1967 Mustang Coupe 351w Single Turbo Build

brianj5600

Active Member

Sep 19, 2003

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Middle TN

Apr 9, 2008

#1

• Apr 9, 2008

• #1

I started a few years ago. I have had 2 kids since the project started, which does nothing to speed things along. The car was originally a 6 cylinder and bone stock. I have redone the suspension, brakes, engine, transmission, fuel system, and rear end. All was done in my garage except the machine work. Now it is time for a turbo. I have no experience with header fab, so it is not going as fast as some builds and won't be nearly as pretty as some. The engine/car combo does not leave a lot of room for headers. I learned on the drivers side so the other went 10x faster. There was a little more room on the passenger side and the collector is inline with the motor. The drivers side had to kick out about 30 degrees or it went right into the radiator outlet. Plus I had one header under my belt. Now to cut them both apart and weld them up. The drivers side is super tight. I hope it fits after finish welding.

The engine is a 351w with SRP -27cc pistons, AFR185's, hyd flat tappet, TorkerII intake and Proform double pumper.
The turbo is an MPT-70 for now with an EV hat, Tial WG and BOV.
The fuel system is a sumped tank, A1000 pump, 13204 regulator with -8 feed and return.
The trans is a homebuilt C5 with 5 reds in the forward, 6 reds in the direct and a RMVB.
The rear end is a 95 GT 8.8 with a 3.08 gear converted for leaf springs.

 

6

67rcks

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Feb 20, 2008

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Apr 10, 2008

#2

• Apr 10, 2008

• #2

so how did you pick this specific turbo? from what car (make/model)? What tells you it will work with your carb and how are you going to mod air filter? Or you just plugging in a random turbo and will see how it works?

 

brianj5600

Active Member

Sep 19, 2003

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Middle TN

Apr 10, 2008

#3

• Apr 10, 2008

• #3

A turbo does not care if it is feeding a carb, FI or whatever. I am going to use a Master Power T-70 mainly because of the price and physical size. It is a little on the small side, but should still make good power. Others have run the same turbo with similar motors with good results. The air filter is usually a cone filter mounted to the inlet on the turbo. There is a ton of info at theturboforum.com

 

classic boost

Founding Member

Feb 3, 1999

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canton, oh

Apr 10, 2008

#4

• Apr 10, 2008

• #4

those are really nice headers. can't wait to see the rest of it.

 

68stang351

Founding Member

May 16, 2002

850

9

39

Savoy TX

Apr 10, 2008

#5

• Apr 10, 2008

• #5

Would you be interested in making another set of those headers maybe?

 

brianj5600

Active Member

Sep 19, 2003

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Middle TN

Apr 14, 2008

#6

• Apr 14, 2008

• #6

68stang351 said:

Would you be interested in making another set of those headers maybe?

Click to expand...

If you were not so far away. It is super tight and I would need to build it to fit your car specificly.

 

F

ForceFed70

That's why they call it "dope"

Founding Member

Dec 6, 1999

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BC Canada

Apr 14, 2008

#7

• Apr 14, 2008

• #7

Lookin good! She's going to be a monster. Think that 8.8 will hold up?

 

SadbutTrue

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May 1, 2002

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49

Granada Hills, California

Apr 14, 2008

#8

• Apr 14, 2008

• #8

8.8s are pretty beefy, comparable to a 31 spline 9", IIRC

 

brianj5600

Active Member

Sep 19, 2003

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Middle TN

Apr 14, 2008

#9

• Apr 14, 2008

• #9

I am not too worried about the 8.8. A friend of my nephew made tons of mid 6 sec 1/8 mile passes and even a few 5.90's with a stock 8.8 with a 4.10 gear. If it breaks I'll get another one for $100. Hopefully it will last through the summer and next winter I'll put bigger axles and 9" ends on it. That should make it safe for sub 10 second 1/4 mile passes.

 

brianj5600

Active Member

Sep 19, 2003

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Middle TN

Apr 29, 2008

#10

• Apr 29, 2008

• #10

I got a little more done on the car. The drivers side header is finished and the turbo is in place. The passenger side header is partly welded and I hope to finish it in the next couple days and start the crossover. The plan for the crossover and downpipe is ambitious. I plan on running the crossover between the core support and the swaybar. When it gets to the other side it will curve up and toward the rear just a bit to clear the radiator outlet and then turn forward and up to join the drivers side. The DP will 90 right out of the turbo and go down in front of the cylinderhead and split into two 2.5" pipes. One pipe will turn straight back and the other will pass in front of the motor and then turn back on the other side of the motor. I still have a little trimming to do to get the compressor cover to fit. I am not sure it will all work, but that is the plan.

 

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brianj5600

Active Member

Sep 19, 2003

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Middle TN

Jun 5, 2008

#11

• Jun 5, 2008

• #11

The car is on the road. The carb works surprisingly well. I have a programmable 6AL-2 on order which will help economy/driveability a ton. It is going to the track this weekend. Either the local 1/8 mile Friday or maybe Bowling Green Saturday. There is a big Mustang event in BG this Saturday. I doubt I'll make a full 1/4 mile pass until I get the tune nailed. I hope to go some low 7's in the 1/8. It feels strong enough, but I don't know how it will react to slicks. It does nice 45 mph rolling burnouts on the 245 gatorbacks though.

 

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classic boost

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Feb 3, 1999

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canton, oh

Jun 6, 2008

#12

• Jun 6, 2008

• #12

congrats!

 

LONN17

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Dec 1, 2000

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Oceanport, NJ

Jul 27, 2008

#13

• Jul 27, 2008

• #13

brianj5600, what size carb are you running? I am looking to go turbo on my car too and am torn between blow through and efi and looking for a little more info. A freind recently donated a 60-1, GT40 intake and hit time to fab me up some custom headers so its something I can't pass up.

Thanks,
Trevor

 

brianj5600

Active Member

Sep 19, 2003

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Middle TN

Jul 28, 2008

#14

• Jul 28, 2008

• #14

It is a 650dp with a proform main body. Right after I bought the PF body, Holley started offering HP main bodies. I would have held off if I had known Holley were going to sell them. If I could afford and knew more about EFI, I would have gone that route. I have around $250 in my carb. $100 for a used 650, $100 for the main body and $50 for floats and air bleeds. There is everything you need to know on the web to mod them and good help on the turbo forum. You need to understand what each orifice does and what change modifying it will have on the fuel curve.

 

LONN17

Founding Member

Dec 1, 2000

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Oceanport, NJ

Jul 29, 2008

#15

• Jul 29, 2008

• #15

Thanks for the info Brian. Although I want the ease of EFI I am kind of turned off by the cost - it will probably cost me triple. This is going to be a tough decision...