1967 gta rear end info please help!

If it's the original 67 unit, it would be the "Equa-Lok." You can still buy the clutches to rebuild them, but they're a bit scarce ans expensive. Unless you really want to keep the car all original, you'd be better off swapping it out for a traction lok or some other aftermarket carrier.

blackstallion12 said:

Is it able of fixing without buying a new unit (can i buy a clutch kit and rebuild existing unit)?
********ALSO CAN YOU GUYS PLEASE TELL ME WHAT THIS FACTORY FORD POSI UNIT WAS CALLED? TRAC-LOK?**********************

My friends dad that drag races alot http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=8155897mentioned I should drain old grease and replace it a few times to flush any debri out and it may start working again.

Please help guys. I at least would like to know what the name of this unit is called. Any suggestions or comments very welcomed and appreciated.

Thank you!!!

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Well, the rear doesn't use grease, it uses 90W gear oil, and as you said, it should also have CM-19546-A1 Friction Modifier (Motorcraft XL-3).

Ford's original limited-slip rear was the Equalock™, a belleville-gear preloaded wet clutch. Parts for the Equalock are hard to find. The Belleville spring was discontinued decades ago, and the clutches about 15 years ago.

In 1968, Ford introduced Traction-Lok™, a torque-sensing limited slip. They still use that name, and the function remains the same. Parts for the T-Lok, and even new units, are easily available.

Positraction™ is a General Motors trademark.

Your description of the failure troubles me. Since the Equalock was a constant-friction wet clutch, incapable of locking, yet it locked. This behavior would be a bad sign even in a Traction-Loc. More likely, what has happened is one or more of the internal differential gears have failed. Anything is possible, but it's likely what you'll need to do is have a complete new Traction-Lok installed in your diff reusing the old housing and gears. That'll cost you $500, plus whatever seals, gaskets, bearings, and of course labor run. Rears are not a do-it-yourself kind of project, unless you have precision tools, and experience.