1966 Mustang Convertible Restoration

rusty428cj

10 Year Member
Sep 29, 2007
921
216
84
Port Richey Fl
#1
We started this project last year but I have not had the time to share the build. At first this looks like an easy project until you start looking a little closer. It has been sitting a long time and at one time outside.







The rear of both frame rails need to be replaced



A little rust in the quarter panels



The convertible has an inner torque box and it was rusted under that







The fender had been patched a long time ago and needed to be fixed









Brian removed the inner brace on both fenders











Sanded to bare metal and I sprayed a couple coats of SPI epoxy primer



 
#3
Everything stripped off of the body and mounted on a cart.



Quarter panels and trunk floor removed



Normal problem with the cowl



New cowl sanded and epoxy primed





Engine compartment stripped to bare metal



I ordered a new battery apron from CJ's and it did not fit. We had installed one from NPD on Modified Mustangs & Fords project car that fit so I ordered one from them and got the same thing as CJ's. I sent an email with photos to Rick at NPD and he got right back to me and said he would look into it. Rick got with the manufacturer and it is being redesigned so it will fit and we are waiting for the new design.

We are using this convertible so we can make a jig for another wrecked 1966 convertible we are fixing in the future.



The floor had been repaired with fiberglass mat so it was cut out.



The torque boxes needed to be replaced



The rear section of both frame rails were replaced



 
#6
The inner rocker has rust



Brian wanted to finish the trunk floor before he fixed the rockers





This is what it looked like after Brian took the top of the torque box off



This is how it looked once the inner rocker was cut off



I epoxy primed the back side



Sanded and ready for epoxy





Brian had to make this it did not come with the Dynacorn convertible inner rocker



More epoxy and holes drilled on the inner rocker



Inner rocker installed

 
#7
Brian had the floor in then marked where he wanted to drill all the holes for the plug welds



Test fitting one more time and getting it to fit around the trans tunnel in the front than he marked where the subframe was.





Welded in place



 
#9
Sanded the floor pan



Epoxy primed



Brian wasn't finished welding the undercarriage but we wanted epoxy under the convertible brace before it was welded in place



Fitting the quarter and taillight panel





I have not been able to find a convertible trunk corner brace only fastbacks and the shape is wrong



After Brian modified it



.
 
#13
The best way of removing pieces is to drill the spot welds .An air chisel or a cutting torch can distort the metal,not to mention cutting through pieces you don't want to cut. It's hard work drilling them but it can be even harder to clean up from a torch or a chisel ,just look how clean Brians work is.
 
#14
Thinking about getting a rotisseries for next project. Did it help with any of the floor welds or do you need to have full floor welded in before putting it on. Getting to old to be laying on my back doing plug welds.
 
#17
A word about spot welds. I am a novice mustang, and I hesitate to use the word restorer, but I am plodding along. Thanks to solid contributors such as Rusty and Horse. I very rarely give advice but in this case I will. If you are removing a panel for replacement and want to save whats beneth it drill the spot welds. Yes it is time consuming but not nearly as much as replacing the panel you damage with an air chisel. My first attempts a drilling were unsuccessful primarily because of the cutter I was using. It was nothing more than a small hole saw. It was good for about three welds if that. All it took was a google search for spot weld cutters. And It returned a set by Blair that I purchased. It is a true cutter and comes as a complete set . Check it out.
 
#19
My cutter is also a Blair. Cadillac of cutters . I have the spring loaded center pin ,it is a little harder to use until you get used to it ,you have to center punch the spot weld . It cuts from one side . My kit goes to 3/4 inch .I bought 3 extra mandrels so i don't have to change the cutters ,unless i break one. but you can buy the cutters separately so no problem .I couldn't do without it.
 
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