1965 Mustang Tranny Swap to 5 Speed Question?
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By far the easiest 5-speed installation for you is the T5. You can use all the 65 clutch linkage, bell, and clutch (I'd recommend the 289HP clutch) which can easily be had new and used. Use the 86-93 World class V8 version.
The T5 and stock 65 stuff will bolt in (you'll need to knock out or drill the clutch rod hole, but everything else is strictly wrench turning). The stock T5 shifter comes right up through the stock 65 shifter hole, and uses the stock shift boot. You can even get a shift lever that looks like the stock 65 4-speed shifter and knob, but sports the 5-speed shift pattern. I prefer the 64 boot bezel to the 65-68 bezel, but that's just me. An ordinary 65 driveshaft assembly will do, the 31 spline job you have will need modification or replacement.
All you'll need is to collect the parts and set aside a weekend. I've done the auto/manual conversion in a day, but I have some practice.
The T5 and stock 65 stuff will bolt in (you'll need to knock out or drill the clutch rod hole, but everything else is strictly wrench turning). The stock T5 shifter comes right up through the stock 65 shifter hole, and uses the stock shift boot. You can even get a shift lever that looks like the stock 65 4-speed shifter and knob, but sports the 5-speed shift pattern. I prefer the 64 boot bezel to the 65-68 bezel, but that's just me. An ordinary 65 driveshaft assembly will do, the 31 spline job you have will need modification or replacement.
All you'll need is to collect the parts and set aside a weekend. I've done the auto/manual conversion in a day, but I have some practice.
chris66dad
Member
You want to get a world class T5. Here is info on how to ID a transmission if you are buying it: How to ID a T5
It is also recommended you change out the rear bushing and seal. It is also a good idea to change the aluminum bearing retainer to a steel retainer. Here is how to do it: BM Ripper Shifter and T5 upgrades | FordMuscle Magazine
I decided to use a 10 1/2 inch King Cobra diaphragm clutch instead of the old 3 finger style. I needed to get a new flywheel with 28 oz imbalance, 157 teeth ($125 Ebay) so it would mount.
I decided to use an aluminum DS that was 51 inches center to center. Aluminum reduces vibration problems.
My driveshaft only had .500 inches of freeplay. You should have .750 to 1.000 inches.
Pictures and Info: Drive shaft
I also put in a hydraulic clutch that works great. I did not want to deal with a cable clutch and heat issues. Cost was about $230. Info, parts list and pictures: Hydraulic clutch
I used the T5 bellhousing and did not use an adapter plate set up.
More info on the change out: T5
5th gear is a little tall with my 3.00 rear end. I find I need to down shift to 4th to pass quickly on the freeway so I wont lug the engine. I just bought a 3.55 trac-lok 3rd member I will be installing in the next few weeks so that problem will go away soon.
Overall it is a great mod to do on a Mustang.
Good Luck and BE Safe
Ron
It is also recommended you change out the rear bushing and seal. It is also a good idea to change the aluminum bearing retainer to a steel retainer. Here is how to do it: BM Ripper Shifter and T5 upgrades | FordMuscle Magazine
I decided to use a 10 1/2 inch King Cobra diaphragm clutch instead of the old 3 finger style. I needed to get a new flywheel with 28 oz imbalance, 157 teeth ($125 Ebay) so it would mount.
I decided to use an aluminum DS that was 51 inches center to center. Aluminum reduces vibration problems.
My driveshaft only had .500 inches of freeplay. You should have .750 to 1.000 inches.
Pictures and Info: Drive shaft
I also put in a hydraulic clutch that works great. I did not want to deal with a cable clutch and heat issues. Cost was about $230. Info, parts list and pictures: Hydraulic clutch
I used the T5 bellhousing and did not use an adapter plate set up.
More info on the change out: T5
5th gear is a little tall with my 3.00 rear end. I find I need to down shift to 4th to pass quickly on the freeway so I wont lug the engine. I just bought a 3.55 trac-lok 3rd member I will be installing in the next few weeks so that problem will go away soon.
Overall it is a great mod to do on a Mustang.
Good Luck and BE Safe
Ron
I have a 92 T-5 in my 66 vert. I used original bell and clutch linkage. I dont like the cable running all over the engine compartment. I also have Tri-Y headers which interferes with the cable.
I learned the hard way that hipo 289 had the large flywheel so dont get that clutch. I have a 10" SPEC stage 1. It is smooth and easy to operate.
You will need a new trans. crossmember. It does not matter if you use early or late bellhousing for the crossmember. But do get the one with the emergency brake bracket. If you use the original/early bell, you will need the 1/2" spacer plate. If you use a late model bell, you have to change your clutch linkage as the clutch lever goes the other way. Many convert to hydraulic clutch release, but not myself.
You will need a new drive shaft yolk. You may need your DS shortened. Mine was $80 and they balanced it real nice.
As stated the T-5 is a top loader and the shifter comes through in just the right spot. It is so nice no having any shifter rattles. Also the T-5 is much lighter than your C4. I can pull it out and put back in by myself.
There are many good T-5s out there. Like stated find a 84-93 5.0 Mustang. My advice is dont use a T-Bird or Truck.
I learned the hard way that hipo 289 had the large flywheel so dont get that clutch. I have a 10" SPEC stage 1. It is smooth and easy to operate.
You will need a new trans. crossmember. It does not matter if you use early or late bellhousing for the crossmember. But do get the one with the emergency brake bracket. If you use the original/early bell, you will need the 1/2" spacer plate. If you use a late model bell, you have to change your clutch linkage as the clutch lever goes the other way. Many convert to hydraulic clutch release, but not myself.
You will need a new drive shaft yolk. You may need your DS shortened. Mine was $80 and they balanced it real nice.
As stated the T-5 is a top loader and the shifter comes through in just the right spot. It is so nice no having any shifter rattles. Also the T-5 is much lighter than your C4. I can pull it out and put back in by myself.
There are many good T-5s out there. Like stated find a 84-93 5.0 Mustang. My advice is dont use a T-Bird or Truck.
Dunno who sold you the wrong parts, but the Mustang 289HP uses the same size 157T wheel with 11 3/8" pressure point bolt circle as any 2V engine. Makes upgrading a 2V engine to a better clutch a snap.
There is supposed to be a slight balance difference on the 289HP wheel, but not knowing this I used a second-hand 2V wheel on mine about 30 years ago. Runs silk-smooth. Guess not different after all.
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