Progress Thread Finally got my first Fox Body - 1988 GT

[DudeStang]

Just picked up the car. I paid $265 total. It’s still legal so it’s 35 percent on the rear and 50 percent on the sides (darkest you can go legally in Virginia). I’m pretty happy with the look and it doesn’t seem too dark inside the car (but will have to check it out at night to see how that is).

Need to get some better pics but here’s how it looks:

 

[WhiteCobra95]

Looks really good! There's something about tinting the windows that just makes it seem like it has a lower roof line. =)

Thanks for posting the cost. That helps, it was in the ballpark of what i had estimated.

I'll have to check into the rules for Michigan, I think they're much worse about the tint levels than other states. I definitely need the rear window done. The slope makes it almost like a greenhouse. Plus, it would probably save me the trouble of hitting the mirror button when driving at night.

Thanks for posting! It has been fun to watch the progress on your car. Nice work!

 

[90sickfox]

I want 20 on the back and sides, 35 on the front 2, and a 20 percent strip on the top of the windshield. I'll stop by or call them at some point this week. Thanks for posting this man.

 

[DudeStang]

I don’t have any other good pics yet but you can see some more angles on how it looks in my latest Vlog (after the dumb golf shenanigans):


View: https://youtu.be/yBL5elIVF5U

 

[Mustang5L5]

Our limit is 35% around. I used to tint my cars to around 20% but the last DD i bought I didn't bother, and I ended up pulling the tint off the Mustang. Guess i'm getting old.

 

[Rdub6]

Our limit is 35% around. I used to tint my cars to around 20% but the last DD i bought I didn't bother, and I ended up pulling the tint off the Mustang. Guess i'm getting old.

I’m with you. I had one car that had tint all around, and I hated how it felt driving at night. It makes some cars look pretty nice (to look at) but I like to see what’s going on around me, and that tint made me feel a bit out of “control”.

 

[Olivethefet]

I had a car with 5% on all windows but the windshield. The windshield had and extremely low 5% brow on it and I hated it. I bought it that way. I had to roll the windows down at night to see if I was pulling out in front of someone! I had it removed and replaced with 20%. Still not legal but I liked it. Cut the brow back to legal. It looked cool with the 5 but was not safe to drive at night.

 

[DudeStang]

I drove the fox tonight after sundown, maybe around 8 pm. The tint isn’t too dark. Visibility still seemed pretty good. I do think it’s quite a bit lighter than the tint on my 2014 Mustang.

 

[DudeStang]

Not a direct Fox update but I did finally get the lighting in the garage more sorted out. Still need to get the other side updated but it’s a lot brighter now, which I’m pretty happy about.


View: https://youtu.be/9OQYS2zGE9o


Unrelated to the lighting, I wanted to get some input again from the Fox hive mind. I think this was touched on a while back but I don’t want to try to find the page in the thread.

My Fox has the AC deleted and the emissions stuff was removed by a previous owner. The serpentine belt is still routed around the smog pump. If the smog pump isn’t really doing what it was intended to do, is it causing any parasitic loss? Is there any benefit to removing the smog pump and getting a shorter serpentine belt? Maybe a really small amount of weight reduction?

 

[Rdub6]

Not a direct Fox update but I did finally get the lighting in the garage more sorted out. Still need to get the other side updated but it’s a lot brighter now, which I’m pretty happy about.


View: https://youtu.be/9OQYS2zGE9o


Unrelated to the lighting, I wanted to get some input again from the Fox hive mind. I think this was touched on a while back but I don’t want to try to find the page in the thread.

My Fox has the AC deleted and the emissions stuff was removed by a previous owner. The serpentine belt is still routed around the smog pump. If the smog pump isn’t really doing what it was intended to do, is it causing any parasitic loss? Is there any benefit to removing the smog pump and getting a shorter serpentine belt? Maybe a really small amount of weight reduction?

I took mine off only because I wanted to clean up the engine bay. The less wires, lines, hoses the better. It’s not stealing much horsepower.

 

[Willybill32]

Not a direct Fox update but I did finally get the lighting in the garage more sorted out. Still need to get the other side updated but it’s a lot brighter now, which I’m pretty happy about.


View: https://youtu.be/9OQYS2zGE9o


Unrelated to the lighting, I wanted to get some input again from the Fox hive mind. I think this was touched on a while back but I don’t want to try to find the page in the thread.

My Fox has the AC deleted and the emissions stuff was removed by a previous owner. The serpentine belt is still routed around the smog pump. If the smog pump isn’t really doing what it was intended to do, is it causing any parasitic loss? Is there any benefit to removing the smog pump and getting a shorter serpentine belt? Maybe a really small amount of weight reduction?

If the smog pump discharge isn’t connected to anything, go ahead and remove it. I think an 84” belt works without the pump. On the other hand, if you ever plan to return it to stock, keep it.

 

[DudeStang]

If the smog pump discharge isn’t connected to anything, go ahead and remove it. I think an 84” belt works without the pump. On the other hand, if you ever plan to return it to stock, keep it.

Where did you see the 84” number? Is that for smog pump bypass and AC delete?

I’ve seen some mixed info in a few different places. According to LMR’s belt routing guide, it should be a 74” belt:


But this belt that appears to be for the same application (for sale on LMR) is listed as 73.5”.

Also, CJ Pony Parts has one like this listed at 73 inches.

I guess I could just try to use measuring tape to simulate the route and see how long it is.

 

[Olivethefet]

If you are having trouble figuring out what size belt you need you can do what I've done in the past. You should be able to get in the ballpark with a string or research. Go to your favorite parts store and buy a few belts in half inch increments. 73, 73.5 74, 74.5. Tell them what you are doing and they will let you bring back the ones you dont need. I did that when I changed the belt on my car. It only has the smog delete, but the recommended belt size did not work. Turns out the belt on my car is the same as what they use on a V6 Dodge Magnum.

 

[Willybill32]

Where did you see the 84” number? Is that for smog pump bypass and AC delete?

I’ve seen some mixed info in a few different places. According to LMR’s belt routing guide, it should be a 74” belt:


But this belt that appears to be for the same application (for sale on LMR) is listed as 73.5”.

Also, CJ Pony Parts has one like this listed at 73 inches.

I guess I could just try to use measuring tape to simulate the route and see how long it is.

Sorry, I forgot about the AC delete. I used the same diagram you showed to get the 84” belt for my smog pump delete.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Do you have cats? If not pull it all off and stuff it in a box.

You’ll want to remove the pump and the hoses connected to it. You’ll want to cap the tube at the h-pipe. I have used 3/4” heater hose with a bolt. You’ll also want to cap off the pipe to the heads. Either plug the pipe or remove it and plug the heads.


For the solenoids, you can either unplug them, cap the vacuum line feeding the solenoids, or leave them intact, pull the downstream vac line off.

Make sure you leave the EGR solenoid and plumbing intact if equipped.

Stuff it all in a box and save it

 

[Rdub6]

I will double check when I get home to see what belt size I used for “no AC/ no smog”, but I also had to try a few to get it right, where the tensioner was in the right place.

 

[Rdub6]

73.5” is what ended up being the right fit for my motor.

 

[DudeStang]

Do you have cats? If not pull it all off and stuff it in a box.

You’ll want to remove the pump and the hoses connected to it. You’ll want to cap the tube at the h-pipe. I have used 3/4” heater hose with a bolt. You’ll also want to cap off the pipe to the heads. Either plug the pipe or remove it and plug the heads.


For the solenoids, you can either unplug them, cap the vacuum line feeding the solenoids, or leave them intact, pull the downstream vac line off.

Make sure you leave the EGR solenoid and plumbing intact if equipped.

Stuff it all in a box and save it

I have cats but they are flowmaster high flow cats I had a shop weld into the off-road x pipe (installed by a previous owner). A lot of the emissions stuff was also removed by a previous owner. The smog pump is still there though. I need to poke around and see if there’s anything else still there besides the smog pump.

Another thing I came across and have been wondering about - this off-road idler bracket.

Obviously this is more expensive than just buying a belt but is there any benefit to adding something like this (and I assume keeping the same size belt) versus eliminating the smog pump and getting a smaller belt?

While I’m asking questions - I’ve been getting the itch to lower the Fox, but not anything crazy. Maybe like 1-1.5”. I assume I would need to get an alignment but what about caster camber plates? Are they necessary to get a lowered Fox properly aligned? Or can you get away with a 1-1.5” drop and get aligned OK without them?

 

[Mustang5L5]

Really the only reason to get that is if you have a supercharger kit that requires stock belt routing, otherwise it’s another potential failure down the road.

Short belt it and reroute

 

[90sickfox]

Caster / camber plates have way more alignment ability than the factory plate. You can adjust the camber back out with drilling out the factory rivets and moving the strut plate or using camber bolts in the strut where it bolts to the spindle. The correct and easiest way would be to do it right the first time and get good aftermarket plates. I use UPR but the best is Maximum.