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Progress Thread 12th Owner: My '93 Notchback Restoration & Performance Build

  • Thread starter Thread starter Habu135
  • Start date Start date Jul 7, 2019
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Habu135

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#581
  • Nov 28, 2020
  • #581
 
Reactions: Boostedpimp, General karthief and Mustang5L5

Habu135

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#582
  • Dec 5, 2020
  • #582
Big size difference between the 4 cylinder brake booster and the '93 Cobra (Cardone) one.
 
Last edited: Dec 6, 2020
Reactions: Potomus Pete and Cheapskate207

Habu135

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Dec 6, 2020
#583
  • Dec 6, 2020
  • #583
Mustang5L5 said:
Just need to adjust the pedal rod. Pretty simple to do. Max motorsports has some writeups.

if you put your front wheels up and notice they are grabbing, loosen the two bolts on the MC enough to pull it away 1/4” or so and see if they free up.
Click to expand...
Any chance you can attach the link? I tried searching for it and don't find anything by MM other than manual brake pedal swap out articles, etc.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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#584
  • Dec 6, 2020
  • #584
Habu135 said:
Any chance you can attach the link? I tried searching for it and don't find anything by MM other than manual brake pedal swap out articles, etc.
Click to expand...

it’s under their master cylinder adapter kit links

https://www.maximummotorsports.com/assets/install/pdf/brakes/MMBAK-3r5.pdf

There’s also a bunch of YouTube vids on how to do it on misc vehicles that would still apply
 
Reactions: Habu135

Habu135

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#585
  • Dec 6, 2020
  • #585
Finished the brake booster install today. Took me more time than anticipated and I ended up removing my driver's side seat, much of the lower dashboard below the steering wheel, the intake, clutch cable and the windshield wiper motor. I ended up cutting down the two bolts on the passenger's side of the booster and slotting the two passenger side holes. The booster slipped in with a little motivation. The most difficult part was figuring out why the brake switch would not work as before. It would stay upright causing the brake lights to stay on or too far downward and the brake lights would never come on. I ended up using the universal tool - a zip tie.

Overall the Cardone booster gives the car a more traditional and progressive brake pedal. Spongy at first with growing firmness and increased braking capacity as the pedal is pushed. The 4 cylinder booster was always rock hard. I'll have to get used to the new booster.

 
Last edited: Dec 15, 2020
Reactions: Mustang5L5

Habu135

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Dec 15, 2020
#586
  • Dec 15, 2020
  • #586
My car is still exhibiting the previously discussed hesitation at speed. To date I've replaced:
all 8 spark plugs, gapped at .55
all 8 spark plug wires
Oxygen sensors
Cap and rotor
Fuel filter
Coil.

Car idles fine with no surging and returns to idle fine when coming to a stop. MAF sensor was cleaned by me within the last week.. Timing is set at 10 degrees.

Today I ran an extension to my fuel pressure gauge and did not observe any wild swing in pressure while driving it. Pressure was consistent between 38-42 unless I accelerate hard. Then it goes up to 42-44'ish.

The car had a recent valve job so it's mechanically sound. I'm running out of ideas and don't really want to blindly keep throwing parts at it. Thoughts?
 
Last edited: Dec 16, 2020

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#587
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Sorry, can you give us (me) a refresher on when and what happens when it acts up.
Thanks on behalf of members (me) that suffer from crs.
 

Habu135

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#588
  • Dec 15, 2020
  • #588
General karthief said:
Sorry, can you give us (me) a refresher on when and what happens when it acts up.
Thanks on behalf of members (me) that suffer from crs.
Click to expand...
The car seems to get hot and then suffers from a sort of hesitation. I can feel a loss of power and then jerking throughout the driveline that comes from the engines. It feels like early cylinder detonation.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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  • #589
I can figure you have replaced the usual things and tightened the prongs on the ten pin connectors, have you checked the timing chain?
The hot engine 'studder' is rough to pin down but is usually a electrical connection.
 

Habu135

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#590
  • Dec 15, 2020
  • #590
General karthief said:
I can figure you have replaced the usual things and tightened the prongs on the ten pin connectors, have you checked the timing chain?
The hot engine 'studder' is rough to pin down but is usually a electrical connection.
Click to expand...
The salt and pepper shakers are fully seated. Correct me if I'm wrong regarding the ten pin connectors.

I haven't checked the timing chain.

All electrical parts are connected and seem intact.
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#591
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  • #591
Did you take the salt &pepper shakers apart and clean them?
 

Habu135

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#592
  • Dec 15, 2020
  • #592
General karthief said:
Did you take the salt &pepper shakers apart and clean them?
Click to expand...
No. How do I clean them? Dry toothbrush?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
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#593
  • Dec 15, 2020
  • #593
Electrical spary cleaner, take a very small screw driver and spread the prongs a tiny bit and then use a dab of dialectic grease on them.
 
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Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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#594
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Fox Body Mustang 10 Pin Connectors (Salt & Pepper Shakers)

The Fox Body 10 pin connector, commonly known as the salt & pepper shakers, are a culprit of many Fox Body problems. We walk you through what they are, what the
lmr.com
 
Reactions: General karthief

Habu135

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Dec 16, 2020
#595
  • Dec 16, 2020
  • #595
General karthief said:
Electrical spary cleaner, take a very small screw driver and spread the prongs a tiny bit and then use a dab of dialectic grease on them.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I'll hit Ace is the Place today for the electrical spray and dialectic grease.
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
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#596
  • Dec 16, 2020
  • #596
Habu135 said:
Thanks. I'll hit Ace is the Place today for the electrical spray and dialectic grease.
Click to expand...
Be careful with the clips when you pull them apart. They break real easy!
 
Reactions: General karthief

Habu135

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#597
  • Dec 16, 2020
  • #597
Rdub6 said:
Be careful with the clips when you pull them apart. They break real easy!
Click to expand...
One of the very careful previous owners already broke them, but I appreciate it.
 

Habu135

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Dec 16, 2020
#598
  • Dec 16, 2020
  • #598
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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Dec 16, 2020
#599
  • Dec 16, 2020
  • #599
Nothing really jumps out at me. Just clean them up, spread the pins a tad, apply some light dielectric grease and reconnect.
 

Habu135

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Dec 16, 2020
#600
  • Dec 16, 2020
  • #600
Car is still doing it.

The best way for me to get the car to exhibit this behavior is to drive it hard once or twice. This seems to trigger something, maybe a switch, and the car dips in rpms and then acts odd. The best way for me to describe it is a sort of consistent misfire. The car's power decreases and as you accelerate the car bucks a little and surges forward rather than accelerating in a progressive manner. The car has an electric fan, but that is not what I'm feeling (car bucking).

I think the next logical part to throw at it is a new fuel pump.
 
Last edited: Dec 16, 2020
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