Sounds like my week! Same thing happened to my car with the clutch pedal. My car has the McLeod hydraulic clutch kit and there was a threaded braided line that just popped off, luckily fixed it in 10 mins once I got it homeGot my car back today from the mechanic after swapping out the existing springs with upgraded Trick Flow dual valve springs. Turns out my longstanding two year problem WAS valve float. Car now pulls hard to 6250 rpm with no skipping or other engine drama. However, just 1.8 miles from my house my clutch pedal decided to go right to the floor. Not sure if I broke the cable or what happened. If it's not one thing it's another.
Progress Thread 12th Owner: My '93 Notchback Restoration & Performance Build
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Its those threaded rod adjustable clutch cables. They are only 3 layers thick and if you get any heat they separate from the inside out.
Do yourself a favor and get the one from MM that is made the same way as the original Ford.
Yes, I have long tube headers. I did notice a few months ago that the plastic had melted away where the cable nearly touches the exhaust header, but I wrapped it in some exhaust heat reflecting wrap. I suppose this was inevitable.
Thanks. I'll look into the MM cable.
Called MM today. They confirmed that the LMR clutch cable, which they identify as Taiwan made, are subgrade clutch cables and will fail in time with the proper amount of heat. I bought MM's universal Ford style clutch cable (MMCL-11) and the clutch cable spacer kit (MMCL-17) which purposely spaces the cable away from the bellhousing to ensure no unintended touching and heat transfer. I'll finish it off with a protective heat resistant sleeve and hopefully won't have to deal with this ever again.
I installed the MM clutch cable yesterday. You get what you pay for and the MM one is leaps ahead of the LMR clutch cable. It's good to have a road worthy car again.
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Just returned from a car show where multiple people identified my car as a SSP. Kind of annoying as it stands alone as a notch, but maybe I'm making too much of it.
Just tell em you identify it as one “Bitchin” notch, that started life nowhere near being an SSP (if I remember correctly)! Looks great!
Can’t wait to get mine back up and running again so I can enjoy some shows..... with my car!
Can’t wait to get mine back up and running again so I can enjoy some shows..... with my car!
Recently had my speedometer needle act up again. Did my research and found a local speedometer repair shop out here. Apparently you can pull the complete speedometer out of the cluster and swap just the magnet. And a magnet from a 85 mph speedometer is interchangeable with the 140 mph speedometers. That helps cut down on trolling Ebay for a complete clusters.
Crushed it at Ponys at the Pike, Long Beach, CA. COVID be dammed, even in this state.
What's the deal with these cars running so poorly when it's really hot out?
I've noticed that if I drive my car on 95+ degree days where heat coming off the road and being ingested by the car is likely 105+, the car will often buck when accelerating at high rpm. Other days with temps at 85 and below the car consistently runs great. Is this a common thing with fuel injected 302s? My car is mechanically sound otherwise to include "tune-up" parts. Silly question I know, but I like my car drama free.
I've noticed that if I drive my car on 95+ degree days where heat coming off the road and being ingested by the car is likely 105+, the car will often buck when accelerating at high rpm. Other days with temps at 85 and below the car consistently runs great. Is this a common thing with fuel injected 302s? My car is mechanically sound otherwise to include "tune-up" parts. Silly question I know, but I like my car drama free.
Any codes?
Check fuel pump regulator/fuel pressure at different RPMs
Check fuel pump regulator/fuel pressure at different RPMs
If you can't figure it out we may need to suspend your Mustang Master tag.
Hey, I'm just checking in as I assumed my account would be suspended anyways if I didn't post every three months or so.
Geez. Tough crowd.
Have you ever dumped codes during one of these days to see if the ECU is reporting any sensors out of range?
Higher temps mean increased resistance values in wiring/sensors.
Higher temps mean increased resistance values in wiring/sensors.
Never had your issues and I drive on the surface of the sun( Nevada) daily with temps as high as 115.
Parkway speeds of 75/80 five days a week.
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