Progress Thread Progress Thread- From6to8's 1994 Cobra Supercharger install

Have you upgraded the factory fuel pump wiring?
No I haven't and for my research there were people who ran the 255 and we're fine on stock wiring.

So over the last week really I have been trying different parts some spare parts that I had lying around some off of my other car and everything and it seems my distributor was an issue because at some point the car got to where it wouldn't even start up. It would crank over fine but it wasn't catching and I had the 94 cobras engine out in the garage and so I took the distributor out of it and the car fired up.

With the other distributor when I checked the voltage while the car was running I was only getting 5-6 volts. I later discovered to that just pushing the prong of the meter straight up into the connector was best. I'm pretty sure used that method and only got 5 to 6 but I will double check the next time I need to try out a distributor maybe on my other car or something I will verify whether that distributor was shot.

So today I had on the list of some things to try and the first thing I wanted to do was try a new coil that I got from AutoZone pretty much just for testing purposes LOL. Put on the new duralast dizzy fired the car up and it's still had an issue with when it starts the fuel pressure is fine at 34 but the car for about a minute after it fires up and it sounds smooth it goes to where it almost sounds like it wants to cut off and then after that it picks up and just levels off.

So I shut it down and the next thing I was going to do was go ahead and plug in the other chip the tuner sent me where he made some changes to the startup tune. It's still started up with the same thing I just described but when I drove the car initially it kind of hesitated taking off but after about a couple of minutes it leveled out. Got to AutoZone because I actually had another part to pick up to try which I may not use, but when I left AutoZone and drove it home on about the 5-minute drive that drove real good I didn't notice anything negative and when I got home and checked the volts at the pump with the car running, it was 12.86
 
I've owned multiple 94-95 cars and the factory wiring is not sufficient for a 255lph pump. Ignore those other posts. It was suggested on the Corral and here that you change the pump wiring. Those who suggested it have BTDT. In this thread you received excellent advice in this post :
https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums...ercharger-install.930799/page-17#post-9456192

I had issues like yours and even hurt a fuel pump by not doing what is suggested in that post. I documented in in a thread on the Corral.
I also installed a heavy duty pump plug and pigtail that attaches to the plug on the top of the tank. Notice what Quantum states about pump wiring in this add.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Quantum-...251866?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=5462

I also installed a SVE fuel pump hanger from LMR. It has larger gauge wiring going directly to the pump. Notice that it uses 12ga wire. You can buy AN fittings that will adapt the -6an fittings to the steel fuel supply and return lines.
https://lmr.com/item/SVE-9407AHP-K/86-97-mustang-sve-6an--high-performance-fuel-hanger

Wiring is one thing that can't be done on the cheap. The above parts allowed my turbo'd engine to get steady fuel pressure without hurting the pump with inadequate wiring. The fuel pump hanger isn't a must but I like that it has the larger gauge wires.
 
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I've owned multiple 94-95 cars and the factory wiring is not sufficient for a 255lph pump. Ignore those other posts. It was suggested on the Corral and here that you change the pump wiring. Those who suggested it have BTDT. In this thread you received excellent advice in this post :
https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums...ercharger-install.930799/page-17#post-9456192

I had issues like yours and even hurt a fuel pump by not doing what is suggested in that post. I documented in in a thread on the Corral.
I also installed a heavy duty pump plug and pigtail that attaches to the plug on the top of the tank. Notice what Quantum states about pump wiring in this add.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Quantum-...251866?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=5462

I also installed a SVE fuel pump hanger from LMR. It has larger gauge wiring going directly to the pump. Notice that it uses 12ga wire. You can buy AN fittings that will adapt the -6an fittings to the steel fuel supply and return lines.
https://lmr.com/item/SVE-9407AHP-K/86-97-mustang-sve-6an--high-performance-fuel-hanger

Wiring is one thing that can't be done on the cheap. The above parts allowed my turbo'd engine to get steady fuel pressure without hurting the pump with inadequate wiring. The fuel pump hanger isn't a must but I like that it has the larger gauge wires.
Cool I appreciate the insight and at some point I can definitely see upgrading the wiring. I'm going to drive my car a little later and see how it does and if it does great the way it did earlier then I think for right now I am good to go and finally after the supercharger install I will feel confident that things are only up and up and I can focus on my other stroker build
 
It seems that you have your mind made up. You've received excellent advice so consider yourself warned. Hopefully your pump doesn't overheat during a WOT pass.
It won't be pretty.
No not necessarily that My mind is made up I just want to get the car functioning right now. I don't drive my cars I don't dog my car is out every time I get in them I just want to get the car functioning because the the things that I the issues that I was having wasn't even at boost it was just normal driving which I do most of the time anyway. So I just want to get the car running normal like it should which now hopefully it seems I'm on my way with that, and then you know get everything but in the back up two was put away etc etc and then I got plenty of time to focus on upgrading the fuel wiring and stuff like that but for right now it's just a very little small things.

By the way I appreciate everyone's insight about everything and the advice so I definitely take that and take those things into consideration
 
I've owned multiple 94-95 cars and the factory wiring is not sufficient for a 255lph pump. Ignore those other posts. It was suggested on the Corral and here that you change the pump wiring. Those who suggested it have BTDT. In this thread you received excellent advice in this post :
https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums...ercharger-install.930799/page-17#post-9456192

I had issues like yours and even hurt a fuel pump by not doing what is suggested in that post. I documented in in a thread on the Corral.
I also installed a heavy duty pump plug and pigtail that attaches to the plug on the top of the tank. Notice what Quantum states about pump wiring in this add.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Quantum-...251866?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=5462

I also installed a SVE fuel pump hanger from LMR. It has larger gauge wiring going directly to the pump. Notice that it uses 12ga wire. You can buy AN fittings that will adapt the -6an fittings to the steel fuel supply and return lines.
https://lmr.com/item/SVE-9407AHP-K/86-97-mustang-sve-6an--high-performance-fuel-hanger

Wiring is one thing that can't be done on the cheap. The above parts allowed my turbo'd engine to get steady fuel pressure without hurting the pump with inadequate wiring. The fuel pump hanger isn't a must but I like that it has the larger gauge wires.
By the way yeah I mean I definitely can see doing all of this just as a preventative measure on this car eventually and also the 95 I'm building.
 
Fasterthan also yeah I see where you said your car was doing similar things until you upgraded the wiring. So yeah if it starts back doing that then that's really the last thing that I have not done yet so it will definitely be done sooner than later if that's the case. About to go take it on a nice little Cruise now and I will see how it does there and back
 
Well the rain started about 5 minutes after I started driving even though it was kind of light it called for more so I turned around. But ended up going on about a quick little 7-minute round trip drive and she still drove nice and strong. I still have about squeal at startup even though I went with the little bit longer belt and with the tensioner I took off the other car it feels good and snug but maybe that tensioner is just on the way out or something to where it's causing just a squeal on startup.

I have a new tensioner so one day it's coming week I'm going to put it on and see if the squirrel goes away and if it does not go away then I need to look at one of the other pulleys as causing an issue up on startup only because it's only doing it on startup. Everything looks like they are straight in line and feels fine when I roll them by hand and so just want to get that little annoying thing out the way.
 
@Noobz347 I remember you saying you had voltage drop issues. So you first diagnosed it when you were not getting 12 volts at the fuel pump? If that's the case that's why you added the booster pump correct?

Or when did you notice voltage drop was it under boost? Enlighten me on that whole thing again when you diagnosed and found voltage drop at whatever interval and decided to add the BAP...
 
Wait you need upgraded fuel pump wiring with a 255lph pump? Is this a SN95 specific thing because I’m running stock wiring with a 255lph pump…
That's the thing I have had people told me that they did not upgrade their wiring and they are fine. My tuner actually told me he's running a hellcat 540 on his box with OEM wiring.

But I think folks just want to be safe overall and just go ahead and do it. I just asked noobs his situation with when he noticed the voltage drop because I am getting 12 plus volts almost 13 at the pump with the car running

Actually the fox wiring is smaller than the sn95 by the way
 
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Actually a guy who has helped me along the way who did a vortec right before I did mine I'm waiting his reply on whenever he drives his car again. He says he has a fuel gauge so I asked him whether he is getting any fuel pressure drop after he has driven the car for a while and everything has warmed up. He's running a 3:40 pump without upgraded wiring but he says he is probably going to do it later at some point
 
Here is the whole f..ucking point of the upgraded wiring (Noobz jump in here if needed). When you are tuning a motor consistent fuel delivery is a must so the fuel tables actually work and the AFR can be maintained in the desired range. That’s it no more no less.

When the voltage to the pump is not consistent then the ECU is going to play hell trying to control the AFR. Even though the OEM ECU’s can adapt with an MAF it’s only so much and it can only adapt that much for all the sensors not each one.

I don’t understand people that want to make 500+ fwhp and decide to gamble a motor that they have a chunk of money and time in on a fuel system that to do right is literally peanuts compared to any potential motor damage.

One last thing and I’m off my soap box, you get the car tuned and it’s tuned for what you showed up with that day. If you have components that are not rock solid that tune isn’t going to repo d when things change so be aware of that. Garbage in garbage out.
 
Here is the whole f..ucking point of the upgraded wiring (Noobz jump in here if needed). When you are tuning a motor consistent fuel delivery is a must so the fuel tables actually work and the AFR can be maintained in the desired range. That’s it no more no less.

When the voltage to the pump is not consistent then the ECU is going to play hell trying to control the AFR. Even though the OEM ECU’s can adapt with an MAF it’s only so much and it can only adapt that much for all the sensors not each one.

I don’t understand people that want to make 500+ fwhp and decide to gamble a motor that they have a chunk of money and time in on a fuel system that to do right is literally peanuts compared to any potential motor damage.

One last thing and I’m off my soap box, you get the car tuned and it’s tuned for what you showed up with that day. If you have components that are not rock solid that tune isn’t going to repo d when things change so be aware of that. Garbage in garbage out.
cussin here are we lol......... :spot:

yeah i get all of that what you just said about the tuning process and the pump and not disputing that. I do know my tuner said he had to pull fuel when I asked him if I was getting enough fuel. He said I was and he had to pull some fuel back.

As for this 200k mile engine and all that I know now after hand, I would've considered doing that before hand just to be safe.

I might actually take a trip up to the tuner and let him further check some stuff for the things i since corrected just to see but since I plugged in today the 2nd tune change he mailed me for startup fuel tables/enrichment, the car is running a whole lot better.....
 
by the way it seems my distributor was on the way out even on the dyno possibly. When I left that day to load it on the trailer, it actually hesistated and hiccupped going from one parking lot to the next at a few miles per hour maybe 2-5 ish...

I should've turned went right back and let him work that out. Changed the dizzy out the other day and now with the other chip put in today it's doing much better....