Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory & Home Remodel

[Noobz347]

I've finally reached the part of my Project where funding has reached the point of 'can't just buy what i want when i want' phase. I've been looking at TB/EGR spacers (65mm and 70mm) which i can buy in the $300 range. BUT, i figured i'll wait until i decide on what i want to do with the MAF/Injectors as well and do it all at once after i've saved up a bit. For now, i am at the 'lets just get this thing running and driving smoothly' phase and be happy with the s/c.

For the intake i've been researching and think (with the whole engine rebuild idea + the TFS heads i have sitting on the shelf) to do a TF Street Burner intake (70mm opening) so probably will go with a 70mm TB/EGR when that time comes. Then that snowballs into a bigger MAF and bigger injectors which snowballs into removing the FMU and doing a real tune, which snowballs into will my T5 handle the power at that point, etc. etc.

For the immediate future, i'm looking at getting these valve cover gaskets replaced, replacing my high/low pressure PS hoses and flushing the system (i checked the fluid yesterday and its straight up brown, and the hoses are slowly leaking), and i still have the motor mounts i need to put in.

If this rebuild is 'not for a bit yet' I would highly suggest keeping your eye out for good deal on a GT-40 Tubular intake (not a Cobra).

Even if you don't end up using it... It's money in the bank. If you do.... It's still one of the best N/A Street intakes, out there.

And I mean... I looks freaking awesome.

 

[gkomo]

If this rebuild is 'not for a bit yet' I would highly suggest keeping your eye out for good deal on a GT-40 Tubular intake (not a Cobra).

Even if you don't end up using it... It's money in the bank. If you do.... It's still one of the best N/A Street intakes, out there.

And I mean... I looks freaking awesome.

Unless something catastrophic happens, i'm probably a few years out from the whole engine rebuild/build up. So ya i could keep my eyes out for other intakes such as the tubular.

 

[Noobz347]

 

[AeroCoupe]

So with the super charger could you not use the TFS R intakes and it make better power? Just asking as I have no idea. Just seems like the GT40 / Cobra / Explorer would be more restrictive with a SC.

 

[gkomo]

So with the super charger could you not use the TFS R intakes and it make better power? Just asking as I have no idea. Just seems like the GT40 / Cobra / Explorer would be more restrictive with a SC.

I don’t think I can use the R intakes due to SMOG restrictions, that’s why I was leaning towards the Street Burner model. That one may flow more in comparison to the others mentioned.

 

[AeroCoupe]

Ahhh, being you live in a communist state then the R would not work.

Cali is a beautiful state but F their politics.

 

[gkomo]

Ahhh, being you live in a communist state then the R would not work.

Cali is a beautiful state but F their politics.

I'm right there with ya, but it is what it is. Thankfully lots of options even meeting emissions. Plus i have time, who knows maybe CARB will be defunct by the time i build the engine.

 

[gkomo]

Well as I was sitting scratching my head on the pulley alignment issues, I decided to reread @nicholase thread and saw he used the Dayco laser alignment tool. So in my desperation to get this right I ordered one for myself. Hopefully this will take the guessing out of this process.

 

[nicholase]

Did you do this?

Good. I figured that would help.

If you can't completely eliminate the squeal with just the tensioner I steered you to I suggest leaving it float (for now) and move to the alternator.

This is a similar situation. Remember earlier when I suggested tightening just the long bolt that secures the alternator to the main bracket. Then carefully making sure the bottom L bracket doesn't pull it out of parallel when you snug it up? Same deal. That L bracket is like the water pump stud for the tensioner. A very small change can create or eliminate a squeal.
Loosen that L bracket and make sure it's not pulling the alternator out of parallel at all. Now you know how little it takes to make a nasty squeal.

Remember it's made for a factory alternator. You don't have one. You have a 130a alternator that is actually so large it required grinding your smog pump to fit. Chances are you will need a little loving there. You might need to bend the L bracket slightly, or elongate the holes. Small, small adjustments.

I really feel between these two things you'll completely eliminate it. Heck, you might clear it up with just the tensioner.

Good luck with it.

I have other ideas, but it’s not worth mentioning until you eliminate those two things.

Also from here on out continue to start the car with the SC belt off. You really need to verify which belt is causing the issue. Maybe you did and I missed it. But just keep the SC belt off until you stop the squeal completely. You're just going to have to needlessly take it off for all these adjustment anyway. It might take you a few tries.

 

[gkomo]

Did you do this?


I have other ideas, but it’s not worth mentioning until you eliminate those two things.

Also from here on out continue to start the car with the SC belt off. You really need to verify which belt is causing the issue. Maybe you did and I missed it. But just keep the SC belt off until you stop the squeal completely. You're just going to have to needlessly take it off for all these adjustment anyway. It might take you a few tries.

No I still haven’t loosened the alternator bolt or the L bracket. When I did all the ‘straight edge’ alignments the alternator pulley both lined up exactly with both the crank pulley and the smog pump pulley (photos in an above post). But with the laser tool it should be more exact than the furniture trim piece I was using.

That’s why I haven’t bothered messing with the alternator just yet, I have no discernible reason to based on my findings. Everything should be aligned to the crank pulley correct?

But you are correct I also haven’t started the car with the s/c belt off to eliminate that as a possibility. My problem is I usually only have time to work on it when I can’t turn the car on.

Otherwise, if no one has read my post about the PS pulley being noticeably cockeyed, I’m almost thinking I need to replace the pump because I believe the pulley shaft is not straight and I did notice some fluid leak from the shaft seal (due to said misalignment). Since I have new PS hoses coming I’m thinking it would be a good time to replace the pump itself. Will need a pulley puller tool for that job. RockAuto has a reman motor craft pump for like $100 with core and estimated shipping costs.

 

[gkomo]

And don’t worry I never ignore advice, it’s all tucked away in my brain. Just prioritizing what I can do when. Like I still need to test my NGS switch with a multimeter per @AeroCoupe instructions like 15 pages back lol

 

[gkomo]

Have you checked the switch itself? Disconnect the connector and use a DVM set to continuity which is #11 in this image

When the trans is in neutral I believe the switch is closed (meter will read continuity and typically generate a tone) and when in any gear the switch is open (so the meter will read no continuity and there will be no tone).

It could be that the switch is still good and someone got into the trans and forgot or did not install the ball that trips the switch.

So if you can determine the switch is good or bad this may save time and money.

Ok my last post kind of made me get off my butt and do this. So with key on, car in neutral i get a tone when putting the MM in the pins of the NGS switch. With the car in first gear, i do not get any tone. So is this telling me the switch itself is working properly?

Hmm, i ran KOEO again, this time only getting code 34 and 10, no 67. I previously replaced my EGR valve/solenoid and that got rid of 34 but i had 67 lingering. Now my 34 is back but my 67 is gone.

 

[gkomo]

Ran KOER test again, no more Code 21. My new ECT must have fixed that... good news. Now its only showing 34 and 44.

34 is baffling me because i replaced the EGR valve/solenoid, unless the EGR spacer itself is all clogged up? I do plan on taking that apart when i do the valve cover gaskets and cleaning it out.

44 i'm hoping the new SMOG tube clears that which will be replaced during the valve cover job as well.

 

[AeroCoupe]

Ok my last post kind of made me get off my butt and do this. So with key on, car in neutral i get a tone when putting the MM in the pins of the NGS switch. With the car in first gear, i do not get any tone. So is this telling me the switch itself is working properly?

Yes sir that indicates the NGS is working as intended.

 

[gkomo]

Makes sense now that my 67 is gone.

Down to just EGR related codes, so nothing too concerning.

 

[gkomo]

Ok i can confirm the squeal is still there with the s/c belt removed, so its not that belt. I'm also now getting like a harmonic high pitched sound that starts/ends with the belt squeal as well. Its almost like the sound you hear when someone rubs there finger along a wine glass rim.

My belt alignment laser tool should be arriving soon.

 

[gkomo]

Got my ‘pile o parts’, including the dayco laser alignment tool.

Just in time for a busy weekend with family in town… of course!

 

[gkomo]

Alright had some time tonight to mess with the laser alignment tool. To no one’s surprise, @nicholase was onto something with the alternator pulley, it did seem slightly off kilter once the laser was put on it, so I put a washer in between the ‘support bracket’ and the alternator itself to push it forward slightly (you can kinda see the added washer up on the top left of the photo):



Checked crank to smog pump and alternator to smog pump, all looked good. Here is smog pump to water pump and as much of the tensioner I could get:



And A/C to crank and idler, also looked all good.



So tomorrow I will start her up again and see if the washer on the alternator helps.

I will say, the dayco tool isn’t super easy to use only because it doesn’t just fit every pulley correctly (like the circumference shape isn’t the same as the pulleys on some) and the alignment piece didn’t fit into the pulley grooves that well. So there may be some +/- on the measurements. Also the new crank/supercharger pulley isn’t magnetic so I had to hold it against it, kind of a drag.

However, the added alternator washer did make it look much better.

 

[gkomo]

Well haven’t done much with the car so here’s a photo:



I did start taking apart the center console to run the wideband wiring down the shifter/transmission hole but haven’t gotten very far with that project.

 

[gkomo]

Well, hell yes!

Got to take the Beast Jr. out in her first shakedown drive after the S/C install and everything else I’ve done since. She did fantastic! Maybe because i haven’t driven it in a long time but wow does she feel fast! Not much difference down low, but i did a couple 4K+ rpm runs in second and third and you can really feel the supercharger wake up. I never saw more than 3lbs of boost on the gauge (eyeballin it) but I didn’t go all out to redline. Really just wanted to get her out and see if she ran and check for leaks when I got home. So far nothing is dripping after being home for a few minutes.

Proof she lives!



And as far as the belt, I don’t think it’s pulley alignment I think I just have belt slip. On one of the higher rpm pulls I heard the belt start to squeal, but never before. It still squeals at startup just for a second, but I wonder if it’s just the belt slipping getting One or multiple accessories going. I don’t know according to my laser alignment tool they are all anligned and the high rpm squeal/noise at least leads me to believe it may just be belt slippage, but I’m no expert.

Anyways, I’m stoked.