Don't buy MAC equal length headers, They suck to install.

i've bought 2 sets of new mac shorties both equal and unequal over the years and never had a problem with them, like already stated some people just get the bad one in the bunch, but you can't complain there one of the cheapest headers out there and it shows in their design. individual flanges rather than a single solid one. You get what you pay for next time buy a qualit header like JBA, or have some customs fit ones and see what you'll pay for a set of kooks.
 
I did learn that I could pick up a set of allen key header bolts today and I am going to change out all those hex heads to allen keys. But, my biggest bitch was the spark plug on driver side 3rd back. I don't know my cylnders, but I cannot get a socket in there PERIOD. I spent 3 hours so far cutting apart a plug socket shortening it so I can get a little tightness on the plug. WtF are you guys talking about that you never had any trouble? I don't believe you!!!!! I am not a wiz at installing headers but this is not like rebuilding motors or anything. Am I supposed to install the plugs before the headers? The instructions (I could wipe my butttt with them) said to remove plugs before install.

Why is the mass market stuff different and so crappy that I have to work 16 hours to install a set of headers? I paid $220 for these headers so I wouldn't say that these are just some cheap junk. If so why does the box advertize the best performance products you can buy? I just don't see how spending 500 + on a set of Kooks or JBA's would make me any happier or would be any easier to install on a stock motor. This is all wrong.

And by the way, I have HTS coating all over too! I sent a nice email about all this stangnet stuff to MAC but doubt they give a chit.
 
$220 man you got ripped than i paid $169 for equal lengths and $139 for unequals. I can say honestly I haven't had problems with mac stuff over the years. Only problems is if you buy a set of used headers they will warp and installing them can be hard on another car. As far as that hts coating goes is its really a joke, many people get confused and believe its a ceramic coating but its not, more of a heat paint if anything to prevent rust a little longer.

By me saying you get what you pay for, I meant if you bought a set of jba, there QC is way better and designed to fit better than a cheapo mac product. JBA headers $589 whereas mac are $169 see what i mean. And kooks forget about it your looking at 600-800 beans for a set, but they will fit like a glove and give you all the clearance you'll need to remove plugs and not burn boots.

As far as other products go the mac prochamber just owns and the install was easy with the removable flange., the MAC h-pipe i used to have was a pain in the ass to install though wouldn't reccomend that but as far as the headers go I never had a real problem with them.
 
I have mac longtubes on my 90. I love the individual flange deal, but the fitment sucked. The steering shaft runs through the tubes and hit/ got stuck on the headers. I had to get a flaming river solid shaft to fix that problem. Thats my only complaint, but next time I will buy a ceramic coated better fitting header.
 
I have had several sets of MAC headers. Everything from unequal length to equal lenght shorties all the way to 1 3/4" long tubes. Utter dissapointment with every one. :notnice: The last headers that I owned from MAC was the 1 3/4" LT's for TFS High Ports. Paid $420.00 with shipping. I had to use a sledge hammer to get them to fit and when I took them off I was going to try to sell them because I had spent $420.00 on them and decided to throw them away so that no one else would hate me for selling them crap. The garbage men took them away and I never saw them again.
 
to get the headers in on the driver's side of my 94. we moved the master cylinder out of the way (didn't disconnect the brakes lines just the 2 nuts that hold it to the booster) and it went in easy after that.
 
Damn I just ordered those before you posted this 20+ years ago. It took me and my friend all day to get them installed. I still have them on my car. They are covered in rust but not leaking. Not using a flange plate across all the tubes was the dumbest thing ever. Looking back I would have just taken off my stockers and had them coated.
 
I had 1 5/8th mac long tube headers installed with a mac h-pipe with cats on my 1991 5.0 coupe back in 1997 and they are still holding up nice no rust only thing I changed was the header gaskets one time. Other then that I love them and never had any leaks
 
These are my MAC Equal Length Shorty headers I bought back in 03. They don't have a solid flange which made installing them a huge PITA. I wanted to coat them but if they come off I'm just buying a set of coated regular shorty headers.
 

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These are my MAC Equal Length Shorty headers I bought back in 03. They don't have a solid flange which made installing them a huge PITA. I wanted to coat them but if they come off I'm just buying a set of coated regular shorty headers.

I dunno man. If you're [really] concerned about the coating then maybe, buy a set of uncoated headers, fit them into the car. Beat, bang, bend, and grind wherever you need to, to make them fit and [then] send/take them in to be coated.
 
I hated the MAC 1-3/4" long tubes on my T-Bird. Buddy grabbed them when the 306 got destroyed from a valve coming apart (Early AFR 185's with the two piece valves) and he ended up tossing them in the metal recycle bin. I moved to custom long tube headers on that car with the 351W and will say that they are awesome but the hit to the wallet was not.

I have BBK shorty equal lengths on the Coupe and they will not be coming off anytime soon unless I can find a set of unequal length 1-3/4" but I am not beating the bushes for a set. List of things I did not like and fixed on the BBK's:

1) The collector end (ball) needed to be opened up 1/8" all the way around. They measured 2-1/4" and I was able to open them up the additional 1/8" and the X-pipe socket still covered and sealed to them. If you do this be sure to bolt the mid-pipe up to the headers and mark them so you know where you can take material out and still get a seal.
2) The welds on the inside of the primary tubes at the flange that bolts to the head were just ugly and blocking air flow. Took a carbide cutter and opened them up quite a bit.

Did I gain any hp? Who knows but I had the time and it made me feel better. Other than those two things the BBK's have been great. They seal, plug wires do not require boots, and you can get to the plugs pretty well. I will say that I do not feel like equal length shorties gain you squat over unequal length and the unequal length headers are far easier to deal with as far as install, spark plug access, and they don't take up as much room which helps with working on other stuff around the motor.

I will be the first to say that long tubes would get more out of my combo but for me its not worth all the hassle of working around them i.e. starter access, speedo cable routing to keep it from melting, and transmission / clutch servicing (they just seem to get in the way for me). The installation is a pain in the ass compared to long tubes for the average driveway mechanic (a lift makes them cake) and I believe you need to extend the O2 wiring but that it not a huge deal.
 
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I dunno man. If you're [really] concerned about the coating then maybe, buy a set of uncoated headers, fit them into the car. Beat, bang, bend, and grind wherever you need to, to make them fit and [then] send/take them in to be coated.
I was told the shorty headers with a solid one piece flange install way easier than the ones without (like my MAC headers).
 
Those are what I should've went with originally! Do those use the same H pipe as equal length? I don't want to have to change my H pipe.

That depends but in general, if you're replacing a set of equal length shorties with unequal length shorties, they [should] fit. You might need to loosen up some of your other hardware and rubber-maletize some stuff.

It my be just because of what I'm used to hearing but IMO, the unequal sound better but again... I think it's just what I'm used to hearing.
 
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That depends but in general, if you're replacing a set of equal length shorties with unequal length shorties, they [should] fit. You might need to loosen up some of your other hardware and rubber-maletize some stuff.

It my be just because of what I'm used to hearing but IMO, the unequal sound better but again... I think it's just what I'm used to hearing.
lol at "rubber-maletize" The equal lengths took me and a buddy half a day and involved prybars and a hammer.
 
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Those are what I should've went with originally! Do those use the same H pipe as equal length? I don't want to have to change my H pipe.
Don't know, I purchased an H-pipe on line ( I will try to find the company) and everything bolted right up with the LMR tailpipes..
Shorty headers were not around when I was young so these were my first experience with them and they are so nice...
I can't imagine fighting equal lengths unless you have a full out race car going for .10 of a second quicker time....
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