Progress Thread 12th Owner: My '93 Notchback Restoration & Performance Build

Have you ever dumped codes during one of these days to see if the ECU is reporting any sensors out of range?

Higher temps mean increased resistance values in wiring/sensors.
I clear codes after each check. I have not checked immediately after noticing it acting up on hot days. I need to do that, although this would be a logical argument to move forward toward that 363 combo. Hmmmm
 
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Had my water pump replaced under warranty yesterday as it was leaking from the weep hole. Mechanic encouraged me to swap out the tensioner pulley as it was making a bit of noise. Easy enough. Is the wear seen on the pulley somewhat normal? The bearing seems to spin fine, but it's a simple fix regardless.
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Replaced the old tensioner pulley with the new one. Big difference in noise. Spinned freely and silently on my finger. Take it for what it's worth. Dayco Tension Pulley #89003. $22.54 on Amazon
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Is it common to have to adjust fuel pressure after installing a replacement fuel pump with the same advertised LPH flow? Respectfully I'm looking for answers based on experience rather than speculation that my old pump flow was weak.
 
I think he means would any typical adjustment be done going from a 150LPH to a new 150LPH.

I don't have have direct experience but i have relatable Mustang pump experience as I do see that effect in industry as i do a lot of flow/pressure stuff.
 
I think he means would any typical adjustment be done going from a 150LPH to a new 150LPH.

I don't have have direct experience but i have relatable Mustang pump experience as I do see that effect in industry as i do a lot of flow/pressure stuff.
Don't disagree, Mike, but I sense the issue is he doesn't have a fuel pressure gauge installed, hence the question. I had to replace my fuel pressure regulator, and had to adjust the pressure when it was installed, easy for me since I had a pressure gauge installed.
 
You should adjust fuel pressure any time it's outside of specifications, typically 39 psi.
I have an adjustable FPR. I swapped my entire tank and went to a replacement Walpro 255. I ended up replacing an older Walpro 255 with a new one and noticed the car surging and stalling when coming to a stop. Both behavioral items that my car wasn't doing before. I've since adjusted the fuel pressure to 38 with the vacumn off and plugged and it runs better now (no surging). I've never heard of having to adjust fuel pressure post pump replacement and can't see why it would need to be done since the pressure regulator controls pressure, yet the car is running better since adjusting.

Some times I think these cars are powered by witchcraft as they're so finicky
 
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I have an adjustable FPR. I swapped my entire tank and went to a replacement Walpro 255. I ended up replacing an older Walpro 255 with a new one and noticed the car surging and stalling when coming to a stop. Both behavioral items that my car wasn't doing before. I've since adjusted the fuel pressure to 38 with the vacumn off and plugged and it runs better now (no surging). I've never heard of having to adjust fuel pressure post pump replacement and can't see why it would need to be done since the pressure regulator controls pressure, yet the car is running better since adjusting.

Some times I think these cars are powered by witchcraft as they're so finicky

Ok so then i do have direct experience.

Stock 88LPH pump with Kirban AFPR and a mechanical FP guage. Set at 39PSI.

Replaced the pump with a 150LPH unit. No other changes. Upon startup, pressure was now at 43PSI. I had to adjust the FPR down almost as low as it would go to get it back to 39psi.
 
Finally got my rear seat belt covers back from the upholstery shop after nearly four months! Time to start back up on the car again.

And yes, I'm still planning on the Z2363 Crate engine and T-56 swap.
 

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Has anyone replaced their radiator support? LMR says welding is required and I'd prefer to do it myself in my garage. Some yahoo tried to lift this car some time in the past from the radiator support and it appears to basically be a bolton.
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Definitely not a Bolton. :poo: ton of spot welds to cut on the aprons and such, plus you really want this somewhat jigged up when you weld it in.

Better off trying to straighten the one on there now
 
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