Progress Thread Progress Thread- From6to8's 1994 Cobra Supercharger install
- Thread starter from6to8
- Start date
And I'll just throw this out there:
Your plug wires need to be in tip-top shape. Zero leaks with zero suspicions.
Your plug wires need to be in tip-top shape. Zero leaks with zero suspicions.
Yes and I mean the wires that I have on the car now are not super old with the NA set up. I'm going to go ahead and get some new ones anyway but the car under non-boosted situations should drive at least the way it did when it was strictly NA. There were a few wires that had a few questionable things about them that's why I put on two of my old Ford racing wires and the distributor cap off the other car just for diagnosing so all in all just strictly driving the car normal it should be driving decent consistently..
Tomorrow the coil is first followed by the TFI module and then just checking battery voltage and everything making sure there's nothing glaring staring me in the face eliminating those possibilities
Yeah.... Things happen during install. Wires get disturbed... Maybe they're not as 'not old' as we thought they were...
You know the drill.
My 'not so old' FMS wires ended up being not so good. What did I go to...
I think I went to a set of cut-to-fit Taylor wires (because of the KB).
You know the drill.
My 'not so old' FMS wires ended up being not so good. What did I go to...
I think I went to a set of cut-to-fit Taylor wires (because of the KB).oh yeah no doubt I know whatcha mean lol. I have the Taylors red 45 degree angles. I was always skeptical about having to crimp spark plug wires though I don't mine crimping other things but I understand you gotta do whatcha gotta do sometimes...Yeah.... Things happen during install. Wires get disturbed... Maybe they're not as 'not old' as we thought they were...
You know the drill.
My 'not so old' FMS wires ended up being not so good. What did I go to...
Can a positive wire straight from the battery be ran to the fuel pump and then ground the fuel pump straight to the body of the car, is that's sufficient to fire the car up just for testing purposes?Yeah.... Things happen during install. Wires get disturbed... Maybe they're not as 'not old' as we thought they were...
You know the drill.
My 'not so old' FMS wires ended up being not so good. What did I go to...
And I found this while googling some stuff earlier. This guy said this is how he tested his inertia switch or rather when his was bad. By your reaction it doesn't seem like you think this should work. I'm not having this issue because my inertia switch is supplying power but I'm just curious as to the paper clip thing that he did LOLYeah.... Things happen during install. Wires get disturbed... Maybe they're not as 'not old' as we thought they were...
You know the drill.
My 'not so old' FMS wires ended up being not so good. What did I go to...
Attachments
I think what you're getting at is the "how". It looks like the way he tested it does not account for current draw.
If you test with the pump [running] you get to see if there is a problem with voltage drop when the pump turns on. If it drops for a second and recovers, that's usually fine. If it drops and doesn't or it fluctuates a lot... that's not so good.
So I'm assuming running a wire straight from the battery to the pump and then grounding the pump to the chassis it's fine to get the pump to turn on. I know you would have to actually unplug the fuel pump wire to get the pump to cut off though. I could actually maybe do that and see if there is any difference in how the car runs and performs as there should be nothing interfering with it and causing a voltage drop am I correct?
Just getting started with some things for today in the first thing I tried is the coil I have not fired it up yet so about to start that and some other stuff but if I get to the point of wanting to test the fuel pump to see about voltage I may just do that first and drive the car and see if I notice any difference. If I do I might actually continue to test it that way even on a long drive and maybe just even put a toggle switch on it so that I can turn the fuel pump off when I need to. If it gets to that point in the car does not have any issues then I will remove that setup and go back the inertia switch and if the problem comes back then I know that's an issue.
Yeah you can hot wire it to see if the drop is a the pump. That's good info to have.
I would [still] to the paper-clip method if the pump checks out. This will tell you if you have a wiring issue.
Yes definitely that's what I was going to do next after I try that when I get to that point if I get to that point as in verifying if it's at the pump or the inertia or somewhere along the lines.
So here are my notes from what I just did so far today. Put on the coil for my 95 started the car the back is at-14 in the car sounds about normal at startup and idling. FP is 36 the needle is moving slightly. Vacuum - 11 after a few minutes the air if you is at 20 ;Did go down to 19 then 20 again. Battery volts is 14.60 and both wires in the trunk is 13.60
Drove the car and it felt better but still a slight miss. At a 5-minute stop the votes at inertia is 13 plus and the battery is 14 plus. The next thing I'm probably going to just swap the TFI module since I have another one lying around just to see and then take it for a drive. I have a video that I took of the harmonic balancer it looks fine to me but I want to see some opinions on it. Also suspecting the distributor possibly and lastly dropping the fuel pump to verify that the hose clamps did not somehow come off even though I'm very positive that they are tight well at least I know I tighten them.
The air fuel driving it today it did go to 13 something 14 something while I was driving but it also was at 19 something for a little time and show 20 for a little time. So I know it's very possible that one of these things I just mentioned as in trying next potentially if they are faulty could cause the air fuel to do that right?
How can I send you a video of this distributor I don't think I can upload it here but I will try. If not I can send it to your cell
If you mess with the TFI module, don't forget that the surfaces need to be cleaned and new thermal paste applied.
Host it on Youtube then post the link to your threads.
Host it on Youtube then post the link to your threads.
No I am just swapping one that I had laying around it's an extra one that I had so actually it's off of another car and it's already attached to the metal housing that gets bolted down. But I know what you are talking about in reference to taking the module itself off of the metal housing.
Anyway man so check this out. I'm reading off my notes. So I changed the TFI module the car is still warm at 180°, the fuel pressure is 32 n vacuum - 11.
Man as soon as I took off I noticed an immediate difference car drove good and strong I took it on about a nice 10 minute drive and man this that is how the car is supposed to drive. I mean it drove sweet very very nice and the only thing I noticed was I'm only making 6 lb of boost for whatever crazy reason but it made 11 on the dyno. So I'm going to call the tuner in the morning just to ask if the changes he made when I sent the chip in for him to make a few changes if for some reason it's going to make less boost.
If he says possibly then what I'm curious is if I let him if I send the chip back to him to put the original file back on from about 3 weeks ago when I had it dynoed if he thinks it'll make 11. Maybe those changes did not need to be made and it was the TFI module all along the issue I was having.
So I'll see what he says that I'm kind of torn because of car drives real good I mean it pulls like I wanted to pull even outside of boost it drives real good and real strong so I may not even mess with it lol. But it depends on what he says . How to bet it on driving it to work tomorrow but I won't I will just drive it again tomorrow though when I get home and make sure it drives the same I'm not even going to touch it anymore tonight lol
Found this issue this morning so diagnosing what all I have to do to replace at least this line. Looks like it connects to the fuel pump so I'll probably have to drop the tank and replace just that line. The two lines is riveted at a point to the underbody so I'll have to drill it to remove and see if I need to put a self-tapping thread back in that spot or next to it.
That tail probably moved at some point and got close to the fuel line so I will have to see if I can move it or take it to an exhaust shop let them adjust.
i was hoping I could slide the fuel filter bracket over a hair and get it away from the exaust but might have to tap after I drill holes. It kind of look like the oem holes are tapped and might be a metal washer thing in behind not sure.....
Attachments
Actually I should have paid attention to the signs of the exhaust rattle and had I got up under there and checked I would have saw the exhaust was a little too close and eventually started touching that fuel line. Anyway going to drop the tank now and I just took the other fuel line off the my other old car that's taken apart and I'm going to swap it
I'm pretty sure the best way to refasten the fuel tank bolts is to pretty much use a ratchet because an impact could strip the that piece on the underside of the underbody that the boat fastens to inside the hole. I usually remove kind of slowly with an impact but then when I go to fasten I kind of still go a little slowly to get it started and then finish with an impact....
