89ripper
Founding Member
Ive never heard anyone doing that, however as long as the tps is functional and can still provide a "sweep" should be good to go. How much clearance did you need?
Progress Thread 12th Owner: My '93 Notchback Restoration & Performance Build
- Thread starter Habu135
- Start date
Well, my current TPS has no front bolt and still rubs the underside of the hood. I'll probably go big and sand all of that lower oval portion away.
You mentioned the TPS provides a "sweep". Can you expound on that? Your explanation may help in my determination of how much I reduce the TPS height.
89ripper
Founding Member
Its a potentiometer. Essentially the action of the throttle blade opening and closing provides the ecu with voltage range signal (within .5 to 1.25 v idle voltage) (WOT near 4.6 -4.8)
I hope i didnt confuse maybe "sweep" is not the right word...as long as the throttle blade/tps is free to move you should be alright.
I hope i didnt confuse maybe "sweep" is not the right word...as long as the throttle blade/tps is free to move you should be alright.
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There is a sensor housed in the plastic casing that is made up of a resistor and coil.
If you're shaving just plastic where the tabs are, you should be fine. If you're shaving down the top of the sensor and break into the case that houses the coil then it's toast, even it it works for a little while. If you get through enough of the casing that you can see the "spinny parts" from the top, it's toast.
If you're shaving just plastic where the tabs are, you should be fine. If you're shaving down the top of the sensor and break into the case that houses the coil then it's toast, even it it works for a little while. If you get through enough of the casing that you can see the "spinny parts" from the top, it's toast.
The variable resistor is potted against the top case of the sensor. On some aftermarkets, you can actually see the potting material. Depending on the sensor you may or may not be able to shave much off. You'll have to try it.
In your case (and this may sound like a silly idea...
I might try to loosen the hood hinges and latch and try to bump the entire hood [up] juuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuust a hair. If it works then you can adjust your bump stops accordingly.
I only mention this because it sounds like you need just a skosh.
I might try to loosen the hood hinges and latch and try to bump the entire hood [up] juuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuust a hair. If it works then you can adjust your bump stops accordingly.
I only mention this because it sounds like you need just a skosh.
Valid suggestion, but I've already added a washer between the hinges and underside of the hood. The hood sits flush with the top of the quarter panels and cowling and I'm trying to retain the stock Fox Body Iines.
gkomo
now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft
Damn, just read all 42 pages of this Progress Thread. Great work going on here.
Couple questions, being in California, is your car smog legal? even before your 363 swap, how did you run long tubes and a different MAF?
I feel like you didn't even address your fantastic paint job. One post was old silver, the next was nice shiny black, lol Maybe i accidentally skipped that page.
Did you ever install the K-member when you did the engine swap?
Couple questions, being in California, is your car smog legal? even before your 363 swap, how did you run long tubes and a different MAF?
I feel like you didn't even address your fantastic paint job. One post was old silver, the next was nice shiny black, lol Maybe i accidentally skipped that page.
Did you ever install the K-member when you did the engine swap?
Car is legal to drive on the road. There are numerous things I do to ensure smog legality.
Regarding the paint, I've had five Fox Bodys throughout the years. All were black in addition to a white/black '12 Boss 302. Returned to the Fox Body platform as I love the lines of the notchback although this one gets dirty as soon as I tap the brakes or back out of my garage.
K member is still not purchased or installed. I'm about to drop a bunch of money on a twin electric fan setup, and probably having my rear main seal replaced due to the engine installer overfilling the oil.
The k member will be the "last" big project and I expect it to cost at least $2K. Im still working through some bugs after installing my new engine like the TPS rubbing on the underside of the hood. I like to have a project completely resolved before I move onto the next one.
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Haven't posted in a while as I've been in Hawaii on military status.
My car is on my mind though and I continue to do upgrades from time to time when I make it home on a long weekend.
My next mod/purchase is to install twin electric fans. I'm asking for input on what you guys suggest. The easy route is LMR "Contour" fans, even though they're Contour style. I saw that Rock Auto has something similar. I'm just looking to finally complete the cooling piece and not have to worry about overheating again if I get stuck driving home late from a Summer Cars and Coffee event.
My car is on my mind though and I continue to do upgrades from time to time when I make it home on a long weekend.
My next mod/purchase is to install twin electric fans. I'm asking for input on what you guys suggest. The easy route is LMR "Contour" fans, even though they're Contour style. I saw that Rock Auto has something similar. I'm just looking to finally complete the cooling piece and not have to worry about overheating again if I get stuck driving home late from a Summer Cars and Coffee event.
Contour fans should work fineHaven't posted in a while as I've been in Hawaii on military status.
My car is on my mind though and I continue to do upgrades from time to time when I make it home on a long weekend.
My next mod/purchase is to install twin electric fans. I'm asking for input on what you guys suggest. The easy route is LMR "Contour" fans, even though they're Contour style. I saw that Rock Auto has something similar. I'm just looking to finally complete the cooling piece and not have to worry about overheating again if I get stuck driving home late from a Summer Cars and Coffee event.
Got the car another tune and dyno. Picked up 30 hp and 40 tqs since last year's dyno. 400/397 is not bad for an "off the shelf" Ford Performance 363.
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Added an LX badge as I'm a sucker for originality.
Such a small item, but it bothers me how long spark plug wires come from the manufacturers. They're practically lying against the side of my engine bay. So I researched the process and spent $22 to purchase a spark plug wire crimper. Easy project, learned a new skill and cleaned up the engine bay a bit.
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