Nick's "lvndpst" Restoration (and Slight Modification) Thread

Good ol’ youtube. Led me to an old DIY page that discussed the updated clutch pack order, and walked me through measuring for shims. The new clutch plates are thicker than the stockers from the 80’s, so you measure overall thickness of the stock stack versus overall thickness of the new stack. Want them to be .640 - .645”. So after sourcing the new S clip, I will pull them back out and redo the stacks. If only things came with directions instead of having to rely on the internet...
 
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Seeing your Eibach sway bar in the last picture - reminded me to ask + How do you like it ? Can you tell a difference VS stock? In your opinion , was it a cost effective upgrade? Would you spend the money on them again? I just swapped my whole suspension -except these.
 
Seeing your Eibach sway bar in the last picture - reminded me to ask + How do you like it ? Can you tell a difference VS stock? In your opinion , was it a cost effective upgrade? Would you spend the money on them again? I just swapped my whole suspension -except these.

Well man, it’s hard to know. I put their front and back sway bars on at the same time as the Eibach pro kit springs, BMR front control arms, and Maximum Motorsports rear control arms. It does corner nice and flat, but I can’t tell you exactly what contributes the most since I put it all on at once. They are much thicker than stickers, I can tell you that.
 
Get this. I call my local drivetrain shop who carriers Yukon axles and parts looking for the S clip. Nope, doesn’t have it. Call all local Ford dealers with 20 miles of Cedar Rapids, IA, (the second largest city in Iowa) and none have it. But they tell me who does... West Branch Ford in West Branch, IA, population 2426. I drive the hour to them to get it. He proceeds to tell me that these are ordered in pairs, and this extra one has been on their shelf for 13 years... Guess I’m the only one who replaces these things out of caution.

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In the middle of those trucks was a new Raptor parked on a dirt mound, lol. You can barely see it in the pic. Not sure how they stay in business honestly, we have some really nice Ford dealers all within a hour, a couple less than that from there. Places where you don’t feel like you need a carry pistol and tetanus shot to enter... But hey, they’re good with me after today!

Because of them I got her all buttoned up today. Nice, because it’s supposed to rain tonight and I was doing it in my driveway. What I wouldn’t have given to have a lift for that messy ass job. Why is it that when working with gear oil and RTV, they have to get all over every surface they don’t need to? It’s like a rule.

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Now I’m down to waiting on a couple bolts and my fuel pressure regulator. Slap the upper intake on, change the oil, and call my tuner to meet up.
Put on tire on, let it touch the ground, put the thing in neutral, then take a crowbar ( You live in Iowa, that’s gotta be one of the first tools you bought) and put it between the studs and try to spin the the axle.
 
Put on tire on, let it touch the ground, put the thing in neutral, then take a crowbar ( You live in Iowa, that’s gotta be one of the first tools you bought) and put it between the studs and try to spin the the axle.


What the hell you talking about Willis? Both tires spin freely the same direction now. I’m not crowbaring anything. I’m confident I got it right. Used a digital caliper to measure the clutch packs and get them both to .645”, and the spider gears went back in nicely. Now if my LMR order wasn’t taking all week to get here I would have it moving under its own power and go break it in gently.
 
What the hell you talking about Willis? Both tires spin freely the same direction now. I’m not crowbaring anything. I’m confident I got it right. Used a digital caliper to measure the clutch packs and get them both to .645”, and the spider gears went back in nicely. Now if my LMR order wasn’t taking all week to get here I would have it moving under its own power and go break it in gently.
I think he was say'n keep one tire on the ground and jack up the other and test it, no need to do that because it will show up when you do the burn out video.
In front of your house.
At 8am on a Sunday morning.
Just a suggestion :jester:
 
I think he was say'n keep one tire on the ground and jack up the other and test it, no need to do that because it will show up when you do the burn out video.
In front of your house.
At 8am on a Sunday morning.
Just a suggestion :jester:

The parking pad is technically behind my house. The paved road in front will remain tire rubberless to keep from encouraging anyone else since I have kids playing outside. Don’t worry, once the intake is on, the tune is checked and adjusted, I fully plan on letting loose on the parking pad. The tires on back already have slits in them from the fenders not being rolled, so they need disposed of properly.
 
I was sayin.....if the rear went together “ too easy” the clutches will allow slippage, and you’ll be able to spin one wheel even though one wheel is locked ( the tire on the ground).
You do you.


I get what you mean, but I feel good about it. Besides, maybe I want to be like my crotchety idol and do it twice (or thrice)... And if for some reason it does spin one, it’s not a hard job to pull it apart and swap a shim now that I have all the needed parts and tools.
 
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Got to do some piddling this afternoon. It was gorgeous out, so I just took my time and enjoyed it as my wife was watching the kids.

First up, my made in Germany Bosch pretending to be motorcraft fuel pressure regulator. Little guy even came with new bolts.

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Then I decided to tackle my water pump and new hoses. Who woulda thought this Motorcraft waterpump was made in China... Kinda disappointing.

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On the bright side, I only managed to “break” the very top water pump bolt. The really crazy part is that the bolt is clearly broken off, but the bolt hole is clear all the way through... Must have been broken before by the PO, and reused with what little threads were left? But I plan to order a new set of bolts, even though I only really need the one. The others cleaned up well and I used anti seize when I reinstalled them.

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My Motorcraft hose kit came with an Autolite water pump to T stat hose, and it was way too long and pinched itself when installed...

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I cut about a half inch off the bottom and it fit better.

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I was able to get the new hoses on using the factory style hose clamps, which I love more than the screw type. However, I can’t remember how it is from the factory, but the new hose clamp kit still utilized the screw type clamps on that water to T stat hose... Oh well.

I was able to stab the dizzy as well. (That comment is you for Mr @CarMichael Angelo ) While I was doing all this, I realized it was kind of silly that my A/C was on the car when it didn’t work and all needs replaced. So for now, it’s off the car with the exception of the condenser. I should have left it off when I did the engine swap, but whatevs.

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Lastly, I think a I found the source of my coolant leak. The PO had cut the tube coming off the water pump that goes to the T stat. I’m guessing under pressure, that hose wasn’t sealing.

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So even though I’m now doubting my thermostat housing was the problem, I like that I have a new shiny one to match the shiny Chinee water pump. After today though, I have lost my confidence in buying Motorcraft parts and thinking they are made in America or even Mexico. The water pump was the nail in the coffin.
 
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Well... I’m going to call it a blessing in disguise.

I was able to get the car all buttoned up today. The Systemax requires routing vacuum lines differently. I took the time to replace all of the lines running to and around the intake, since I was right there.

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The red on the intake doesn’t match my car, it was done by the PO. As well as drilling out one of the throttle body threads... Gotta love used parts.

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Luckily my new throttle body studs were long enough to go all the way through and I put a nut on the end. Good enough for who it’s for, as it’s down low and mostly out of sight.

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I also realized the joke is on me thinking I could simply remove my AC without a bunch of extra work. Turns out it’s not as simple as on and SN. So back on (minus the lines) it went.

I turn the key and prime the fuel system. Low and behold I have a stream of fuel running down from the passenger side. I immediately cuss up a storm assuming it’s the new fuel regulator now being installed right. Maybe I pinched the O ring. Nope, it’s dry. I prime the system and leave the key turned on to see where it’s coming from. It’s the crossover between the rails, in the back of the engine, streaming out of the back of the passenger fuel rail where the crossover attaches.

I’m choosing to see it as a blessing in disguise that it happened in my driveway with the engine off, rather than while I was driving down the road. However, I was an oil change away from taking it for a spin to see how much tuning it may need. To say I am frustrated is putting it lightly.
 
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