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I have mad JB Welding skills. I can spread that :poo: like an artist with a TIG torch! And I bet Mad Mike's skillz are even better than mine! Oh wait, JB Weld is too expensive for me, so I use the cheap :poo: from Autozone or Harbor Freight.
 
Mike, how is the JB Weld holding up? I saw a YouTube video where it repaired a lawnmower head and it ran fine, despite the bump that tapped the piston!
I'm only using it to hold the plate on that is also bolted to the deck of the block. It's only purpose is to fill the dips and jinky doos, and bring the deck to level, to aid in sealing the oil in the engine.
 
The Tubing bends are here. I pick up my steel plate from the Metal Supermarket on Monday. It'll be my objective to get the transition adapter completely made as well. No easy task when working with cold rolled 1/4" plate. It'll mean drilling 18 large diameter holes, 6 @ 1.5", and 12 @ 1.250". Then after that, another 24 smaller holes to allow me to bolt that junk together.
I figure I'll drill overlapping hole cuts in the plate that I'll mount the TB's to, considering I have an oval hole to accommodate.(At least that's the plan v1.0)
Once the mount is all welded up, and hopefully, I can keep it from warping all to hell when I do that, I'll focus on extending the main throttle shaft. Even though the shaft material isn't hardened, its still hard enough to make drilling a bunch of centered holes a real challenge. (I just can't wait till I get to that part.):rolleyes:
I'll get the rods Tuesday...I've already got the head gasket exchanged (MLS for Composite). I've solved my header orientation issue w/o doing a redo, and I think it'll look really good. In hindsight, what started as a 200.00 re-ring job, has evolved into a full blown N/A conversion...At last count...the budget to do this is over 5 times that. Now,...I've got a completely re-sleeved block with a much thicker, .100" thick cylinder wall. (vs the .070 thick old ones ). Newly rebuilt stock forged connecting rods, as opposed to the cast units with one weird #5 rod forcing the decision to convert. A fully ported head to hopefully optimize it's potential, so as not to be the numbingly slow slug that is a stock, ford I-6. Obviously, the biggest change will be the 6 TB's in place of the single one, with the new 20 pound lighter header rounding out the change over. There will now be a machine bill..
Probably about 200-300 to swap the rods over, and put my hogged out head back together.

So,..we'll hopefully have pictures of the ITB's tomorrow night.
 
Little late to the party. Mainly because,like Steve-you think I’m an idiot-But here’s some influence for V.2.0 if by chance there is one.
7BBAB248-3697-405A-8477-4EEEDFE2A0ED.webp
C1A0EC54-4EF1-43DA-87D2-3CB3F778D3EC.webp

Im aware this one is a hard no-just thought it was cool-
0B947FC8-E9DE-49C1-B82E-2E8FF1494AB3.webp
 
The 1983-1992 Ford overhead valve (OHV) 250 x-flow intake system was largely, perhaps a 95% copy of the 1973-1988 Single Over Head Cam (OHC) 3.0 CSL, 5 ,6 and 7 series M series in line six runner six.

BMW635CSIIntakePlenumbArrangement.webp




The Bimmer used 100 mm bore spacings, and its upper runner confluence points were the same 3.937" spacings as the lower runners. With a slant six, it dind't need no stinkin space for a brake booster.

On the Aussie EFi Falcon, it was indevelopment from the 1979 Blackwood program. Early on, it was planned to use it in the Cortina, as there was still debate about what platform the EFi X-flow engine would end up in....the Fox body, the European based Cortina/Granada, or a revised X shell like the 65-73 Mustang and 75-80 Granada Monarch/ 78-80 Versallies thing reheated.Ford Australia played its cards open with its sights set on cost reduction, and the Fox chassis looked like it wouldn't cut the mustard in terms of towing 2 ton trailers, and being treated like an F150 like boat owning Aussies always do. So they engineered that 83 EFi X flow real, real tight for space. The fact that it fits anywhere is a minor miracle.


The Cortina had an air box where the brake booster was. My mate Richard removed the Heating&Ventialtion & Air Conditioning (HVAC) system, and mounted the LE-II Bosch or EECIV Ford Vane Air Meter (VAM) into that space. The fact that it all fits perfectly is proof that Bosch and Ford Australia had really been working on making the EFi X-flow fit both under the hood, and within the confines of the HVAC.

They did that by having two center spacings, the 4.08" one at the head, and the top runners about 3.40" or so at the top. That allowed the HVAC or possible Left hand drive brake booster to fit.

XEEFISCHEMATIC.webp

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/xecute/XEEFISCHEMATIC.jpg
XE Falcon Cross Flow EFi Schematic
DSC001450.webp

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/xecute/DSC001450.jpg

Australian Right Hand Drive 1977 TC Ford Cortina with Falcon Cross flow 250 alloy head and XE vane air meter

Edsell Ford II was the assistant managing Director at Ford Australia from mid 1977 to late 1980, and according to his last interview with the late David Robertson before he departed back to Michigan, there were plans affoot to use the Honda head on the US 250 and 200, so the EFI system had to fit

1. under the stock Fox hood,
2. away from the Fox Ford brake booster and clutch cable, and
3. clear of the Cortina HVAC.

It just about did all three things, although the 75 mm throttle body hole to the VAM makes it very tight in a Fox with a 250 six.....you can just fit it if it has the shallower 9.38" deck and the Australian engine mounts. The upper EFi runner is sloped to clear the hood rise.


By shear hard work and effort, it also fits the early spring tower braced X shells like Jack Collins 1966 Mustang hardtop

x-flow_250_into_66_mustang_brake_booster_clearance_002.webp

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums...to_66_mustang_brake_booster_clearance_002.jpg

x-flow_250_into_66_mustang_brake_booster_clearance_001.webp

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums...to_66_mustang_brake_booster_clearance_001.jpg

x-flow_250_into_66_mustang_brake_booster_clearance.webp

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums...0_into_66_mustang_brake_booster_clearance.jpg

For Meth Heads, the EFi even had space to fit some Meth bottles betwee the shock towers and the intake runners, like the Mike Vine Turbo EFi kits made in Queensland. The XD/XE/XF and XG Falcons from 1979 to 1999 had a 31.1" top of shock tower width between the spring towers, for a 61" front track. They had springs around them, and tilted them inwards.

For the early X shell 1965 Mustangs, its upper shocker spacings are 34-7/16", for a 55" front track,

for all 1965-1966 Stang's thats 27-3/4" top of shock to shock inner tower width

Top of shock tower width varied from
1962-1965 Fairlane, 28.0"
1963-1965 Falcon, 28-3/8"
1966-1969 Fairlane/Torino 28¾ "
1967-1970 Stang 28-3/16",
1971-1973 Stang 29-¾",
1970-1971 Torino 30½ in
1969-1977 Maverick 25"
1975-1980 Granny/Monarch/Versallies, 25" as well.

For the early 57" track Foxes, same shocker spacings are 34-7/16" width center to center, and you can measure the spring tower inner widths.

MikeVineXFEFITURBOPICTURE.webp


Sooooo, you can bunch the collectors from your six, 4.08" center Independent Throttle Bodies up and over to a lessor spacing to clear the brake booster.

Toyota had the same issues with its 20 valve 4AGE with ITB's, so it used pressed steel elipsoidale collectors to get air clear to the Throttle bodies.

visio_racers_4AGE_20_VALVE_RED_tOP_EX_dAVE_LEAR_7MINUTES40sec_toyota_corrolla_001.webp


http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums...VE_LEAR_7MINUTES40sec_toyota_corrolla_001.jpg

LVE_RED_tOP_EX_dAVE_LEAR_7MINUTES_refer_ellipsoidal_itb_stacks_from_the_2002_Toyots_corrolla_...webp

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums..._stacks_from_the_2002_Toyots_corrolla_001.jpg


Imitation is the highest form of flattery.


Turn these

LVE_RED_tOP_EX_dAVE_LEAR_7MINUTES_refer_ellipsoidal_itb_stacks_from_the_2002_Toyots_corrolla_...webp



upside down, and angle them into a 6 runner top collector at 3.4 inch centers or less, and you won't have any clearance problems.

As I say, you cannot screw this one up. There is so much good stuff to use, and many have found that the upper intake part of the Independent Throttle Body system is where the real power is to be had, and the more confined the quarters, the better the result if you realise that air can be bent.

Mike the Air Bender!

avatar_airbender_001.webp
 
Last edited:
The 1983-1992 Ford overhead valve (OHV) 250 x-flow intake system was largely, perhaps a 95% copy of the 1973-1988 Single Over Head Cam (OHC) 3.0 CSL, 5 ,6 and 7 series M series in line six runner six.

BMW635CSIIntakePlenumbArrangement.webp




The Bimmer used 100 mm bore spacings, and its upper runner confluence points were the same 3.937" spacings as the lower runners. With a slant six, it dind't need no stinkin space for a brake booster.

On the Aussie EFi Falcon, it was indevelopment from the 1979 Blackwood program. Early on, it was planned to use it in the Cortina, as there was still debate about what platform the EFi X-flow engine would end up in....the Fox body, the European based Cortina/Granada, or a revised X shell like the 65-73 Mustang and 75-80 Granada Monarch/ 78-80 Versallies thing reheated.Ford Australia played its cards open with its sights set on cost reduction, and the Fox chassis looked like it wouldn't cut the mustard in terms of towing 2 ton trailers, and being treated like an F150 like boat owning Aussies always do. So they engineered that 83 EFi X flow real, real tight for space. The fact that it fits anywhere is a minor miracle.


The Cortina had an air box where the brake booster was. My mate Richard removed the Heating&Ventialtion & Air Conditioning (HVAC) system, and mounted the LE-II Bosch or EECIV Ford Vane Air Meter (VAM) into that space. The fact that it all fits perfectly is proof that Bosch and Ford Australia had really been working on making the EFi X-flow fit both under the hood, and within the confines of the HVAC.

They did that by having two center spacings, the 4.08" one at the head, and the top runners about 3.40" or so at the top. That allowed the HVAC or possible Left hand drive brake booster to fit.

XEEFISCHEMATIC.webp

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/xecute/XEEFISCHEMATIC.jpg
XE Falcon Cross Flow EFi Schematic
DSC001450.webp

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/xecute/DSC001450.jpg

Australian Right Hand Drive 1977 TC Ford Cortina with Falcon Cross flow 250 alloy head and XE vane air meter

Edsell Ford II was the assistant managing Director at Ford Australia from mid 1977 to late 1980, and according to his last interview with the late David Robertson before he departed back to Michigan, there were plans affoot to use the Honda head on the US 250 and 200, so the EFI system had to fit

1. under the stock Fox hood,
2. away from the Fox Ford brake booster and clutch cable, and
3. clear of the Cortina HVAC.

It just about did all three things, although the 75 mm throttle body hole to the VAM makes it very tight in a Fox with a 250 six.....you can just fit it if it has the shallower 9.38" deck and the Australian engine mounts. The upper EFi runner is sloped to clear the hood rise.


By shear hard work and effort, it also fits the early spring tower braced X shells like Jack Collins 1966 Mustang hardtop

x-flow_250_into_66_mustang_brake_booster_clearance_002.webp

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums...to_66_mustang_brake_booster_clearance_002.jpg

x-flow_250_into_66_mustang_brake_booster_clearance_001.webp

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums...to_66_mustang_brake_booster_clearance_001.jpg

x-flow_250_into_66_mustang_brake_booster_clearance.webp

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums...0_into_66_mustang_brake_booster_clearance.jpg

For Meth Heads, the EFi even had space to fit some Meth bottles betwee the shock towers and the intake runners, like the Mike Vine Turbo EFi kits made in Queensland

MikeVineXFEFITURBOPICTURE.webp


Sooooo, you can bunch the collectors from your six, 4.08" center Independent Throttle Bodies up and over to a lessor spacing to clear the brake booster.

Toyota had the same issues with its 20 valve 4AGE with ITB's, so it used pressed steel elipsoidale collectors to get air clear to the Throttle bodies.

visio_racers_4AGE_20_VALVE_RED_tOP_EX_dAVE_LEAR_7MINUTES40sec_toyota_corrolla_001.webp


http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums...VE_LEAR_7MINUTES40sec_toyota_corrolla_001.jpg

LVE_RED_tOP_EX_dAVE_LEAR_7MINUTES_refer_ellipsoidal_itb_stacks_from_the_2002_Toyots_corrolla_...webp

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums..._stacks_from_the_2002_Toyots_corrolla_001.jpg


Imitation is the highest form of flattery.


Turn these

LVE_RED_tOP_EX_dAVE_LEAR_7MINUTES_refer_ellipsoidal_itb_stacks_from_the_2002_Toyots_corrolla_...webp



upside down, and angle them into a 6 runner top collector at 3.4 inch centers or less, and you won't have any clearance problems.

As I say, you cannot screw this one up. There is so much good stuff to use, and many have found that the upper intake part of the Independent Throttle Body system is where the real power is to be had, and the more confined the quarters, the better the result if you realise that air can be bent.

Mike the Air Bender!

avatar_airbender_001.webp

If I had to guess, I would say Mike is too far into V1.0 to change it up now. Until he finishes it and decides to make V2.0 based off one of your pics that is.
 
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he-he-he-he-he-he-he-he-hey:
Do you wanna drink 473.176473 milliliters of alcohol....


Anyway, he's on Version 2.0 of his intake anyway, so, soy un perdedor, I'm a looser, baby....

I've done intake systems since 1996, and to change anything twice takes a heck of a lotta work.
 
Last edited:
Little late to the party. Mainly because,like Steve-you think I’m an idiot-But here’s some influence for V.2.0 if by chance there is one.
7BBAB248-3697-405A-8477-4EEEDFE2A0ED.webp
C1A0EC54-4EF1-43DA-87D2-3CB3F778D3EC.webp

Im aware this one is a hard no-just thought it was cool-
0B947FC8-E9DE-49C1-B82E-2E8FF1494AB3.webp
Now what would give you that Idea? I believe You to be a sincere person, just trying to get me to do sht that I'll never do.
 
Another day that I have to crawl out of the basement..

I stood on my feet for 6 hours...I don't seem to notice the fatigue during that time,..but let me stop and try to climb a flight of stairs..I can barely lift my legs high enough to climb them. It gets better almost immediately as soon as I start moving, but right now, standing on my feet for an extended period of time will take a toll on my ass.

I did not get all that I wanted to get done...MOF, I only got halfway there. The tedious process of getting the bolt holes properly drilled took forever. Then having to drill the two Siamese'd holes that make up the throttle body mating flange turned out to be more of a challenge than what my empty assed head was up for.

The hole is oval,...Once I got a center marked, I had to mark the outside edges of the hole, and then measure .625" in from the outside edge to create a drill point for the holes. The first one went perfect.
The next one was phcked up as a rat's ass. ( I measured .625 off of center, instead of from the outside,..the hole ended up being huge.

Nonetheless,..I worked around it.
IMAG0004_zpslf2y8aol.webp

IMAG0005_zpstbmsnuqt.webp

You can see the phck'd up one 4 from the right........(It's got a lot of work to do before that one will be ready.)

The other problem I gotta deal with is.....it's too short. Notice the lack of bolt holes on the outside holes...I have to add a couple of "ears" to give me something to bolt through.

The things as you see it is standing way farther off of the ports than it will be when it's finished. Those tubes will get cut down significantly (probably about 2") and the TB's will stand right above the port like I want them to.
I'm happy with the progress so far.

I ordered a Cobra power brake booster from Rock Auto. The Fairmont booster is either bad, of cannot move enough to actually fully depress the MC plunger on the Cobra MC. My brakes feel OK, but the pedal will bottom out. I was able to get it for 90 bucks...35.00 of that is a core charge...55.00 is the cheapest you'll find on this thing, I can tell you that.

My connecting rods came in today..I was expecting them much later in the week. I called another machine shop that does race engines to see how much the rod swap will cost me...Looks like 200 bucks.

There's a picture of me holding the cast rod that is currently in the engine...Just holding the new one in your hand tells the tale of how much better the forged rod is over the cast ones...
IMAG0006_zpsozjistjn.webp

No pinholes, and no porosity. The oil hole where my thumb is is not drilled...One less weak point that I don't won't have.

Best 90 bucks I ever spent.
 
Like I always do, I woke up way too early, and laid awake while I considered stuff.
IMAG0003_zpsqlzxup0r.webp

The big hole on top was originally for some kind of EGR related junk,and is immediately below the throttle blade.
Anybody care to take a guess as to whether or not it'll be better served as a vacuum port for the vacuum reservoir, or should I block it, and tap the tube transition itself for that purpose? (all six will be tapped, and provide manifold vacuum to a cannister, for the brakes, the fast idle valve, the FPR, the vacuum modulator for the transmission, and the MAP sensor)
 
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Reactions: General karthief
If you can work off them while not interfering with the fuel rail, then why not try it. I would want to do as little drilling and tapping as I could. If it ends up not functioning right, then go to drilling and tapping your runners. If it worked on the Bimmer, then...
 
If you can work off them while not interfering with the fuel rail, then why not try it. I would want to do as little drilling and tapping as I could. If it ends up not functioning right, then go to drilling and tapping your runners. If it worked on the Bimmer, then...
I'm gonna run hard lines from that port that'll kinda look like a nitrous fogger kit, so they'll run directly parallel to the fuel rail. They will not interfere with each other.
 
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