I think the Lightning MAF was 42#/hr but you'd need to research that to be sure...
Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory
- Thread starter gkomo
- Start date
That's the not really correct. The LMAF in combination with the Lightning EEC, was designed for 42 lb/hr.
The mass air meter itself is just full scale mass air meter.
Meter's that are "calibrated" to fool an EEC in order to use larger injectors with an EEC intended for smaller ones, cause a resolution loss at lower power settings because they are either sampling from a smaller portion of the air mass or the EEC has programmed to respond accordingly to a given mass of air at a given power setting.
When you're tuning, a 'calibrated' mass air meter is not the best solution. Getting a mass air meter that is consistent with a nice linear transfer curve is the hot ticket.
If you are looking at less than 500 fwhp then an 80mm MAF will do the job especially in a boosted application. They came stock 1996-2004 GT's and the only difference that I know of is the IAC is built into the late 2001 -2004 units. Couple of threads on the Corral that I started when I swapped the Coupe over to the 80mm.
You can buy an 80mm MAF off of car-part.com. On "Select Part" use "Air Flow Meter" out of the drop down. You are looking for one with a 4.6L motor.
Differences between them:
This one as the wiring from a four wire to a six wire MAF:
You will need this adapter or one like it as the inlet side on the MAF is a square flange:
accufabracing.com
I opted for a metal adapter so I did not have to worry about cracking a plastic one when tightening the clamp on the silicone coupler.
You can buy an 80mm MAF off of car-part.com. On "Select Part" use "Air Flow Meter" out of the drop down. You are looking for one with a 4.6L motor.
Differences between them:
This one as the wiring from a four wire to a six wire MAF:
You will need this adapter or one like it as the inlet side on the MAF is a square flange:
Mass Air Filter Adapter 60mm to 90mm Ford - Accufab Racing
Light weight billet aluminum CNC machined mass air filter adapter which directly bolts to many Ford OEM mass air systems, such as Cobra, Lightning, Ranger and other Ford
accufabracing.com
I opted for a metal adapter so I did not have to worry about cracking a plastic one when tightening the clamp on the silicone coupler.
Thank you for the great write up and links. Would the Cougar 70mm MAF housing with my stock meter work great with a tune? I know it would be better than stock but also not trying to buy parts over and over.If you are looking at less than 500 fwhp then an 80mm MAF will do the job especially in a boosted application. They came stock 1996-2004 GT's and the only difference that I know of is the IAC is built into the late 2001 -2004 units. Couple of threads on the Corral that I started when I swapped the Coupe over to the 80mm.
You can buy an 80mm MAF off of car-part.com. On "Select Part" use "Air Flow Meter" out of the drop down. You are looking for one with a 4.6L motor.
Differences between them:
This one as the wiring from a four wire to a six wire MAF:
You will need this adapter or one like it as the inlet side on the MAF is a square flange:
Mass Air Filter Adapter 60mm to 90mm Ford - Accufab Racing
Light weight billet aluminum CNC machined mass air filter adapter which directly bolts to many Ford OEM mass air systems, such as Cobra, Lightning, Ranger and other Ford
I opted for a metal adapter so I did not have to worry about cracking a plastic one when tightening the clamp on the silicone coupler.
Intake cooouuld be changed at a later date. Is the 70mm housing a good middle ground if I use the stock intake manifold for a while and upgrade to like a TFS street burner intake later on down the road? This all assumes a stock throttle body for now as well as I’d have to figure that out too.Why an 80mm MAF with a stock intake?
Why not use the stock one with boost?
I would hold off on all of that stuff until you're ready to modify the entire intake tract; manifold to filter element.
For me it was due to my timer telling me to get a bigger MAF as the motor needed more air but it’s NA which is way different than boost. The 80mm is 3.5” so that worked with the inner fender part of the cold air kit I had on the car. I ended up redoing the induction on the car here as I ran out of air again with the 331 past 6500 rpm. It was the adapter I used the first time I put the MAF in the car. With age comes wisdom.
I would agree that a stock 55mm MAF would be fine with a stock intake boosted as that is the whole point of a supercharger or turbo. Stock motor, add some moderate boost, and 500 hp.
So yes the 70mm unit will work fine on a stock motor plus a little more.
So many years ago I bought a BBK cold air induction kit (CAI) in chrome and it has hung around on the car since then.
At that time it was bought and installed the car a 75mm Pro-M Bullet MAF so the kit worked pretty well. Several years down the road I sold the Pro-M and 24 lb/hr injectors and installed a 80mm MAF off of a 2001 Mustang GT and 42 lb/hr injectors. To do this I had to get a flange adapter for the upstream side of the 80mm MAF so I could couple the elbow that goes into the inner fender to it. Works well and the ID's matched up really well. However, to get the...
At that time it was bought and installed the car a 75mm Pro-M Bullet MAF so the kit worked pretty well. Several years down the road I sold the Pro-M and 24 lb/hr injectors and installed a 80mm MAF off of a 2001 Mustang GT and 42 lb/hr injectors. To do this I had to get a flange adapter for the upstream side of the 80mm MAF so I could couple the elbow that goes into the inner fender to it. Works well and the ID's matched up really well. However, to get the...
I would agree that a stock 55mm MAF would be fine with a stock intake boosted as that is the whole point of a supercharger or turbo. Stock motor, add some moderate boost, and 500 hp.
So yes the 70mm unit will work fine on a stock motor plus a little more.
Replaced my EGV valve and sensor today. Was getting code 34 so hopefully this will clear that. Pretty simple job, of course both tabs broke on the sensor when removing it from the original EGV sensor. But it went on snuggly on the new sensor.
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Ah I watched a YouTube video on it and it was titled EGV which I assumed was Exhaust Gas Valve, lol EGR Valve it is. Either way, replaced now. Kept my OEM one just in case, looks like they are serviceable.
One thing i noticed that was different between the new EGR Sensor/Valve compared to the old one was the old sensor used Nylock nuts to attach to the valve whereas the new one just uses small bolts. I'm wondering if i should have used some Blue Loctite on the bolts, or just periodically check them for tightness?
Nice, well the new EGR valve/sensor cleared my code 34. Now i just have Code 67 which i just need to install the Neutral Gear Selector sensor in the trans. Hopefully that clears that then i can finally run KOER tests.
Also got two new rear tires (Continental Extreme Contact Sport 2's) put on this morning. Was hoping it would get rid of my rhythmic thump thump thump. It HELPED, but i'm starting to think the seller sold me 4
ty tires. So i now need to put two new front tires on and see if it gets rid of the thumping.
Also got two new rear tires (Continental Extreme Contact Sport 2's) put on this morning. Was hoping it would get rid of my rhythmic thump thump thump. It HELPED, but i'm starting to think the seller sold me 4
ty tires. So i now need to put two new front tires on and see if it gets rid of the thumping.
So a factory T5 5.0 car will have the NGS wiring for the NGS switch that installs into the T5 top cover that has the shift rail and forks attached to it. Did someone remove the switch in the top plate or does it have a T5 91-93 top cover that does not have the switch in it? I did a lot of research to figure out why my 93 did not have the wiring for the NGS switch and found out the 91-93 four cylinders did not come with that harness however it is easily added.
So do you not have the wiring or is the switch missing out of the top cover or does the top cover not have a provision for the switch?
So do you not have the wiring or is the switch missing out of the top cover or does the top cover not have a provision for the switch?
Sorry I may have used the wrong acronym again, I think I was referring to the neutral sensing switch as shown in this photo:
Which I think is located at the forward top of the transmission per this photo? I just googled code 67 fox body and a few different articles referenced this sensor.
They are referred to as neutral sensing switch and neutral gear switch. The one thing they are not is a neutral safety switch as they have nothing to do with the start circuit.
This is what I ordered and plan on installing:
Is this located where the above photo says ‘neutral safety switch’ and the photo is just mid-labeled?
That will install in the top cover and go from the switch to the connector on the harness that comes through the trans tunnel.
This is the harness that plugs into the body harness behind the driver kick panel. It then runs under the carpet and over to the trans tunnel. The end on it are for the VSS, reverse lights, and the NGS switch.
This is what I had to buy and install as my car is a 1993 was a four cylinder originally so there was no connector for the NGS switch.
FH-061 Mustang Manual Main Trans Harness 87-93
This section of harness connects the main vehicle harness to the transmission area. Does not include short harness at transmission. See FH-055. Manufactured with factory correct connectors and terminals, quality crosslink automotive grade wire and high temp covering. This matches factory...
www.ronfrancis.com
This is what I had to buy and install as my car is a 1993 was a four cylinder originally so there was no connector for the NGS switch.
