• Mustang Forums
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-

1966 I-6 Header To Starter Clearance

  • Thread starter Thread starter Sweetmarie66
  • Start date Start date Dec 29, 2017
  • Tags Tags
    i-6 header clearance
  • 1
  • 2
Next
1 of 2 Next Last

Sweetmarie66

Member
Dec 29, 2017
67
5
18
Dec 29, 2017
#1
  • Dec 29, 2017
  • #1
Hey everyone!!!! We just got our Scott drake dual outlet header and are having some clearance issues with it hitting the starter . Have read that you can massage the tube with a Ford BFH, but I'm really not happy about mashing it to fit. Was hoping that someone out there would no of a mini starter that would fit. We have a T-5 transmission and the starter that is in her now is a 2 bolt. The solenoid is mounted on the firewall not on the starter itself. If you need me to give you more information just tell me what you require and I would be happy to get it for you as I will not be sleeping period. Lol. Thanks for your time everyone
 

Attachments

  • 20171229_152616.webp
    297.8 KB · Views: 1,311

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Dec 30, 2017
#2
  • Dec 30, 2017
  • #2
i think there is a mini starter that fits, but i cant remember where it comes from. you might ask this question at fordsix.com as someone over there is run into this issue.
 

Sweetmarie66

Member
Dec 29, 2017
67
5
18
Dec 30, 2017
#3
  • Dec 30, 2017
  • #3
rbohm said:
i think there is a mini starter that fits, but i cant remember where it comes from. you might ask this question at fordsix.com as someone over there is run into this issue.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info.. Will go take a look
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Dec 31, 2017
#4
  • Dec 31, 2017
  • #4
i di a little research for you, incase you havent yet. it seems the starter for an FE also fits the small six 144-200. most of these are three bolt starter mounts, but some are two bolt mounts, my 64 170 has a two bolt mount. these starters were suggested:

https://www.summitracing.com/search...9+4294951343+4294942726+4294949035+4294926701

let me know what you find.
 

Sweetmarie66

Member
Dec 29, 2017
67
5
18
Dec 31, 2017
#5
  • Dec 31, 2017
  • #5
Ok. I checked out the links you suggest. I had seen on Ford six the 9406 looks like it would work. Once it warms up a bit (it's-29C ) my shop is chilly lol. I will count the teeth on the flywheel. I apologise but could u explain what "FE" means? U mentioned that in your post and it also says that in the part description on the summit site. If you require more info about the I6 or anything please let me no. Thank you for your help!!! And happy New year!!!!!
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Jan 1, 2018
#6
  • Jan 1, 2018
  • #6
the "FE" is a designation for a particular class of ford engine. in this case it is the designation for the 390/406/427/428 big blocks. supposedly FE stands for ford engine, depending on who you talk to. it basically separates the 390 based big blocks from the 385 series big block, aka the 429/460.

as for counting the teeth, no nee to do that since ford uses the same tooth spacing on their starter pinion gears pretty much across the board, so it doesnt matter if you have a 138 tooth ring gear, a 164 tooth ring gear, or what ever.
 

Sweetmarie66

Member
Dec 29, 2017
67
5
18
Jan 1, 2018
#7
  • Jan 1, 2018
  • #7
Ok cool. Thanks for clarification on the FE abbreviation and the flywheel teeth. I guess here's the big question. My pop's is a old school gear head. I've been pulling wrenches with him since I was 6. He's always been able to "make it work " by whatever means possible. He has mentioned instead of mashing the crap out of the header tube rather use his hydraulic press and put a soft dimple in the tube to clear the starter. Now this would likely work but what about the heat? Would this get the starter? Furthermore purchasing the mini starter if t didn't work I've read that because it is a electric part I cannot return it. Can't get one locally so would be purchased online. I do value your opinion and trust that it would work.. ugh so frustrating. What would u do? Massage the header or just bite the bullet and pay the 438.00 CAD$? Again thank you for responding and for your advice!
 

Attachments

  • 20180101_093109.webp
    140.1 KB · Views: 621

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Jan 1, 2018
#8
  • Jan 1, 2018
  • #8
massaging the headers is rather normal in just about every install. heck i even had to massage my headers to clear the bolt heads so i could install and tighten down the bolts on my 66 mustang.

the longer you can make the dimple, the better. that way you dont lose airflow at that point, or you can at least minimize the loss. some guys will flatten a long portion of the tube, or more accurately they will oval the pipe. this has the advantage of maintaining the pipe flow area while still gaining the required clearance.

speaking of clearance, as long as you have at least 1/2" of clearance with the starter, you should have no issues since you dont use the starter all that much.

another option to gain clearance with the starter is to heat the pipe up and bend it while hot to gain the necessary clearance. to do this you might have to R&R the header a few times until you get the clearance you need.

as for the starter itself, what you might do is head on down to the local classic car junkyard, and grab a starter off an FE engine, and bolt it to your motor to see if it fits the way you want it to. your investment should be around $10, which you can recoup by rebuilding the old starter and selling it on craigslist.

if you get a mini starter for your motor, get one that you can "clock" or change the position of the solenoid to provide clearance for the header.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Jan 3, 2018
#9
  • Jan 3, 2018
  • #9
I would recommend doing this with the heat wrench. If you can just heat the primary tubes up and bend the header a little bit, that is better than the BFH method. You should also probably buy some heat wrap and wrap the header to protect the starter. You can also build a heat shield for the starter but you might not have clearance for that since you are already having problems with your existing starter.

rbohm, I always though FE stood for Ford Edsel since that was the first car the FE motor ever came in?
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Jan 3, 2018
#10
  • Jan 3, 2018
  • #10
Rusty67 said:
I would recommend doing this with the heat wrench. If you can just heat the primary tubes up and bend the header a little bit, that is better than the BFH method. You should also probably buy some heat wrap and wrap the header to protect the starter. You can also build a heat shield for the starter but you might not have clearance for that since you are already having problems with your existing starter.

rbohm, I always though FE stood for Ford Edsel since that was the first car the FE motor ever came in?
Click to expand...

good call on the heat wrap rusty.

as for the engine designation, its possible, but i though the edsel got the MEL engine, same as mercury and lincoln. at this point who really knows.
 

Sweetmarie66

Member
Dec 29, 2017
67
5
18
Jan 4, 2018
#11
  • Jan 4, 2018
  • #11
Wow you guys are awsome . Am going to head over to my pop's shop on the weekend. Thanks so much for all the information guys!!!! Got some more questions about a carburetor and such. One battle at a time lol. Thanks again
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Jan 4, 2018
#12
  • Jan 4, 2018
  • #12
Sweetmarie66 said:
Wow you guys are awsome . Am going to head over to my pop's shop on the weekend. Thanks so much for all the information guys!!!! Got some more questions about a carburetor and such. One battle at a time lol. Thanks again
Click to expand...

my advice, dump the one barrel carb and go with a two barrel carb. even if you use a two barrel to one barrel adapter. the 38/38 weber is a good one to use as is the 2100 autolite. also swap out the load o matic distributor and go with a later dual advance distributor, prefferably a duraspark system.
 

Sweetmarie66

Member
Dec 29, 2017
67
5
18
Jan 4, 2018
#13
  • Jan 4, 2018
  • #13
I will send u some pictures of the ignition I currently have. I've seen that I can get the 38 Webber from Clifford. Wow pricey. Do u no if i would have any height issues with running the two barrel? Also any advice on places to look for the 38 or the 2100 and a adapter plate? Awsome. Thanks so much!
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Jan 4, 2018
#14
  • Jan 4, 2018
  • #14
try vintageinlines.com for adapter plates, and carbs. yes the weber can be pricy. another place you can try for the carb is http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/ they have the weber carb as well, they also sell the carter/weber carb also. either way get the adapter from vintageinlines as they are much shorter than the adapters from stovebolt.

i am assuming that you have a 66 mustang, and hood clearance can be a bit tight with the adapters. look around at vintageinlines as i believe they have air cleaner systems that can help gain hood clearance. you can also mill the adapter as needed to gain clearance as well.
 

Sweetmarie66

Member
Dec 29, 2017
67
5
18
Jan 4, 2018
#15
  • Jan 4, 2018
  • #15
I sent a message to you directly I think
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Jan 4, 2018
#16
  • Jan 4, 2018
  • #16
Sweetmarie66 said:
I sent a message to you directly I think
Click to expand...

relax, i run through a number of forums, during the day. especially the one i am part of the admin staff.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Jan 8, 2018
#17
  • Jan 8, 2018
  • #17
You should probably start a new thread about the carb stuff and another for the ignition stuff as well. Thread topics help direct people to the topic they can help with. Right now everyone will still think this is about header clearance.
 

Sweetmarie66

Member
Dec 29, 2017
67
5
18
Jan 8, 2018
#18
  • Jan 8, 2018
  • #18
Ok thanks rusty will do
 

Sweetmarie66

Member
Dec 29, 2017
67
5
18
Jan 8, 2018
#19
  • Jan 8, 2018
  • #19
With awsome advice from you guys my header clearance concerns are no more. Will post pics and how it all went when done. Thanks so much!
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Jan 10, 2018
#20
  • Jan 10, 2018
  • #20
good show
 
  • 1
  • 2
Next
1 of 2 Next Last
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Exhaust 1 3/4” Long Tubes on a Fox Body AOD – Easiest route?
  • 5.0 Mike
  • Mar 19, 2025
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
6
Views
2K
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Mar 21, 2025
5.0 Mike
5
Hello Everyone !
  • 5150K
  • Jul 3, 2026
  • The Welcome Wagon
Replies
0
Views
69
The Welcome Wagon Jul 3, 2026
5150K
5
Place to Avoid: Jamison Auto Group in Gulfport, MS
  • D Durden
  • Oct 20, 2025
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • 2 3
Replies
46
Views
2K
1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk- Thursday at 9:44 PM
Noobz347
Starters suck. So does the aftermarket!
  • Blue Thunder
  • Apr 30, 2024
  • 1974 - 1978 Mustang II Talk & Tech
  • 2
Replies
30
Views
4K
1974 - 1978 Mustang II Talk & Tech May 13, 2024
Blue Thunder
Progress Thread Giving an abandoned 88 GT project a new chance at life
  • jaketractor
  • Jan 9, 2025
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
  • 2
Replies
27
Views
2K
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Jul 20, 2025
Noobz347
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?