

I'll move your thread to our fox general talk subforum, you'll get a bunch of the guys to chime in there.

Show us a picture as your mustang sits, we love pictures here.

It's good to have you with us brother.
 
408 will get you to your goals.
Scat makes a good/reasonable rotating assembly for a street car.
If you want to run a roller cam best bet is to go with link bar lifters and a custom grind.
Flavor of the month aluminum heads, AFR, Trick Flow etc. Need to decide if your going EFI or carb.
 
408 will get you to your goals.
Scat makes a good/reasonable rotating assembly for a street car.
If you want to run a roller cam best bet is to go with link bar lifters and a custom grind.
Flavor of the month aluminum heads, AFR, Trick Flow etc. Need to decide if your going EFI or carb.

Sweet thanks, I’ll defiantly look into that! And to go the roller route what kind of work would be involved? I know the older blocks weren’t roller. Would you recommend going roller instead of rapper? And I was thinking of going the carb route.
 
Sweet thanks, I’ll defiantly look into that! And to go the roller route what kind of work would be involved? I know the older blocks weren’t roller. Would you recommend going roller instead of rapper? And I was thinking of going the carb route.

The easiest way to run a roller in a non roller block is to use a set of link bar lifters.
You could locate a spider tray and dog bones then have the block machined to accept bolts for spider tray
but why go through all that.
I run a set of TFS link bars in my 1969 block 393w.
I think the hyd. roller would allow you to get a more custom street friendly grind.
If your starting from scratch carb would be the cheaper route, but a well tuned EFI can give you better all
around performance and drivability.
 
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Furthermore, running a flat tappet camshaft these days is a gamble with your engine. Since the EPA legislated the zinc additives out of motor oil, flat tappet camshafts have been failing in high numbers. Typically, when a cam fails, it's it a death nail for the rest of the engine.

I was so against using a FT cam in my old engine, I had a guy in Australia grind a custom roller version to fit.

You can buy certain oils that have ZDDP in them , or use an additive if you choose to run one though.

But....

Give Trump a minute.....if anybody can overturn legislation to eliminate oil additives that foul catalytic converters, and add carbon emissions to the air, it's this guy.
 
The easiest way to run a roller in a non roller block is to use a set of link bar lifters.
You could locate a spider tray and dog bones then have the block machined to accept bolts for spider tray
but why go through all that.
I run a set of TFS link bars in my 1969 block 393w.
I think the hyd. roller would allow you to get a more custom street friendly grind.
If your starting from scratch carb would be the cheaper route, but a well tuned EFI can give you better all
around performance and drivability.

Oh okay so I could just run a set of link bar lifters and not have to do any alterations to the block? Just a new roller cam that’ll work with the lifters, as well valvetrain?
 
Furthermore, running a flat tappet camshaft these days is a gamble with your engine. Since the EPA legislated the zinc additives out of motor oil, flat tappet camshafts have been failing in high numbers. Typically, when a cam fails, it's it a death nail for the rest of the engine.

I was so against using a FT cam in my old engine, I had a guy in Australia grind a custom roller version to fit.

You can buy certain oils that have ZDDP in them , or use an additive if you choose to run one though.

But....

Give Trump a minute.....if anybody can overturn legislation to eliminate oil additives that foul catalytic converters, and add carbon emissions to the air, it's this guy.

Haha yeah you’re probably right lol and so you’re saying to stay away from the flat tappet cam and Just do the work to convert to Roller
 
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It’s gonna cost you about a g for all the swap parts to do the swap. Flywheel, accessory bracket, headers, intake, oil pan. Unless you’re resourceful. I bought them all new. Just gotta get the motor built up.
 
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It’s gonna cost you about a g for all the swap parts to do the swap. Flywheel, accessory bracket, headers, intake, oil pan. Unless you’re resourceful. I bought them all new. Just gotta get the motor built up.

Yeah I figured it’s gonna cost me a little bit of $$ but I plan on slowly doing the build on the motor and try to be resourceful as much as I can! But... it’s going to be sweet when it’s finsihed!
 
Yeah I figured it’s gonna cost me a little bit of $$ but I plan on slowly doing the build on the motor and try to be resourceful as much as I can! But... it’s going to be sweet when it’s finsihed!
The toughest part is sticking with the project. It sits and it sits and you always say “I am gonna get back in that Daddywagon.” For me, I got the bug to buy another mustang because I wanted to drive a windsor/fox. Once I had it and drove it, I wanted more than ever to get my project on the road. I ended up buying more parts and more tools every payday for months. In the end I got it running and couldn’t be happier. The project isn’t done yet, but a running and driving project is a thousand times better.
 
The toughest part is sticking with the project. It sits and it sits and you always say “I am gonna get back in that Daddywagon.” For me, I got the bug to buy another mustang because I wanted to drive a windsor/fox. Once I had it and drove it, I wanted more than ever to get my project on the road. I ended up buying more parts and more tools every payday for months. In the end I got it running and couldn’t be happier. The project isn’t done yet, but a running and driving project is a thousand times better.

Yeah I’m defiantly going to have to stay committed to it! I think once I start to see the engine come together I’ll be super excited to drop it in! But I got that same bug haha I own a fairly new stang but I’ve always loved the fox’s and with a Windsor it’s just to awesome to not be my next!