Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.

[Mustang5L5]

On my intake, it looks like I need to run a hose from the big vacuum port to the PCV, and cap off the coolant ports. I should be able to use the longer, skinnier ports for the brake booster, FPR and cruise and cap off whatever lines are left? Looks like that's the only way mine intake will work. What are you thoughts? Your advice would be appreciated. Sorry about the previous comment , didn’t mean to put it there.

Well, you need 3 ports on the backside. Source for the vac tree, and EGR and FPR. The FRP needs a dedicated port in case fuel starts to get sucked into the intake. So you need one more on the back.

Up front you have two ports but only need one for the charcoal canister.

Honestly, I did it the way I did because I didn't like the layout of the explorer vac lines.

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

Yeah I'm with you. I don't like that idea of having vacuum lines coming out of the front of the intake. It'll take some creativity to make it look "stock." Ill end up doing something similar to what you did, some fabrication!

 

[Mustang5L5]

So final version of the trigger wheel.

Inner holes are for the crank pulley bolts. My thought is to machine 1/8" from the mounting face, and sandwich this in there between crank pulley and balancer.

The multiple mount holes allow it to be clocked easily, depending on where you mount the crank sensor. I'll double check fit when I get balancer in hand, but this allows 18* of adjustment intervals

I have a piece of 440C stainless (ferric) that I pulled out of the scrap dumpster. Just enough solid real estate area for 1 cut.

 

[Mustang5L5]

One more possible revision to the wheel

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/pickups.htm

About halfway down

Note also that best bet is to obtain an OEM matched wheel and sensor set whenever possible. If the wheel won't fit, by all means make your own wheel, but with the exact same tooth type, so you know it will be matched to the sensor. Don't just grab a Ford sensor and a Honda wheel and expect them to work with each other.

The most important consideration for a VR sensor is that the tooth width (not the wheel thickness, but the length of the top of tooth in the direction of travel) should be matched to the sensor tip width (not the overall all width of the sensor, just the sensing element which is usually visible at the end). The correct width will help provide a sharp zero-crossing transition, making the timing predictable.

Right now my tooth width is 0.30". Need to measure the explorer VR sensor I have to see what it's width is, but I think I'm close. If I'm off, slight adjustment is all that I need to do.

 

[90sickfox]

If you space the crank pulley out 1/8th won't everything else have to be spaced for proper belt alignment ?

The trigger wheel could be designed to fit over the body of the stock crank pulley. It could then have " L " brackets that bolt it to the crank pulley and the trigger wheel. This way it could be mass produced and easily affixed to any stock 5.0 crank pulley by drilling a few holes.

The barrel section of the pulley is just asking for something to get bolted to it....

 

[Mustang5L5]

If you space the crank pulley out 1/8th won't everything else have to be spaced for proper belt alignment ? .

My initial plan was to put the balancer in a lathe, and machine off 1/8" from the face of the pulling mounting surface. I think it can be done easily without affecting balance much. However if my thinking is wrong or I shouldn't do that, please someone let me know.

But, if I could adjust it to make this a truly bolt on 36-1 wheel, I'm certainly willing to explore making a few changes.

I have a 5.0 stock crank pulley in hand, and a balancer in the mail. Before I cut anything I plan on bolting it together and seeing if there an easier, more direct bolt on way to do it.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Decided to cut a test wheel out of aluminum so I have something in hand to reference against my model when I fit up the balancer and pulley.

 

[RaggedGT]

All you edis 8 guys need to get together and come up with a Fox/Mega squirt direct swap kit. Make your moneys fellas lol

 

[Mustang5L5]

All you edis 8 guys need to get together and come up with a Fox/Mega squirt direct swap kit. Make your moneys fellas lol

That's next on my list. Make a harness for the explorer coil packs, cam sensor and crank sensor and run it back to the MS.

Before, when I was doing EDIS with the A9L as my plan, I was trying to find a female TFI plug to create a plug in harness. Never found it.

Right now trying to find out how much current the coil packs will pull so I cansize a few watertight 8-pin connectors properly. I also need to feed them 12v from somewhere. Might need to add a small fuse box in the engine bay for the coil packs, plus e fan relays

I don't have the time or capacity to produce though. plus I don't own the laser cutter technicslly. A onesie twosie is one thing...making for sale might cross a line.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Speaking of explorer coils....

Bead blasted, ready for some hand sanding and then paint black

 

[a91what]

The 12v power in the tfi circuit is what I used to power the edis module and coil packs. Worked great, but I spliced my connections.

A #12awg with a 15 or 20 amp fuse will be far more then adequate to power the coils.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Thanks for the input. I may get an sn95 fuse box and install it where the factory coil would be and run a pair of power wires to the coil packs. Probably overkill, but if it keeps everything reliable, fine by me. I'll install my fan relay in there as well and trigger it via the MS.

I'd like to try to not cut any of the factory wiring if I can. If for some reason one day I want/need to go back to an A9L, I want the option.

I think I have a pretty good idea how I want to make the harness. Got a few connectors in the mail and searching eBay for an underhood fuse box I think will work (94-98 mustang is most probable)

I know I've said EDIS8 a few times, but I won't be using the module. Gonna have the MS do it all.

I've even had some ideas on how to make holders for LS coils, but for now I'll use the explorer coil packs. Seems easier to get going with

 

[RaggedGT]

That's next on my list. Make a harness for the explorer coil packs, cam sensor and crank sensor and run it back to the MS.

Before, when I was doing EDIS with the A9L as my plan, I was trying to find a female TFI plug to create a plug in harness. Never found it.

Right now trying to find out how much current the coil packs will pull so I cansize a few watertight 8-pin connectors properly. I also need to feed them 12v from somewhere. Might need to add a small fuse box in the engine bay for the coil packs, plus e fan relays

I don't have the time or capacity to produce though. plus I don't own the laser cutter technicslly. A onesie twosie is one thing...making for sale might cross a line.

Just figure out the how to and with what, let a big company worry about production. Sit back and count your design money lol

 

[90sickfox]

Machining 1/8 off the pulley mounting g surface may weaken the pulley.

I think that the trigger wheel could be machined to fit a set spot on the crank pulley by the balancer.

I don't know what type of equipment is available to you....but...if there could be a lip machined on the back side of the trigger wheel it would serve as a spacer from the balancer and a mounting point.

It could also be a...let's say...3/8 ring that slipped at the bottom of the stock crank pulley. The ring could be drilled to take #7 Allen head bolts with nylon lock nuts ( inside the crank pulley. That trigger wheel could be drilled with slots that allow degrees of movement with allen screws, flat washers, and lock washers to secure. The machined ring would just need to be tapped to accept the allens.

It wouldn't be hard to make a template for drilling the holes in the balancer.

The balancer ring would also serve as a way to ensure its placed on the correct spot. Lay the ring down on a flat surface, set the pulley in the center and mark. Lay template using one of the pulley bolt holes for reference, center punch, and drill.

The crank pulley should be centered by the lip on the front of the balancer.

The balancer, center hub, is machined. The crank pulley inner hole is machined....so the only place for error is if the stamped stock pulley has wobble in it.

The other option to nullify that is a machined aluminum stock diameter pulley....

That would take out virtually any wobble... Since all surfaces would be machined.

Just an idea....

Edit ; I started this post at 10 am....since then I now see what type of stuff are available to you....that trigger wheel looks awesome.

 

[General karthief]

Could you do what steve did to his wheel? I think he cut out the center to fit his lower pulley and welded it behind the inside shoulder of where the belt rides, leaving a space between the wheel and the shoulder, I think he used a different size lower pully but that was for the difference in the longer blower drive snout, or shorter, no it was longer,
Or am I missing something?
Probably
I usually do.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Not sure I'm liking this fit, but it did give me another idea for rev2. exactly why I did the first prototype out of aluminum

I also discover that the VR sensor is 0.25" in OD and my teeth are 0.30" so I need to make a slight tweak.

My balancer is in on Friday. My problem is are all aftermarket balancers cast from the same molds? If I design a ring to fit on one balancer will it work on others? My idea is to use the balancer to secure the wheel by laser cutting the ID of the wheel to match the four "fingers" on the balancer. Need to see how to secure it though.

My ultimate plan was a simple bolt on stable wheel that would work with any pulley and allow some positional adjustability.

Anyway...on hold

 

[Mustang5L5]

Some other minor updates.

High temp primer on coil mount

I have both style cam sensors, so I think I'll g with the VR style and not Hall effect

Anyone need any coil packs?

 

[Mustang5L5]

Trying not to go too far ahead of myself, but starting to work on a plug in harness for the coil packs, cam sensor, and cranks sensor, and disconnects for a harness leading to the ECU and one to a fuse box. just planning right now. Got some connectors on order but want to think this through before I spend the time

Finished painting the EGR spacer and 65mm TB. No pics but they look awesome and new.

Sneak peak of the intake. Not fully painted, as I wanted to see the color and how the surface looked. You can see how the runners still look like the rough casting, except where i sanded off some of the prouder features. My plan is to lay down a coat of primer, then sand a bit more, Then repeat with more high temp primer until I get rid of that rough look and get a smooth appearance overall. Then i'll topcoat in this final color.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Oh and bought my dad a bday present for his '17 F150.

 

[General karthief]

Now I understand.
Bolt and go!