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1968 289 H2O

  • Thread starter Thread starter gregski
  • Start date Start date Mar 31, 2011
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gregski

Active Member
Mar 13, 2010
577
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28
Sacramento, California
Apr 20, 2011
#101
  • Apr 20, 2011
  • #101
Show Us Your Bits !!!

Man the Crankshaft looks fantastic! And I am not pulling it, never done it, it's way out of my league. Yes I could remove it but I don't even wanna think about putting in new bearings, plus it would need machining and the whole 9 yards.

The Oil Pump looks like someone used it to stir a coffee milk shake with it! LOL I will try and clean it up the best I can, and I may need some serious hand holding if and when I decide to replace it, as I have never replaced an oil pump before.

Check out the timing chain, it looks great. I hope I don't have to mess with it either, because again, I never replaced a timing chain before.







I can't believe how clear these pictures came out, my camera is ***** in the dark and close up conditions.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
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109
LA, CA
Apr 20, 2011
#102
  • Apr 20, 2011
  • #102
If the pistons are frozen you might as well replace the crank bearings because you are going to need to hone the cylinders and the crank has to come out for that anyways.....
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Apr 20, 2011
#103
  • Apr 20, 2011
  • #103
gregski said:
1.) Man the Crankshaft looks fantastic! And I am not pulling it, never done it, it's way out of my league. Yes I could remove it but I don't even wanna think about putting in new bearings, plus it would need machining and the whole 9 yards.

2.) The Oil Pump looks like someone used it to stir a coffee milk shake with it! LOL I will try and clean it up the best I can, and I may need some serious hand holding if and when I decide to replace it, as I have never replaced an oil pump before.

3.) Check out the timing chain, it looks great. I hope I don't have to mess with it either, because again, I never replaced a timing chain before.
Click to expand...

1.) You'd have to separate the engine from the transmission to pull the crank anyway. Two bolts on the crossmember, six on the bellhousing, six on the flexplate, two for each of the fie main caps, and two for each of the eight conrods.....that's twice as many as the bloody oil pan.

2.) It's actually only a two-bolt job.

3.) That's a one-bolt job if the timing cover is already off.
 
G

gregski

Active Member
Mar 13, 2010
577
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28
Sacramento, California
Apr 20, 2011
#104
  • Apr 20, 2011
  • #104
Rusty67 said:
... you are going to need to hone the cylinders and the crank has to come out for that anyways.....
Click to expand...
I know I will get struck by lightning by disagreeing with Rusty, but no it don't, wait till you see how I plan to do it.
 
G

gregski

Active Member
Mar 13, 2010
577
0
28
Sacramento, California
Apr 20, 2011
#105
  • Apr 20, 2011
  • #105
65ShelbyClone said:
1.)...that's twice as many as the bloody oil pan.

2.) It's actually only a two-bolt job.

3.) That's a one-bolt job if the timing cover is already off.
Click to expand...

LOL, shoot it looks like somebody's been actually reading my posts and is giving me a taste of my own medicine, hee hee. In that case I may actually have the skills and ability to replace the oil pump, imagine that.

As far as #3 the cover bolts count, as does the crank shaft pulley - you testin' me or somethin'? lol
 
G

gregski

Active Member
Mar 13, 2010
577
0
28
Sacramento, California
Apr 20, 2011
#106
  • Apr 20, 2011
  • #106
How Ironic

So I cleaned up the sludge in the oil pan before I called it quits for the day. The oil pan looked pretty good aside from a bit of rust around the drain plug area about the size of a credit card. Question is when I clean it up with a wire wheel do I coat it with something or leave it raw? If I coat it what do you suggest I use fellas?

Don't you think it's a bit ironic that the inside of my oil pan rusted, yet it had oil in it? Just goes to show you the power of water, and what it can do to your engine.





 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Apr 21, 2011
#107
  • Apr 21, 2011
  • #107
Greg, when you hone the cylinders, the hone oil will drip down onto the crank and likely get into the bearings. The oil will contain metal filings which will lodge themselves in between the crank caps, bearings and crank. These will act as tiny files, destroying the crank friction surface and bearings.

I guess you could mask the entire cylinder off and tape a bag at the opening at the bottom but is it worth the risk ?

Also you need to replace that rear main seal ! Might want to have everything machined for a 1 piece rear main.... maybe not but either way you should replace that seal.
 

horseballz

10 Year Member
Sep 30, 2009
824
19
49
Las Vegas, NV
Apr 21, 2011
#108
  • Apr 21, 2011
  • #108
Hey All,
Gregski Said:

"And something tells me if I removed only one head and modified the intake in some crazy fashion I could get a V8 to run on just 4 cylinders"

I am currently playing with our "new to us" tow behind, industrial air compressor made by a company called "Grimmer-Schmidt" that is powered by a 351 Cleveland, sort of. The engine has a modified intake, "in some crazy fashion" and a different head on the right side and "DOES" use the left bank of 4 cylinders as the engine and the right bank of 4 cylinders as the compressor. It's a pretty cool setup and provides air volume for days! This thing is a BEAST!

In reference to mustangmutt's oil pan experience, when I was 17, I bought a 63 Mercury Comet, 2 dr, 144 or 170 CI 6-banger, 3 on the tree for $25. I was told the engine was shot, but the car had all new brakes, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc, 5 new matching tires and 2 snow tires. I had a buddy with me to help flat tow it the 3 1/2 miles to my shop area. Well, just for giggles, I put a battery in the car and it fired right up, a little clattery but not bad, so I decided to just drive it. Just as I was ready to pull into my shop driveway, my buddy started blowing his horn and a look in my mirror showed a totally freaked out look on his face and drastic amounts of smoke was pouring out from under the car accompanied by a loud bang as the engine seized SOLID. I jumped out of the car and looked under the front end to see NO OIL PAN and a brightly glowing crankshaft and connecting rod assembly, now welded together! I proceeded to swap the engine with the 35,000 mile 170 that I had yanked from my 63 Falcon Convertible (to put in a V8, of course) and happily drove that Comet as my "Winter Rat" for years until the body crumbled into a rusty pile, and then sold the engine/trans for $150.
Just Sharing,
Gene
 

NMEMJCM

Member
Nov 10, 2009
83
2
6
Long Beach CA
Apr 21, 2011
#109
  • Apr 21, 2011
  • #109
Greg, Think about what you have done so far, torn down heads.... heck.... you tore apart 3/4 of your entire car to prime it (good gob by the way, great thread), please do not be afraid of an oil pump or pushing pistons out of a cylinder and dropping a crank..... especially on such a prime specimen of a engine that you have! I employ you to pull the engine with your newly painted BLUE engine hoist and tear that thing apart! Heck.... this will make your life easier when it comes to time to prep the engine compartment (you are going to do that... right?... heck... if you keep up with these threads, your going to have a nice car in a years time or so, simply by doing all the extra work that people on the forum suggest that you would have skipped!). I'm just sayen that these old cars require a little common sense, and you can usually get close to figuring stuff out with some thought and you sir, .... have common sense. Happy wrenching.
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Apr 21, 2011
#110
  • Apr 21, 2011
  • #110
Wait, that engine is getting rebuilt? I thought this teardown was just an educational exercise since there is a better spare engine involved.

I seriously doubt that a hone would come anywhere near cleaning up those cylinders anyway. There may not even be enough room to bore out the pitting.
 
G

gregski

Active Member
Mar 13, 2010
577
0
28
Sacramento, California
Apr 21, 2011
#111
  • Apr 21, 2011
  • #111
The Pistons Are Unionized

Aside from not having anyone to catch the piston as I gently tapped it out from underneath I was pretty proud of the job. Although we have been here before. The first piston always comes out nice and easy, and looks very clean.

It's like your first kid... short labor, then nice and quiet, just eats and sleeps. You sleep well at night dreaming of having another perfect baby. Fast forward 2 years and Deuce arrives. This kid started kicking and screaming in the fallopian tube and never stopped. She won't eat and poops like a grown up. Ear infections, baby rash, colic, you name it she's got it.

Well you see just like your kids the pistons are Unionized as well, that's why they're not all at Top Dead Center all at once, they let the good ones out first. But I tell you what, I am not going to get all excited, I remember what happened with the valves a few posts up, LOL.







 
G

gregski

Active Member
Mar 13, 2010
577
0
28
Sacramento, California
Apr 21, 2011
#112
  • Apr 21, 2011
  • #112
Let's Review

65ShelbyClone said:
Wait, that engine is getting rebuilt? I thought this teardown was just an educational exercise since there is a better spare engine involved.
Click to expand...
Refer to Goal #1 in the initial post.

GOALS

1. Put the engine back to stock salvaging as many components as possible and get it running as a daily driver.
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Apr 21, 2011
#113
  • Apr 21, 2011
  • #113
I must have misread "engine" as "car."

On a side note, those pistons look like forgings.
 
G

gregski

Active Member
Mar 13, 2010
577
0
28
Sacramento, California
Apr 21, 2011
#114
  • Apr 21, 2011
  • #114
65ShelbyClone said:
... those pistons look like forgings.
Click to expand...
Are "forgings" a good thing?
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Apr 21, 2011
#115
  • Apr 21, 2011
  • #115
They'll take more hard use if that's on the menu. They'll also tend to be a little noisier when cold and contribute slightly more to oil consumption than cast slugs.

For what you're doing, it doesn't really matter one way or the other.
 
G

gregski

Active Member
Mar 13, 2010
577
0
28
Sacramento, California
Apr 21, 2011
#116
  • Apr 21, 2011
  • #116
oh, you meant forged pistons, I was just being silly
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Apr 21, 2011
#117
  • Apr 21, 2011
  • #117
I still don't get it(see avatar), but carry on anyway.
 

mustangmutt

Member
Aug 2, 2010
339
6
18
El Paso, TX
Apr 21, 2011
#118
  • Apr 21, 2011
  • #118
Those pistons also appear to be popups with full floating pins, if the resolution on my computer is that good. #6 looks promising, the rest remain to reveal their hidden secrets. Like I said earlier, that engine looks like it was gone through shortly before they took the car fishing.
 

mustangmutt

Member
Aug 2, 2010
339
6
18
El Paso, TX
Apr 21, 2011
#119
  • Apr 21, 2011
  • #119
Horseballz, thats a funny story. I have heard stories of flatheads running for hours with no oil. I watched a 4.6L modular V8 seize in about 45 seconds.
 
G

gregski

Active Member
Mar 13, 2010
577
0
28
Sacramento, California
Apr 21, 2011
#120
  • Apr 21, 2011
  • #120
horseballz said:
when I was 17, I bought a 63 Mercury Comet... engine seized SOLID... NO OIL PAN
Click to expand...
Gene, Gene, Gene I was going to give you shiet until I re read it, and noted the "when I was 17" otherwise I was thinking don't you check the oil using the dip stick when ever you buy a car?
 
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