Progress Thread 12th Owner: My '93 Notchback Restoration & Performance Build

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
5,376
4,463
203
42
I was MIA in this thread. Just for future reference...the radio hole for a fox is already double din. No need for the face panel. An aftermarket single din goes in also with no issues....just take the cubby off the factory radio...remove the tabs and slide it under the new radio. No need to screw into the center dash area. It does look clean though. Very glad you got it done and can now rock out into the rest of 2020.
 
  • Sponsors(?)


Habu135

Advanced Member
Jan 10, 2019
671
408
73
40
California
Another Saturday in COVID-19ville. What to do? O, I'll sand my rusty rotors and brake calipers and paint them with high temp VHT in satin black and clear coat. Must... ...remain.....productive.
20200711_162245.jpg
20200711_172620.jpg
 

Habu135

Advanced Member
Jan 10, 2019
671
408
73
40
California
Ran the codes in my car today using the Innova 3145 Ford Digital OBD1 Code Reader. Amongst others I received code 87 "Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Fault". According to the Internet this is a ghost code? My car runs fine and I have no fuel issues. Can someone confirm or deny this?
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
34,007
10,278
224
Massachusetts
For the most part of the car runs (and fuel pump is running) you can ignore it. Usually it pops up on the 86-88 cars that get mass air converted as most guys don’t run the wire to monitor the fuel pump.
 

Habu135

Advanced Member
Jan 10, 2019
671
408
73
40
California
For the most part of the car runs (and fuel pump is running) you can ignore it. Usually it pops up on the 86-88 cars that get mass air converted as most guys don’t run the wire to monitor the fuel pump.
Thanks guys. Ya, the code scanner came up with three. The Fuel Pump Circuit Fault, Emission Canister and high idle. I ran the codes in preparation for a tuning appointment today. Car made 300/302 on a stock block with Trick Flow H/C/I. The car is running very well (good idle, no surging, etc.) and the restoration is officially complete. There's no way I could have done it without this site. Now on to the performance parts.
20200724_110126.jpg
 

Willybill32

Active Member
Jul 16, 2019
193
86
38
Lexington, KY
For the most part of the car runs (and fuel pump is running) you can ignore it. Usually it pops up on the 86-88 cars that get mass air converted as most guys don’t run the wire to monitor the fuel pump.
Interesting, Mustang5L5. Years ago (early 90s) I bought the Ford mass air conversion kit for my '86. I connected everything as directed, except for the speed signal, as my car didn't have cruise control. How do I verify whether or not my conversion is monitoring the fuel pump?
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
34,007
10,278
224
Massachusetts
Interesting, Mustang5L5. Years ago (early 90s) I bought the Ford mass air conversion kit for my '86. I connected everything as directed, except for the speed signal, as my car didn't have cruise control. How do I verify whether or not my conversion is monitoring the fuel pump?

there will be a wire from pin 19 on the ECU to the pink wire on the fuel pump relay under the seat.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Willybill32

Habu135

Advanced Member
Jan 10, 2019
671
408
73
40
California
Post tune I swapped out my old IAC module as the tuner suggested it. Extremely easy process and a calmer idle was noticeable. I suspect swapping out one's O2 sensors and IAC module would clear up 95% of people's surging and hunting idle issues.
 
Last edited:

Habu135

Advanced Member
Jan 10, 2019
671
408
73
40
California
So I think I blew out the head gaskets on my engine. The passenger's side is leaking coolant directly above the starter where the head and block meet and the driver's side has an audible exhaust leak (minor ticking sound). I can't see any reason otherwise that coolant would be leaking from the passenger's side and I thoroughly checked the driver's side exhaust manifold, each individual long tube, connecting point on the head and ensured the spark plugs were tight. Thoughts on my diagnosis? Anything special, or good suggestions on swapping the gaskets? Thanks
 

95BlueStallion

Drop into my dm’s gurrrrrl
10 Year Member
Feb 22, 2007
4,758
2,846
214
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
www.goodreads.com
I would first make sure it’s not coming from a bad lower intake seal, as far as the coolant leak. That happens pretty often. On the exhaust side of things, I use a specific brand of exhaust gaskets called Remflex. They crush, and I have never had an exhaust leak on any car I’ve used them on.
 
  • Like
Reactions: General karthief

Habu135

Advanced Member
Jan 10, 2019
671
408
73
40
California
I would first make sure it’s not coming from a bad lower intake seal, as far as the coolant leak. That happens pretty often. On the exhaust side of things, I use a specific brand of exhaust gaskets called Remflex. They crush, and I have never had an exhaust leak on any car I’ve used them on.
Awesome. Thanks. As I think more about it I remember hearing a very slight ticking sound months ago while I had my tailpipes adjusted as they were hitting my UCAs. Unless you're using a large shot of nitrous these head gaskets have a tendency to fail slowly. I bought this car to tinker with and it's not letting me down.
 

Habu135

Advanced Member
Jan 10, 2019
671
408
73
40
California
My front right caliper and rotor seem to be rubbing ever so slighly. Did the ol' free standing wheel spin test and it rotates quite a bit less than the left front. Also, more brake dust and an audible shreak when i apply the brakes. I'm thinking my pad bedding was not sufficient? Any tips on how to correct this? I'm 100% sure there's no air in the lines and the car brakes straight, but there is clearly a rubbing and higher brake effort on the front right. Front right also locks the tire before the front left. Thanks all.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
17,860
5,799
193
polk county florida
My front right caliper and rotor seem to be rubbing ever so slighly. Did the ol' free standing wheel spin test and it rotates quite a bit less than the left front. Also, more brake dust and an audible shreak when i apply the brakes. I'm thinking my pad bedding was not sufficient? Any tips on how to correct this? I'm 100% sure there's no air in the lines and the car brakes straight, but there is clearly a rubbing and higher brake effort on the front right. Front right also locks the tire before the front left. Thanks all.
You may have a caliper sticking or the rubber brake hose may be bad.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JKWilson61

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
17,860
5,799
193
polk county florida
My pins where rusted up and not letting the caliper slide, just wore down inside pad, outside pad looks new. I'm rebuilding all that junk.
 

Habu135

Advanced Member
Jan 10, 2019
671
408
73
40
California
So I finally got a chance to diagnose my excessive brake dust and screeching noise from my front right brakes. Turns out one of the rubber booties holding one of the pistons has a small tear in it. That explains the excessive dust and locking up at high pedal pressure -one piston was grabbing over the other. Lame that Rockauto only warranties these for 90 days!
15990967294446000267389781818867.jpg
 
Last edited:
  • Wow
Reactions: RaggedGT

Habu135

Advanced Member
Jan 10, 2019
671
408
73
40
California
If your car is misfiring and you've racked your brain trying to figure it out, make sure your spark plug wire isn't contacting the dipstick housing. That is a sure way to get arcing and misfiring.
 
Last edited:

Habu135

Advanced Member
Jan 10, 2019
671
408
73
40
California
Restoration is officially complete as I painted the engine bay and reupholstered my front Cipherauto racing seats within the past month. I found a local upholstery place and was able to match the original style rear seat material at a HUGE savings as compared to LMR. I like the stock look of the pleated seats while also having legitimate bolsters.

I'm thinking next about installing a Maximum Motorsports k member with their tubular A arms, coil overs, etc. I'm thinking the real cost is about $3000 if I do it myself. I'll likely swap my battery to the trunk first as it seems silly to install a k member for the improved suspension geometry and weight savings without also addressing the 40+ pound battery. I figure between the tubular k member, moving the battery to the trunk and removing all the A/C components that removes some 110 or so pounds from the front of the car.

I'd like to hear thoughts on the Maximum Motorsports k member swap. I know they make great parts. I'm looking for tips and post swap thoughts on the positives and negatives of the modification. Thanks all.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20201028-093049_Video Player.jpg
    Screenshot_20201028-093049_Video Player.jpg
    154.8 KB · Views: 19
  • Like
Reactions: RaggedGT