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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

10 Second sn95 ?

  • Thread starter Thread starter SHOJOE
  • Start date Start date Dec 11, 2008

SHOJOE

New Member
Dec 11, 2008
20
0
0
Maryland
Dec 11, 2008
#1
  • Dec 11, 2008
  • #1
My name is Joe, I live in Maryland and am 20 years old. I am on a quest for 10's in an sn95. At the moment I dont even have a mustang I drive a SHO. In the past I had two mustangs a 1995 GT and a 1985 5.0 (really miss those cars). I am going to build a strip sn95 looking for mid 10's and want everyones point of view on whether you think my setup would get me there. And what I should do and not do. I am not the richest kid (work at pepboys), but I have patience for the build. This is something I really have been longing for. This is just some of the things I had in mind to get on track.

Chasis

v6 sn95 chasis
UPR Front end k-member kit
UPR Rear End kit Anti roll, ALCA's, AUCA's, torque boxes etc
Moser 31 spline 8.8 spool kit with axles, spool, c-clip eliminators
UPR Full length subframe connectors
Manuel steering rack
GT Rear Springs (airbag in right rear)
Aluminum Driveshaft
Solid Motor mounts
Full roll cage
4.10 or 4.30's (in rear end?)
Lakewood 90/10 Front
Lakewood 50/50 rear

Engine

351W .030 over
Rebuilt bottom end built to factory specs except forged pistons
AFR 185 heads Or TFS
Edelbrock Vic Jr Intake (I want carbed!)
Holley 750 Carb
BBK L/T's
1.6 Scorpion RR's
Jay Allen Custom Grind Cam
Nitrous 100 first stage and 200 second stage
Redneck Racing c4 tranny

I need help on my fuel system not to sure what regulators and pumps I should look in to.
 

Yobi1Kanobi

Member
Apr 9, 2003
559
0
16
Dec 11, 2008
#2
  • Dec 11, 2008
  • #2
If its just going to be a strip car with a 351 based motor. Why not go Carb
 

Zero Signal

Active Member
Feb 24, 2003
2,633
2
46
Tucson, AZ
Dec 11, 2008
#3
  • Dec 11, 2008
  • #3
I'm wondering about the 'factory spec' bottom end. I'm thinking you'll need 500+hp to get in that range, but I'd imagine that would be pushing a stock bottom end too far, even with forged pistons.


BTW, he DID mention he's going carb.
 

SHOJOE

New Member
Dec 11, 2008
20
0
0
Maryland
Dec 11, 2008
#4
  • Dec 11, 2008
  • #4
Zero Signal said:
I'm wondering about the 'factory spec' bottom end. I'm thinking you'll need 500+hp to get in that range, but I'd imagine that would be pushing a stock bottom end too far, even with forged pistons.


BTW, he DID mention he's going carb.
Click to expand...

I see alot of stock bottom end 302's going 10's. I chose the 351 route becasue of the added rigidness of the block and the added cubes. I am going carb'd
 

BlackVert

15 Year Member
Oct 3, 2003
5,589
9
98
Bethesda, MD
Dec 11, 2008
#5
  • Dec 11, 2008
  • #5
by bottom end "factory specs" are you saying you would be staying at 351 and about 9:1 compression?

seems to me that stroking it to 393 or 408 would get you there alot more easily, epsecially if you are staying NA

also, you might consider pro magnum rockers because they fit under stock height valve covers, which might help with the fitment of the intake and carb and stuff like that

lastly, if you are using hydraulic lifters but you get a block that was not made for hydraulic lifters, you will need to add link bar lifters to your list of things to get. i'm not sure if that holds true for solid roller lifters or not.

i actually have a motor that would be a great start for you, and i'm in maryland too, but i hear you about the finances thing, and it is probably out of reach for you at this time. i also have a 750 carb and a rpm air gap intake and some other carb stuff for it because i was going to go carbed at one point

i'm selling my engine (and car) to finance the restoration of my 67 fairlane
 

Yobi1Kanobi

Member
Apr 9, 2003
559
0
16
Dec 11, 2008
#6
  • Dec 11, 2008
  • #6
nevermind read too fast....Anyways yeah I wond probably go with more compression and like a stroker
 

Venom351R

Founding Member
Apr 27, 2002
4,548
40
98
MAINE
Dec 11, 2008
#7
  • Dec 11, 2008
  • #7
Are you going the Nitrous route just b/c of the cost factor compared to boost?
 

Killercanary

The car that set the bar.
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
5,676
1
76
Altoona, PA
Dec 11, 2008
#8
  • Dec 11, 2008
  • #8
I don't see a reason it wouldn't go WAY into the 10's with the spray on it. I'd expect it to be a mid-high 120mph car NA if you kept the weight down as it appears you will. With the squeeze on it, it should trap in the 130mph range if setup correctly.

I'd personally go with an AFR 205 at a minimum and an Ed Curtis cam, but that's me.

Is the car in your sig your old one? if so, what did it run? I see it had skinnies on it so I assume you had it to the track.
 
M

moostangvert

New Member
Dec 3, 2008
47
0
0
Dec 12, 2008
#9
  • Dec 12, 2008
  • #9
Killercanary said:
I don't see a reason it wouldn't go WAY into the 10's with the spray on it. I'd expect it to be a mid-high 120mph car NA if you kept the weight down as it appears you will. With the squeeze on it, it should trap in the 130mph range if setup correctly.

I'd personally go with an AFR 205 at a minimum and an Ed Curtis cam, but that's me.

Is the car in your sig your old one? if so, what did it run? I see it had skinnies on it so I assume you had it to the track.
Click to expand...
dead on agree. if i went through the trouble of putting in a 351 based engine, id go to 408 personally. 10's wouldnt be a a problem with a 408 on 200 shot. my buddy omar went 10.80's with a 357 and 100 shot.
 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!
Founding Member
Jan 14, 2001
6,819
64
129
New York
Dec 12, 2008
#10
  • Dec 12, 2008
  • #10
Look up yellow94GT on corral. His 347 runs high 10's n/a on 18" drag radials. 466rwhp.
 
S

sage2k

Member
May 23, 2005
645
0
16
Baton Rouge, LA
Dec 12, 2008
#11
  • Dec 12, 2008
  • #11
cheapest thing to do is buy a car that is already partly modded!
 

SHOJOE

New Member
Dec 11, 2008
20
0
0
Maryland
Dec 14, 2008
#12
  • Dec 14, 2008
  • #12
sage2k said:
cheapest thing to do is buy a car that is already partly modded!
Click to expand...

-Some guy just offered me a 1987 lx vert with a 331 stroker for my SHO. Sounds a bit to good to be true. I have not seen the car in person yet.

-My old 95' GT in my sig ran 12.9 on motor. Just a bolt on car with 4.10's.
 
F

fish254

Founding Member
Sep 20, 2002
237
0
16
Brooklyn NY
Dec 14, 2008
#13
  • Dec 14, 2008
  • #13
i would say 331 and some juice would be the cheapest way!!
 
R

red dragon95

Member
Aug 13, 2008
50
0
6
north las vegas
Dec 15, 2008
#14
  • Dec 15, 2008
  • #14
a 351 will handle more poer than 500.i have a friend with a 95 lightning complete stock motor and a nice turbo and it lays 660 to the tires.he also has the 2000ish lightning and make a tad over 700 with a vortech on it.
 

SHOJOE

New Member
Dec 11, 2008
20
0
0
Maryland
Dec 16, 2008
#15
  • Dec 16, 2008
  • #15
red dragon95 said:
a 351 will handle more poer than 500.i have a friend with a 95 lightning complete stock motor and a nice turbo and it lays 660 to the tires.he also has the 2000ish lightning and make a tad over 700 with a vortech on it.
Click to expand...

Nice.

Yes, I am going the nitrous route instead of turbo because of the cost factor. Unless I am able to get my hands on a nice used single turbo setup.
 
L

lilhoppin95

New Member
Apr 28, 2007
39
0
0
huber heights,ohio
Dec 16, 2008
#16
  • Dec 16, 2008
  • #16
I went 10.89 with 347 and little d-1 procharger!Now in the 9s with F-2 and 408.The more you spend the faster you can go!!
 
M

moostangvert

New Member
Dec 3, 2008
47
0
0
Dec 16, 2008
#17
  • Dec 16, 2008
  • #17
lilhoppin95 said:
I went 10.89 with 347 and little d-1 procharger!Now in the 9s with F-2 and 408.The more you spend the faster you can go!!
Click to expand...

aint that the truth!!!i got tired of spraying all the time plus refills get expensive!!! ive used a whole bottle on 1 hit!hahaha. the charger is nice, you dnot have to worry about anything (to a certain extent) but i got a small shot of gas on top
i had a 150 shot on my car. it was good for about 4 or so runs down the track keeping goood constant bottle pressure
 
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