For lifting the edge of trim at work I use this stuff (assuming your trim is still relatively pliable). It works great.Hi I happened upon this thread just now. Went through about 10 pages or so, what a great idea. I don't have time to get through the whole thing right now although I'm sure I will eventually.
Do you have any tips for dealing with the window trim seals? Specifically I'm painting the roof only on a 99 mustang gt coupe. I won't need any blending since I have the exact paint and the roof doesn't touch any other panels anyway. But the trim on the rear window and windshield is rubber and tight to the roof.
Last time I used a small wire to hold the trim up a little until the paint work was done. It worked okay but just wanted to see if you had any other tricks.
Some history, the first time I had the car sprayed they used some new on the market clear coat and it ended up peeling in sheets right off the paint (paint still intact and attached to the car like the clear didn't stick to it) only a couple years later. I heard that thats what happened with the particular clear in the next few years but I think the cause is that they waited too long to spray the clear. Had to have the whole car completely sanded down and re-sprayed. This 2nd time around about 3 years in, the roof began cracking in a couple spots, pulling up. Not sure why it's really bizarre because the rest of the paint is perfect. I'm wondering if it's from sitting out in the sun too much as it is black and I park in the driveway mostly in summer when I drive it a lot. I don't believe there was any bondo at all on the roof. I know there was some bondo in a couple other spots and those areas are still pristine.
I've done a good amount of painting cars and bikes as a hobby, but this was my baby and I wanted to pay to have it right. Now I feel like I should have just done it myself to begin with and the old saying if you want it done right do it yourself comes to mind. I just hate the cutting and buffing I have to do to get the results I want or I would paint a lot more.
If I can remember at work today, I’ll post a picture of me using the trim masking tape.
Do you remember which clear coat was sprayed on your car that peeled away?
Sometimes there are just bad batches from the factory (pretty rare problem though).
If the painter shooting waited outside of the adhesion limit (usually 24 hours per the manufacturer’s guidelines) it will peel like that. Personally I’ve never waited more than a couple hours to clear a paint job, it makes me nervous precisely because of what happened to you. I trust what the manufacturers say their paint will do to just a certain extent.
Sometimes it’s just cheap paint. Value lines are cheaper for a reason.
I recommended a cheaper priced clear a little while back here. It’s made by Utech. This is an Akzo Nobel subsidiary. It has a lifetime warranty. It lays out beautifully, though you have to move considerably slower while shooting it.
A black paint job is more likely to have issues due to a greater absorption of UV radiation. Though the damage will be a much more subtle peeling issue. It’ll begin delaminating (peeling) earlier than a brighter paint color. You’ll notice the early stages of this when it seems like it’s getting a cloudy/milky look to it.
Post a picture or two of your current problem for me to look at.

