Progress Thread 12th Owner: My '93 Notchback Restoration & Performance Build

90sickfox · Jul 10, 2020

I was MIA in this thread. Just for future reference...the radio hole for a fox is already double din. No need for the face panel. An aftermarket single din goes in also with no issues....just take the cubby off the factory radio...remove the tabs and slide it under the new radio. No need to screw into the center dash area. It does look clean though. Very glad you got it done and can now rock out into the rest of 2020.

Habu135 · Jul 11, 2020

Another Saturday in COVID-19ville. What to do? O, I'll sand my rusty rotors and brake calipers and paint them with high temp VHT in satin black and clear coat. Must... ...remain.....productive.

Habu135 · Jul 27, 2020

Ran the codes in my car today using the Innova 3145 Ford Digital OBD1 Code Reader. Amongst others I received code 87 "Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Fault". According to the Internet this is a ghost code? My car runs fine and I have no fuel issues. Can someone confirm or deny this?

General karthief · Jul 27, 2020

Yeah, them 'ghosts' throw codes around like rich people throw money
reset the computer and run them again, it will likely go away.

Mustang5L5 · Jul 28, 2020

For the most part of the car runs (and fuel pump is running) you can ignore it. Usually it pops up on the 86-88 cars that get mass air converted as most guys don’t run the wire to monitor the fuel pump.

Habu135 · Jul 28, 2020

Mustang5L5 said:
For the most part of the car runs (and fuel pump is running) you can ignore it. Usually it pops up on the 86-88 cars that get mass air converted as most guys don’t run the wire to monitor the fuel pump.

Thanks guys. Ya, the code scanner came up with three. The Fuel Pump Circuit Fault, Emission Canister and high idle. I ran the codes in preparation for a tuning appointment today. Car made 300/302 on a stock block with Trick Flow H/C/I. The car is running very well (good idle, no surging, etc.) and the restoration is officially complete. There's no way I could have done it without this site. Now on to the performance parts.

Willybill32 · Jul 29, 2020

Mustang5L5 said:
For the most part of the car runs (and fuel pump is running) you can ignore it. Usually it pops up on the 86-88 cars that get mass air converted as most guys don’t run the wire to monitor the fuel pump.

Interesting, Mustang5L5. Years ago (early 90s) I bought the Ford mass air conversion kit for my '86. I connected everything as directed, except for the speed signal, as my car didn't have cruise control. How do I verify whether or not my conversion is monitoring the fuel pump?

Mustang5L5 · Jul 29, 2020

Willybill32 said:
Interesting, Mustang5L5. Years ago (early 90s) I bought the Ford mass air conversion kit for my '86. I connected everything as directed, except for the speed signal, as my car didn't have cruise control. How do I verify whether or not my conversion is monitoring the fuel pump?

there will be a wire from pin 19 on the ECU to the pink wire on the fuel pump relay under the seat.

Habu135 · Jul 29, 2020

Post tune I swapped out my old IAC module as the tuner suggested it. Extremely easy process and a calmer idle was noticeable. I suspect swapping out one's O2 sensors and IAC module would clear up 95% of people's surging and hunting idle issues.

Habu135 · Aug 2, 2020

So I think I blew out the head gaskets on my engine. The passenger's side is leaking coolant directly above the starter where the head and block meet and the driver's side has an audible exhaust leak (minor ticking sound). I can't see any reason otherwise that coolant would be leaking from the passenger's side and I thoroughly checked the driver's side exhaust manifold, each individual long tube, connecting point on the head and ensured the spark plugs were tight. Thoughts on my diagnosis? Anything special, or good suggestions on swapping the gaskets? Thanks

95BlueStallion · Aug 3, 2020

I would first make sure it’s not coming from a bad lower intake seal, as far as the coolant leak. That happens pretty often. On the exhaust side of things, I use a specific brand of exhaust gaskets called Remflex. They crush, and I have never had an exhaust leak on any car I’ve used them on.

Habu135 · Aug 4, 2020

95BlueStallion said:
I would first make sure it’s not coming from a bad lower intake seal, as far as the coolant leak. That happens pretty often. On the exhaust side of things, I use a specific brand of exhaust gaskets called Remflex. They crush, and I have never had an exhaust leak on any car I’ve used them on.

Awesome. Thanks. As I think more about it I remember hearing a very slight ticking sound months ago while I had my tailpipes adjusted as they were hitting my UCAs. Unless you're using a large shot of nitrous these head gaskets have a tendency to fail slowly. I bought this car to tinker with and it's not letting me down.

Habu135 · Aug 16, 2020

My front right caliper and rotor seem to be rubbing ever so slighly. Did the ol' free standing wheel spin test and it rotates quite a bit less than the left front. Also, more brake dust and an audible shreak when i apply the brakes. I'm thinking my pad bedding was not sufficient? Any tips on how to correct this? I'm 100% sure there's no air in the lines and the car brakes straight, but there is clearly a rubbing and higher brake effort on the front right. Front right also locks the tire before the front left. Thanks all.

General karthief · Aug 16, 2020

Habu135 said:
My front right caliper and rotor seem to be rubbing ever so slighly. Did the ol' free standing wheel spin test and it rotates quite a bit less than the left front. Also, more brake dust and an audible shreak when i apply the brakes. I'm thinking my pad bedding was not sufficient? Any tips on how to correct this? I'm 100% sure there's no air in the lines and the car brakes straight, but there is clearly a rubbing and higher brake effort on the front right. Front right also locks the tire before the front left. Thanks all.

You may have a caliper sticking or the rubber brake hose may be bad.

Habu135 · Aug 18, 2020

General karthief said:
You may have a caliper sticking or the rubber brake hose may be bad.

Gen, thanks for the initial vector. I viewed a couple YouTube videos based on what you mentioned and it looks like a straightforward fix for a somewhat common problem (sticking slide pin). Thanks

General karthief · Aug 18, 2020

My pins where rusted up and not letting the caliper slide, just wore down inside pad, outside pad looks new. I'm rebuilding all that junk.

Habu135 · Sep 2, 2020

So I finally got a chance to diagnose my excessive brake dust and screeching noise from my front right brakes. Turns out one of the rubber booties holding one of the pistons has a small tear in it. That explains the excessive dust and locking up at high pedal pressure -one piston was grabbing over the other. Lame that Rockauto only warranties these for 90 days!

Habu135 · Sep 4, 2020

$6 caliper (piston) repair kit or $92 remanufactured caliper. Hmmm, that's a tough one.

Habu135 · Sep 7, 2020

If your car is misfiring and you've racked your brain trying to figure it out, make sure your spark plug wire isn't contacting the dipstick housing. That is a sure way to get arcing and misfiring.

Habu135 · Oct 28, 2020

Restoration is officially complete as I painted the engine bay and reupholstered my front Cipherauto racing seats within the past month. I found a local upholstery place and was able to match the original style rear seat material at a HUGE savings as compared to LMR. I like the stock look of the pleated seats while also having legitimate bolsters.

I'm thinking next about installing a Maximum Motorsports k member with their tubular A arms, coil overs, etc. I'm thinking the real cost is about $3000 if I do it myself. I'll likely swap my battery to the trunk first as it seems silly to install a k member for the improved suspension geometry and weight savings without also addressing the 40+ pound battery. I figure between the tubular k member, moving the battery to the trunk and removing all the A/C components that removes some 110 or so pounds from the front of the car.

I'd like to hear thoughts on the Maximum Motorsports k member swap. I know they make great parts. I'm looking for tips and post swap thoughts on the positives and negatives of the modification. Thanks all.

Progress Thread 12th Owner: My '93 Notchback Restoration & Performance Build

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands

Habu135

Habu135

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Habu135

Willybill32

But at least it's tight!

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Habu135

Habu135

95BlueStallion

My assy trans to myself

Habu135

Habu135

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Habu135

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Habu135

Habu135

Habu135

Habu135

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Progress Thread 12th Owner: My '93 Notchback Restoration & Performance Build

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

But at least it's tight!

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

My assy trans to myself

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Attachments

Similar threads

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