Hi,
Well, the PI swap would get you to a solid 260HP, from 215hp stock. We’re talking grossHP, not RWHP. If you’re planting 273RWHP, that means your motor is making about 15% more. (15% represents the power loss through the drivetrain.).
Ironically, your motor would be now be making 314 Crank HP to be planting 273RWHP. You’re seeking 300-325RWHP?
It’s a feat to get beyond 300HP without the PI swap, or going with aftermarket head’s, or potted & polished Heads, Cams, NOS.
The PI Intake manifold is 90% of what actually improves the HP/TQ, and they are often installed without PI heads or Cams, many times without the adapters you can no longer find, with Silicone to seal it all up (yes, bad!) as I’d posted earlier.
A list of what you already haveI would be super important, (at least what you know of, internally- if anything) and/or to post a picture or pictures of your engine bay , would also help gain some insight.
We don’t want to re-invent the Wheel-right?
A great mod, about the best for the price is by running lower gears, but sounds like you may have them. Can you confirm this by picking up the rear & counting driveshaft/tire revolutions to know what it has for gears now. Stock should be 3.08’s.
There’s a point on the 4.6l 2V motor’s where you hit a HP ceiling and need to make a decision on which way to go, FI, or NA.
There’s still many ways to go about it, but again, we know to know what’s already there.
No. It’s certainly not as cheap as an 86’-93 Foxbody 5.0 to build, which is why many SN95 owners go FI if they want big gains with the 4.6l 2V Motor’s, or go DOHC on the SOHC motors, or transplant a Coyote in and go nuts, etc.
Any info will help. How does the car go now, if it’s running right, I’d think it’d be pretty strong. I’d had a 96’ and hit it with countless 150HP NOS shots with over 200k on it. It never let me down. That’s no guarantee.
These motors are resilient, properly maintained. For instance, filled with good reciprocating assamblies, externals, a Tekskid block can support over 1,000HP.
You’re right, a motor with that mileage may not handle much more for a long period of time, if you did FI now (Centrifugal Supercharger) you could plant it on the next motor you drop in. It’ll be cheaper to buy parts now that a year from now. No doubt.
Buy one from a boneyard & just have a shop Hone it & check it out. Slowly build it in parallel while running this. When it’s time, swap the FI parts over to the fresh motor setup for higher boost levels. Doing the assembly yourself is cheaper, and very rewarding.
I’ve seen them FI’d into the 250K range, but it comes down to how it was maintained.
Have an article you may want to see. I’d done this to a guys 97’ GT years ago.
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-1105-592hp-46l-2v-motor-for-2298/
This also hinges on how strict the DMV inspections are in your area. If they are not strict there, building becomes much cheaper and I’d be more than happy to give you suggestions to turn into a monster.
Best!
-John