- Mar 3, 2010
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My centri ppl would you guys say this is good deal? I wanted a self contained but this is tempting.
Progress Thread Cars alive again, but would these items move on marketplace?
- Thread starter Reddevil91
- Start date
That's a great deal. I pieced together my V3 kit over almost a year and I probably have that much into it. This is much easier, especially if you can beat him down a few hundred $$. I would go for it, but I would make sure you can get paperwork for the rebuild stuff just as peace of mind. If it visually looks good, and no weird noises or shaft play, you are good to go. Get your fueling right, bolt this on and go!
Yeah, that’s a good deal. I want to say I paid like $3000 for a used v2 kit I sourced for a friend about a year ago. So $2500 is a pretty good price
- Mar 3, 2010
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Would I be dumb to pass on this deal close to me. I know it’s not MM but I already have rear upper and lower UPR, I’ve wanted to go with a new K member. Wants 1200 obo I thought if I can grab this for 1000. He isn’t sure what the coil overs are for sure thinks they are are either 12-225 or 12-250
Not a bad deal if you can get it for $1000.
Even if you had to flip the struts/springs and get the ones you wanted.
Even if you had to flip the struts/springs and get the ones you wanted.
- Mar 3, 2010
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He came back with 1100 but it’s a 2 hr drive for me so I think I can get him at 1k. I’m not sure what spring rate is good, don’t really know much about coil overs. I would like to get a little lower stance and off these Jamex springs I’ve had on the car since 99!!
I have this K-member, at least as it was sold 15 years ago, in my 91 turbo. I don't like the lack of grease fittings. Mine makes noise. Consider tapping for the fittings before installation.
Here's my take on it, if it's all exactly what you want (other than maybe the spring rate), then you should make a play for it.
It's a lot of money and a lot of work that you do NOT want to do twice, just to save some money on the front end.
K members on facebook marketplace are a dime a dozen.
Don't be banking on selling parts from the kit, because you will take a hit, just like he's going to if he sells it to you.
Personally i'd want a 1/3 off the new price to be worth my trouble. And you really need to know the spring rates and if that's what you want, because it could cost you another 100 bucks to change them, shrinking the deal.
The higher number is stiffer, the lower the softer.
Easiest way to look at is is 150lb is more of a drag race number and 300lb is more of a road coarse number (the numbers get more extreme, just not really for street cars).
I run 275lb.
Edit: I wrote the paragraph above earlier and didn't post it. Now that he has offered $1100 that would be a firm no for me.
Let him find some other guy (which he won't) that's willing to let him off the hook with only a 20% hit.
4 hour drive to save $300? Certainly not enough motivation for me.
When he comes back at you agreeing to the $1000, tell him you spent 100 bucks and now you only have 900.
The $1000 was more than fair (as i said i think too generous), he should have taken it.
It's a lot of money and a lot of work that you do NOT want to do twice, just to save some money on the front end.
K members on facebook marketplace are a dime a dozen.
Don't be banking on selling parts from the kit, because you will take a hit, just like he's going to if he sells it to you.
Personally i'd want a 1/3 off the new price to be worth my trouble. And you really need to know the spring rates and if that's what you want, because it could cost you another 100 bucks to change them, shrinking the deal.
The higher number is stiffer, the lower the softer.
Easiest way to look at is is 150lb is more of a drag race number and 300lb is more of a road coarse number (the numbers get more extreme, just not really for street cars).
I run 275lb.
Edit: I wrote the paragraph above earlier and didn't post it. Now that he has offered $1100 that would be a firm no for me.
Let him find some other guy (which he won't) that's willing to let him off the hook with only a 20% hit.
4 hour drive to save $300? Certainly not enough motivation for me.
When he comes back at you agreeing to the $1000, tell him you spent 100 bucks and now you only have 900.
The $1000 was more than fair (as i said i think too generous), he should have taken it.
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The lb rate of the spring is not that important with a coil over. I have 125 lb springs on the front of my race car and you would be hard pressed to get the front end to move by pushing the front of the car up/down. It comes down to how much the spring is compressed. I have the 125 lb springs compressed 3.5" which results in a compressed load of 437.5 lbs. each. Which is the same has having a 437.5 lb spring not compressed.
If they are 150 lb springs, use them, just compress them 1.5 " or so for a "normal" street ride.
The spring rate is much more critical on a stock suspension where the load the spring has is not adjustable.
What is far more important is the strut. If the strut is to firm, the ride will be rough/hard regardless of the spring rate. It the strut is to soft, the opposite is true and the front end will wallow all over the place. Spend your money on the best adjustable struts you can afford and use whatever the springs are that are included. You can adjust around the spring and get the ride quality you want.
If they are 150 lb springs, use them, just compress them 1.5 " or so for a "normal" street ride.
The spring rate is much more critical on a stock suspension where the load the spring has is not adjustable.
What is far more important is the strut. If the strut is to firm, the ride will be rough/hard regardless of the spring rate. It the strut is to soft, the opposite is true and the front end will wallow all over the place. Spend your money on the best adjustable struts you can afford and use whatever the springs are that are included. You can adjust around the spring and get the ride quality you want.
Habu135
5 Year Member
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Halloween is coming and got some new toys !! My daughter seems to like the car I think! Also curious what transmissions you guys are running. I have an old tremec T5, saw a TKO 600 for sale about 30-40 minutes away. I think it’s a little high priced, especially after looking what the new TKX goes for, idk 2900 plus tax and shipping etc so I’d guess low 3k. Id like to give an upgrade in that department, but always heard the tko600 was notchy which I take as rough to shift. I would possibly give him a lower offer 1500 or so but anyone run a tko600? What is your opinion on it? https://www.facebook.com/share/WnESmb5k6YnX6iqo/?mibextid=79PoIi
The TKO is no longer being made... It has been replaced by the TKX.....
The TKX internals are based off of the 6 speed magnum transmission, NOT the TKO....
what does that tell you?
The TKX internals are based off of the 6 speed magnum transmission, NOT the TKO....
what does that tell you?
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The little creatures that run around in plastic mech armor suits, sucking up all the car money is [way] scarier than the cellophane skeleton. 
TKX is not a top loader design like the T5, 3350, TKO, TKO 500, & TKO 600. The TKX (as pointed out) is an "end-loaded design" like the T-56. I have one of the old TKO's in my T-Brid and with a good shifter (and you have to run Synchromesh fluids) they shift way better than the stock shifter. I have driven a T-56 Magnum car and they do shift better so I would imagine a TKX shifts the same.
I've used a TKO for the better part of 20 years. Is it a T5? No, it's not that smooth and light, but i don't find it notchy either.
Would i pay $1850 for it? It's close at that price, but i think $1500 would be closer to the real value.
Him offering it without the shifter is nonsense, he rather deal with two different people over 100 bucks?
Personally i drive to see expensive items and make the offer in person.
It's easy for people to say no to random online offers, not so much when you have a guy in front of you with $1500+.
Would i pay $1850 for it? It's close at that price, but i think $1500 would be closer to the real value.
Him offering it without the shifter is nonsense, he rather deal with two different people over 100 bucks?
Personally i drive to see expensive items and make the offer in person.
It's easy for people to say no to random online offers, not so much when you have a guy in front of you with $1500+.
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I agree there, if I could get it for 1500 I think I’d be open to it and it’s definitely better than my current trans. If he is stuck at the asking price I’d have to bail, also agree with the shifter like come on man just leave it one there!!
I’d run the tkx
Had a tko , hated the way it shifted - broke 4th gear cluster with my 7k plus shifts
Had rockland standard gear make it a “ tranzilla” spec . Still hated it
The tkx has the same style front bearing plate as a t56 and used the same style roller bearing I believe. They also share some of the same internal design. There is an article somewhere on it
Had a tko , hated the way it shifted - broke 4th gear cluster with my 7k plus shifts
Had rockland standard gear make it a “ tranzilla” spec . Still hated it
The tkx has the same style front bearing plate as a t56 and used the same style roller bearing I believe. They also share some of the same internal design. There is an article somewhere on it
At this point the TKO is a known quantity, i think anyone planning on shifting past 6500rpm shouldn't buy one. Back in the day it was the only choice and had to have all kinds of mods to handle high rpm.
I run mine to what i'll guess is about 6500rpm often and it's been fine. Though i really don't know exactly how accurate my stock gauge is with the adapter. I might be able to plug in a scanner into the ODBII port and read it that way, but i haven't tried it.
If you were to ask if i would rather have a tko or tkx I think the answer is easy, the tkx, but i also think it depends on your budget and needs. At $1500 without the need for high rpm (which is probably 95%+ of this forum) the tko is probably a good deal.
I run mine to what i'll guess is about 6500rpm often and it's been fine. Though i really don't know exactly how accurate my stock gauge is with the adapter. I might be able to plug in a scanner into the ODBII port and read it that way, but i haven't tried it.
If you were to ask if i would rather have a tko or tkx I think the answer is easy, the tkx, but i also think it depends on your budget and needs. At $1500 without the need for high rpm (which is probably 95%+ of this forum) the tko is probably a good deal.
