Engine Need guidance on my mild engine mods

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Ok guys, I could not get the motor over 154 degree's F. I am not sure why due to not being the orig owner so I will find out soon if it even has a thermostat in it. The car had some minor mods from back in the 90's. It had a flowmaster catback, msd ign coil, air horns and a flex lite radiator fan that was clutchless, permantly mounted to pully. I removed the setup and installed a new ford clutch fan and clutch.

4-- 175 8-- 165
3-- 170 7-- 170
2--170 6-- 170
1-- 170 5-- 175
Nothing wrong with those numbers. Even better if you've got the 87-92 forged pistons! Check your #3 main bearing and a few rod bearings to make sure there not excessively worn and go from there.
 
hello everyone, Took motor apart and worried about what I see on the middle crank bearing. Opinions welcomed, if I need a refresh I am screwed. The bores still have the machine markings and no ridge. Factory head gaskets and motor mounts to amazingly. Let me know what you think. The crank journal looks brand new.
 

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I see just normal wear
The thrust gets looking like that quick on one that has a clutch and is driven some hard
Just check the clearance and re use it if it's good
I just looked up the end play spec again it is .012"
 
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Why are you tearing apart a 39k mile engine?
I'm with you here, I'm so lost. My stock 5.0 has 170k miles and I still bounce that thing off the rev limiter all day.

Unless you are just extremley bored I would have left the motor together, could do more damage putting it back together if you don't know what you're doing.

I would opted for just changing the seals and throwing in a used T-5 when you put it back together over a set of aluminum heads. Doesn't matter how "strong" or "weak" the AOD is, it's so sluggish, I'm not sure it's even possible to damage a stock 5.0 with that tranny.
 
I do admire GN for having the guts to tear it apart, but I feel it was not needed.
I would oil it up and stick it back together.
As for the auto trans, change the oil, stick a shift kit in it and ride.
A gear change would be in order but a trans swap? Naw.
 
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I did the same thing with a '99 Explorer motor that was supposed to be a cheap build. ARP rod bolts that needed to have the rods resized, ARP head bolts, new Lunati cam, the right valve springs/retainers/locks, forged pistons, on and on. One thing led to another, and my cheap build motor isn't so cheap anymore!
 
I did the same thing with a '99 Explorer motor that was supposed to be a cheap build. ARP rod bolts that needed to have the rods resized, ARP head bolts, new Lunati cam, the right valve springs/retainers/locks, forged pistons, on and on. One thing led to another, and my cheap build motor isn't so cheap anymore!
I feel your pain... NO such thing as a cheap build... I would rather use parts and a machine shop that I pick though, rather than buy a " rebuild" off of ebay..
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