One thing to check is the window motor drive bushing. They are plastic, and eventully just disintegrate and keep the window motor from moving. The are cheap, and usually found in the help isle at the parts store.
Here is good overview of replacing the bushings:
<- That site is for Thunderbird super coupes, but the method for replacing the bushings is the same as a fox mustang.
Edit: Spelling
Here is good overview of replacing the bushings:
<- That site is for Thunderbird super coupes, but the method for replacing the bushings is the same as a fox mustang.
Edit: Spelling
Thanks pats91. Those instructions will be very helpful. The window motor looks very similar to a rotary engine.
I did just some initial research/shopping around on LMR. Their motors are some $13.00 more (+ shipping) than Amazon for the exact same item. Looks like I have another weekend project.
I did just some initial research/shopping around on LMR. Their motors are some $13.00 more (+ shipping) than Amazon for the exact same item. Looks like I have another weekend project.
The first time I had issues with a motor, I took it out and jumped it across the battery to see if it would work. It did. I put it back in and got another 6 months out of it.
Finally changed it out when I had it apart to do my actuator. Probably would still be running.
Just my .02
Thanks. I noticed it worked intermittently about a month ago and mysteriously started up again. Recently when it stopped I tried whacking the door panel and there was no change. I went ahead and bought a new one today on Amazon -$36. I have a credit on Amazon, so I'll just replace it, grease the tracks and hopefully not have to deal with it ever again.
I've started to research the paint and body process. Something I didn't know: Collision Shops don't do restoration work. So I eliminated three of the local shops I had heard were good. Of the three remaining I'm getting quotes of around $8,000. That's for a paint color change from silver to black without painting the engine bay. My car has hail damage on the roof, different (non original) front quarter panels and minor dents elsewhere. Just out of curiosity I called some western Arizona shops and they're about half the cost. Thanks Kalifornia!
Well, I swapped out the driver's side power window motor tonight and after a metallic pop sound (the gear popping into position) the window flew up and down with ease. I even remembered to add white lithium grease to the gear prior to installation. Nice little project.
The old one was pretty much seized up.
The old one was pretty much seized up.
I'm starting to research paint and body and am getting quotes of $5,000-$5,500. Granted that is California prices and C.A.R.B. approved paint. For those who have done paint and body is this a reasonable estimate? I always have the choice to drive to Arizona or Nevada for cheaper prices and better paint.
That’s about what it cost. I’m in the trade. Complete disassembly/reassy, body work, fixing whatever rust issues that may come up, prep, refinish and materials. @Davedacarpainter?
I had my first ‘86 GT repainted in ‘92 -‘93...... maybe ‘94. It was taken down to the metal, completely smoothed out.... the works. Cost me almost $3k. (got $800 from a lady who backed into the driver fender at a gas station, so I went all the way). Anyway, at the rate everything else has gone up, I’d say that’s not bad.
ALL of the suspension is brand new. Bilstein shocks and strut and FMS B springs. The pax rear is 3/4" higher than the driver side rear. The driver side front is 5/8" lower than the pax side front. I know the car was a quarter mile car for some time. I removed and measured the rear anti roll bar and it is taller at its connection point by 1/4"+ on the pax side.
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