I have been fighting the tuning battle with this car for too long. Any help would be great. I believe all of my ignition settings are correct. My idle is awful and I really think I got a awful tune from the microsquirt factory. I got it to idle great for awhile at one point but the car would not drive at all wihout intake backfiring. My AFR seems to be all over the place. I cant get timing stable. I really dont have the money to pay someone online 500 dollars to tune it. Car hasnt been running in a few years. THe car has a stage three trickflow. Attached is the data log of the car running when at operating temps. As well as my piss poor tune that I have loaded onto it. Thanks again
93 5.0 Microsquirt with Stage 3 trickflow tuning issues
- Thread starter marxpreston11
- Start date
Tune is a mess. The AFR table it too lean, and your VE table is not smooth. You have high numbers next to low numbers. That's going to swing your AFR wildly. You also do not have EGO correction turned on, so the EGO won't make any adjustments.
I made some changes. I added a bunch of fuel and tried to smooth it out a bit. Also, richened up your AFR table as it was way too lean. Also fattened up your warmup-enrichment, and your after start enrichment. Turned on your EGO correction to 10% starting at Coolant temp 170 degrees.
I can't tell if this will work for you but it should be a bit richer and smoother. You are going to have to adjust the VE cells where your engine idles at (once it's fully warmed up). Basically if your idle is hunting you want to raise and lower the VE numbers a tad to try and smooth that out. You might have to play a bit with what AFR it likes to idle at. For example, i idle my engine at 14.0 and play with the VE cells to keep it smooth right around that AFR. Any leaner and it makes it unstable. If your cam is pretty rowdy you will likely need it a bit richer at idle as well.
But you are going to need to find a tuner, or need to really know how to make adjustments. DO you have the paid version of TS with VE analyze? Once you get the idle set you will want to tune your WUE and then start to drive around and make adjustments to the VE table.
There's a lot of other stuff to go through as well. I'm not a tuner, so I didn't spend a whole lot of time refining this as i couldn't really check your log file. For some reason you don't have AFR as a logged profile and I can't seem to see why? I have MS3, so there are some differences with what i'm used to vs megasquirt.
You can do a "compare tunes" and see the changes i made and compare to your tune. I just drafted up that VE table based on some educated guesses, but it won't be perfect, so don't fire it up and start romping on it. It will need work
I made some changes. I added a bunch of fuel and tried to smooth it out a bit. Also, richened up your AFR table as it was way too lean. Also fattened up your warmup-enrichment, and your after start enrichment. Turned on your EGO correction to 10% starting at Coolant temp 170 degrees.
I can't tell if this will work for you but it should be a bit richer and smoother. You are going to have to adjust the VE cells where your engine idles at (once it's fully warmed up). Basically if your idle is hunting you want to raise and lower the VE numbers a tad to try and smooth that out. You might have to play a bit with what AFR it likes to idle at. For example, i idle my engine at 14.0 and play with the VE cells to keep it smooth right around that AFR. Any leaner and it makes it unstable. If your cam is pretty rowdy you will likely need it a bit richer at idle as well.
But you are going to need to find a tuner, or need to really know how to make adjustments. DO you have the paid version of TS with VE analyze? Once you get the idle set you will want to tune your WUE and then start to drive around and make adjustments to the VE table.
There's a lot of other stuff to go through as well. I'm not a tuner, so I didn't spend a whole lot of time refining this as i couldn't really check your log file. For some reason you don't have AFR as a logged profile and I can't seem to see why? I have MS3, so there are some differences with what i'm used to vs megasquirt.
You can do a "compare tunes" and see the changes i made and compare to your tune. I just drafted up that VE table based on some educated guesses, but it won't be perfect, so don't fire it up and start romping on it. It will need work
I will definitely load the tune it there. Yes I do have the paid studio version so I will see what auto tune does for me.
I was told by a few people to turn it off to try and fix something I can't remember. But they wanted me to turn it off until I fixed the ignition I think actually. Must not have turned it back on.
I will let you know and thank you very much for the help, I'll be putting tune in the second I get home.
I just loaded in the tune and fired it up, letting it warm up to temps. how long should i let it idle with the ego control making adjustments before making any of my own? It idles way smoother thats for sure, still a tad rich around 11.5 to 12 with a 13.8 target.
Warmup will be rich. Probably will be around 12.0 when it first fires, but as warmup enrichment tapers off, you should start to get to 13.0-13.5 AFR as you approach 180 degrees. I had to guess a little so I purposely went rich. You’ll prob need to take out some fuel
I set the o2 correction to only start at 170
Degrees.
But if you are at 180 degrees and still
Under that AFR target, go into your VE table and find the cells you are idling at and pull a tiny bit of fuel out and let it settle. Remember your starting point in case you need to go back. But don’t change anything under 180 otherwise you are fighting the warmup enrichment adder as well
Once you get a stable idle, with the engine warmed up go into the auto tune and have it adjust all cells except idle. There is a way to LOCK your idle cells so it is not making changes to those and screwing up your idle. I just usually say no changed under 1500rpm and 180
Degrees. Then drive around easily and let it adjust the cells
It won’t get it perfect but it will get you close.
I did not touch your timing table. I think that could be adjusted as well. A little less timing near idle.
You might have to change the AFR target at idle. Batch fire setups tend to like mid 13s AFR. I did 13.8 but if it starts to get a bit unstable might have to shoot for 13.5 at idle.
I set the o2 correction to only start at 170
Degrees.
But if you are at 180 degrees and still
Under that AFR target, go into your VE table and find the cells you are idling at and pull a tiny bit of fuel out and let it settle. Remember your starting point in case you need to go back. But don’t change anything under 180 otherwise you are fighting the warmup enrichment adder as well
Once you get a stable idle, with the engine warmed up go into the auto tune and have it adjust all cells except idle. There is a way to LOCK your idle cells so it is not making changes to those and screwing up your idle. I just usually say no changed under 1500rpm and 180
Degrees. Then drive around easily and let it adjust the cells
It won’t get it perfect but it will get you close.
I did not touch your timing table. I think that could be adjusted as well. A little less timing near idle.
You might have to change the AFR target at idle. Batch fire setups tend to like mid 13s AFR. I did 13.8 but if it starts to get a bit unstable might have to shoot for 13.5 at idle.
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Ok, wife called me inside... I'll message around more tomorrow, do you have any idea how the best way to make sure my throttle blade is set correct?
I had target idle at 850 and it was in the 1000s. I didn't really want to mess with the fuel table with the idle being that high.
I set base timing, have the offset set correct and verified with timing light. I slightly backed out the screw on the throttle adjustment, and it died.
Mind you I have the stock ecu and it idles perfect and sounds amazing right around 750-800.
Thanks
I had target idle at 850 and it was in the 1000s. I didn't really want to mess with the fuel table with the idle being that high.
I set base timing, have the offset set correct and verified with timing light. I slightly backed out the screw on the throttle adjustment, and it died.
Mind you I have the stock ecu and it idles perfect and sounds amazing right around 750-800.
Thanks
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