1966 Mustang Convertible Restoration

rusty428cj · Sep 18, 2013

We started this project last year but I have not had the time to share the build. At first this looks like an easy project until you start looking a little closer. It has been sitting a long time and at one time outside.

The rear of both frame rails need to be replaced

A little rust in the quarter panels

The convertible has an inner torque box and it was rusted under that

The fender had been patched a long time ago and needed to be fixed

Brian removed the inner brace on both fenders

Sanded to bare metal and I sprayed a couple coats of SPI epoxy primer

horse sence · Sep 18, 2013

i know how hard it is to do patch work that comes out like that on the front fenders. nice work, i prefer butt welding over lapped panels any time.

rusty428cj · Sep 18, 2013

Everything stripped off of the body and mounted on a cart.

Quarter panels and trunk floor removed

Normal problem with the cowl

New cowl sanded and epoxy primed

Engine compartment stripped to bare metal

I ordered a new battery apron from CJ's and it did not fit. We had installed one from NPD on Modified Mustangs & Fords project car that fit so I ordered one from them and got the same thing as CJ's. I sent an email with photos to Rick at NPD and he got right back to me and said he would look into it. Rick got with the manufacturer and it is being redesigned so it will fit and we are waiting for the new design.

We are using this convertible so we can make a jig for another wrecked 1966 convertible we are fixing in the future.

The floor had been repaired with fiberglass mat so it was cut out.

The torque boxes needed to be replaced

The rear section of both frame rails were replaced

65FBE2 · Sep 18, 2013

Roughly what does it cost to get a restoration on a car like this? Just the body work and paint.

rusty428cj · Sep 19, 2013

65FBE2 said:
Roughly what does it cost to get a restoration on a car like this? Just the body work and paint.

$50.00 per hour plus parts and materials

rusty428cj · Sep 19, 2013

The inner rocker has rust

Brian wanted to finish the trunk floor before he fixed the rockers

This is what it looked like after Brian took the top of the torque box off

This is how it looked once the inner rocker was cut off

I epoxy primed the back side

Sanded and ready for epoxy

Brian had to make this it did not come with the Dynacorn convertible inner rocker

More epoxy and holes drilled on the inner rocker

Inner rocker installed

rusty428cj · Sep 29, 2013

Brian had the floor in then marked where he wanted to drill all the holes for the plug welds

Test fitting one more time and getting it to fit around the trans tunnel in the front than he marked where the subframe was.

Welded in place

rusty428cj · Sep 29, 2013

Seat riser installed

Brackets for the rear seat welded in place

Test fitting the rear seat

Time to come off the jig

rusty428cj · Feb 8, 2014

Sanded the floor pan

Epoxy primed

Brian wasn't finished welding the undercarriage but we wanted epoxy under the convertible brace before it was welded in place

Fitting the quarter and taillight panel

I have not been able to find a convertible trunk corner brace only fastbacks and the shape is wrong

After Brian modified it

.

rusty428cj · Feb 9, 2014

Ready for epoxy

Two coats of SPI red oxide

palerider94 · Feb 11, 2014

Just curious why did you replace rear frame rail section looked solid in pictures. Also is there any easier way to remove inner rockers other than drilling out all spot welds?

rusty428cj · Feb 12, 2014

palerider94 said:
Just curious why did you replace rear frame rail section looked solid in pictures. Also is there any easier way to remove inner rockers other than drilling out all spot welds?

There was a lot of rust.

Not that I know of without making a big mess and creating more work.

horse sence · Feb 12, 2014

The best way of removing pieces is to drill the spot welds .An air chisel or a cutting torch can distort the metal,not to mention cutting through pieces you don't want to cut. It's hard work drilling them but it can be even harder to clean up from a torch or a chisel ,just look how clean Brians work is.

palerider94 · Feb 13, 2014

Thinking about getting a rotisseries for next project. Did it help with any of the floor welds or do you need to have full floor welded in before putting it on. Getting to old to be laying on my back doing plug welds.

rusty428cj · Feb 13, 2014

palerider94 said:
Thinking about getting a rotisseries for next project. Did it help with any of the floor welds or do you need to have full floor welded in before putting it on. Getting to old to be laying on my back doing plug welds.

The floor was welded in on a cart then it was mounted on the rotisserie to finish welding the bottom side and prime.

palerider94 · Feb 13, 2014

So you welded the topside first and then flipped to do spot welds on the inner rockers?

Great build BTW - Amazed how you can remove whole back end and get everything to line back up.

candphall · Feb 15, 2014

A word about spot welds. I am a novice mustang, and I hesitate to use the word restorer, but I am plodding along. Thanks to solid contributors such as Rusty and Horse. I very rarely give advice but in this case I will. If you are removing a panel for replacement and want to save whats beneth it drill the spot welds. Yes it is time consuming but not nearly as much as replacing the panel you damage with an air chisel. My first attempts a drilling were unsuccessful primarily because of the cutter I was using. It was nothing more than a small hole saw. It was good for about three welds if that. All it took was a google search for spot weld cutters. And It returned a set by Blair that I purchased. It is a true cutter and comes as a complete set . Check it out.

robert912005 · Feb 15, 2014

thoes are very good... I have used spot weld cutters from harbor freight and they work pretty good as well.

horse sence · Feb 15, 2014

My cutter is also a Blair. Cadillac of cutters . I have the spring loaded center pin ,it is a little harder to use until you get used to it ,you have to center punch the spot weld . It cuts from one side . My kit goes to 3/4 inch .I bought 3 extra mandrels so i don't have to change the cutters ,unless i break one. but you can buy the cutters separately so no problem .I couldn't do without it.

palerider94 · Feb 22, 2014

yup same one. Blair nice cutters

1966 Mustang Convertible Restoration

rusty428cj

horse sence

rusty428cj

65FBE2

Member

rusty428cj

rusty428cj

rusty428cj

rusty428cj

rusty428cj

rusty428cj

palerider94

Member

rusty428cj

horse sence

palerider94

Member

rusty428cj

palerider94

Member

candphall

Active Member

robert912005

Member

horse sence

palerider94

Member

Similar threads

1966 Mustang Convertible Restoration

Member

Member

Member

Member

Active Member

Member

Member

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency