In my opinion you don't need a brake booster. Throughout my brake mod project I was especially concerned about this item, but after speaking to and driving my friend's '89 notch with nearly the same brake kit I didn't see a need. My car brakes very hard and I don't see how a larger booster would help.I throw my .02 in there.
I’ve been collecting eBay parts and refinishing them for this swap. Between my front PBR calipers (not cobra but upgrade nonetheless), and my spindles, I’m in for $215 from ebay, and a few more dollars for pistons, seals, and caliper to spindle bolts. Another $70 for brand new hubs. So call it $300. I also got a 1”bore MC from an older model Lincoln for $25. (hoping this works). Still need the booster.
I was real close to buying that rear drum axle swap off LMR. I hate these wheels and can’t wait to see it the way I imagine it, with the wheels I want.
However, I am now going to continue on the disc path and do the rears too. Much like @Habu135 , I want to do this once, and do it right. I want it lowered too, so I may even wait to get those parts so I can really just do it once!
I have more parts to collect for sure, and because I’m ‘86, I need new front struts too (more money). Depending on the struts i choose, and other misc. (brake lines, booster, hardware, prop valve, etc) I’m done with the front for prob between 6 and 7 hundred. In the end, if I’m patient enough, I’ll hopefully be happy with the end result, and know I did it right. I’m watching daily for rear calipers that I can refinish, but I may end up just buying remans. We’ll see.
I guess what I’m trying to say, if you have the means, don’t skimp out. It it means waiting a bit until you do, you’ll be much happier with the car in the end. And there are definitely ways to get an upgraded setup without breaking the bank on an all inclusive kit.
Baer is the bees knees . My car will eventually be converted over to it . My buddy who is a dealer has stopped his 7 second true street car without the chute with them . They are made for heavier street cars. Small compact 4 piston caliper too . @OlivethefetIf money wasn't an option I would go with Baer. Not sure the difference in Wilwood versus Baer. I will mention though that I was at a car show recently and was talking to a guy with a '69 Camaro with a LS1 and full Road Course of America suspension and brake setup. He had C6 rear rotors/calipers and front C6 ZR1. He told he went with C6 brakes for the money and because they were proven. Seemed like a valid argument. I could also argue the whole keep my Chevy or Ford all Chevy or Ford. Interestingly enough, he had Raybestos pads.
What's your thoughts on post #263?Baer is the bees knees . My car will eventually be converted over to it . My buddy who is a dealer has stopped his 7 second true street car without the chute with them . They are made for heavier street cars. Small compact 4 piston caliper too . @Olivethefet
He does do discounts on systems and better deals if it’s something anyone wanted I can put you in contact with him
I have noticed it and wondered the same myself . Granted they stop great but why not design it to sit deeper in the rotor .What's your thoughts on post #263?
I could buy a whole new setup in order to stick it in the fenderwell, but I like the filter being visible as it's part of the engine and I do know they have those "shields" somewhere.Why not stick it in the fenderwell away from the heat? I saw some testing (I can't remember where) that showed how much the engine bay heat affects power.
Of course, it's a PITA to get to, but.
Nice dyno #'s, BTW.
One thing I noticed post brake upgrade is that the new calipers and pad don't cover the entire 13" rotor -see attached screen shot. While this photo is not of my car, it is the same concept and you'll see the inner diameter (approximately 40%) of the rotor is unused in braking. Why did Ford go this way when designing this rotor and caliper assembly?
So much good information, but I get to the end and realize I could have gone with a different approach and gotten a better result. O well.Ford didn’t design it. PBR did. The only input Ford had was the spacing on the bolts to connect to the spindle.
This Caliper design was originally used with a 12” rotor in the 80s. That’s why surface coverage isn’t that great.
PBR updated the design in 1995 with the C5 style Caliper. It’s stiffer, wider to accommodate wider rotors, and had larger pad area to work with 13” rotors.
I run C6 style brakes with Baer brackets and you can see how the pad contact area is greater. It helps regulate rotor temp due to more contact area of the pad
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