Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.
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Alright, so no gas and sucky digital gauge jokes aside, surely you have gone for another drive by now?
Are you kidding? I haven't had one extra minute from work where it wasn't dark when I get home.
Besides, I'm still spooked from last time.
Well sure nick, but turning his lights on shuts off his gas guage.
Ok,..no pics but one things for sure:
I didn't run out of gas this time. I added 9 freakin gallons of gas in this tank, and that P.O.S. gauge reads 70. I D K if the sender is defective, or the gauge. If I had such a thing as a potentiometer, I guess i could set it at 70ohms, and see what the gauge did, then move it slowly down to 10 to see, but I don't. I'm not throwing money at this until I know where to throw it.
As for the test run:
Boost,....way more than what it should be,...10.6 P.S.I.
There's still some bucking when it starts to come onto boost, and IDK If that's because I'm holding off on matting the throttle, but I just don't want the thing to spike to some obscene P.S.I. like it did w/Collins. But it's getting close.
And it's really starting to bring on that grin.
You know the one.............The one that rewards the sense of sound.
Now that the cat is on, the turbo can now be heard,...And that BOV....Sounds like I disconnected an air hose from my compressor. The engine still only has seen maybe 4k RPM There's just SOO much left here, I just know it. But with all of the band aids,....The HG, and the rods......I wonder what is a safe RPM w/ these weanie assed stock connecting rods?
5500RPM??
I still think I'm hearing some pinging, and when I get to work on it next, the plugs are coming out. I'm gonna see what they look like. If they show any sign of heat,..I'll drop the heat range down.
To Steve,..If you look at the datalog,...It's really long. I started the thing and let it run through a warm up. It's at the 500-600 sec mark that I cross train tracks, and roll into the throttle for the first boost run. It's still looking like it may be going into the single digits AFR when it see's 10 P.S.I. I didn't really study the thing that close.
It is running good though,...I'm confident enough that I could take it to get it inspected for license plates....But since bailing out on the back lit CYCLONE rear emblem, there is no longer any solution for B/U lights. The good thing here is Alabama is notoriously lax when talking about an out of state title transfer inspection. If the wipers wipe, the head, and tail lights work. Brakes light TS's flash, horn honks......maybe I'll be able to get it titled w/o having working back up lights. I don't want to cut holes in the bumper, and the license plate "posts" that are out there might be like a little flicker of light when it needs a flood, and I'm tired of buying cheesy assed lights that don't do what I want them to do.
Speaking of plates....also wondering about the notion of a personalized plate for the car...GMONSTR.
I'm off 5 days at the end of the year. Hopefully I can get the tune right enough to put my foot in it. It's supposed to be 75 degrees here Christmas day, But I'd be a crack smoker if I thought that she would allow even 20 minutes out of that day for that.
But come Thursday I'm off....
New video anybody?
I didn't run out of gas this time. I added 9 freakin gallons of gas in this tank, and that P.O.S. gauge reads 70. I D K if the sender is defective, or the gauge. If I had such a thing as a potentiometer, I guess i could set it at 70ohms, and see what the gauge did, then move it slowly down to 10 to see, but I don't. I'm not throwing money at this until I know where to throw it.
As for the test run:
Boost,....way more than what it should be,...10.6 P.S.I.
There's still some bucking when it starts to come onto boost, and IDK If that's because I'm holding off on matting the throttle, but I just don't want the thing to spike to some obscene P.S.I. like it did w/Collins. But it's getting close.
And it's really starting to bring on that grin.
You know the one.............The one that rewards the sense of sound.
Now that the cat is on, the turbo can now be heard,...And that BOV....Sounds like I disconnected an air hose from my compressor. The engine still only has seen maybe 4k RPM There's just SOO much left here, I just know it. But with all of the band aids,....The HG, and the rods......I wonder what is a safe RPM w/ these weanie assed stock connecting rods?
5500RPM??
I still think I'm hearing some pinging, and when I get to work on it next, the plugs are coming out. I'm gonna see what they look like. If they show any sign of heat,..I'll drop the heat range down.
To Steve,..If you look at the datalog,...It's really long. I started the thing and let it run through a warm up. It's at the 500-600 sec mark that I cross train tracks, and roll into the throttle for the first boost run. It's still looking like it may be going into the single digits AFR when it see's 10 P.S.I. I didn't really study the thing that close.
It is running good though,...I'm confident enough that I could take it to get it inspected for license plates....But since bailing out on the back lit CYCLONE rear emblem, there is no longer any solution for B/U lights. The good thing here is Alabama is notoriously lax when talking about an out of state title transfer inspection. If the wipers wipe, the head, and tail lights work. Brakes light TS's flash, horn honks......maybe I'll be able to get it titled w/o having working back up lights. I don't want to cut holes in the bumper, and the license plate "posts" that are out there might be like a little flicker of light when it needs a flood, and I'm tired of buying cheesy assed lights that don't do what I want them to do.
Speaking of plates....also wondering about the notion of a personalized plate for the car...GMONSTR.
I'm off 5 days at the end of the year. Hopefully I can get the tune right enough to put my foot in it. It's supposed to be 75 degrees here Christmas day, But I'd be a crack smoker if I thought that she would allow even 20 minutes out of that day for that.
But come Thursday I'm off....
New video anybody?
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Do the plate Mike.
I will get Doby and Robby plates for mine one day.
This is so cool, hope you get it registered.
Tell Kate, "Dave says hey" for me.
I will get Doby and Robby plates for mine one day.
This is so cool, hope you get it registered.
Tell Kate, "Dave says hey" for me.
Mike the log is very good this time sir. Have you done anything to the tune since you made this run?? if not then I need a current copy of the tune file so that I can make some adjustments for you.
You are correct BTW it is way too fat in boost. AFR is down in the 8-9 range your pinging may be fuel detonation in the downpipe.
Nope, (Are you kidding, I ain't touching anything)
I'm at a bar with the wife celebrating not having to call a wrecker after driving the thing. That said, Depending on how I feel later, I'll send that to you around 10.
My camera phone sucks, remember the "waiting on the tow pics"Pics at the Bar.
A handful of 50 cent resistors from Radio Shack and some jumper wires with alligator clips is the answer to checking your fuel gauge problems. The closest standard value to 70 ohms is 68 ohms.
Or if you want to do it the neat and easy way, here is a suggestion:
RadioShack 1K-Ohm 15-Turn PC-Mount Cermet Potentiometer/Trimmer - Catalog #: 2710342, cost $3.49. This option will get you from 1000-10 ohms with the twist of a small screwdriver.
Or if you want to do it the neat and easy way, here is a suggestion:
RadioShack 1K-Ohm 15-Turn PC-Mount Cermet Potentiometer/Trimmer - Catalog #: 2710342, cost $3.49. This option will get you from 1000-10 ohms with the twist of a small screwdriver.
I knew that you'd be there w/ the answer. Great information as usual. Thanks.A handful of 50 cent resistors from Radio Shack and some jumper wires with alligator clips is the answer to checking your fuel gauge problems. The closest standard value to 70 ohms is 68 ohms.
Or if you want to do it the neat and easy way, here is a suggestion:
RadioShack 1K-Ohm 15-Turn PC-Mount Cermet Potentiometer/Trimmer - Catalog #: 2710342, cost $3.49. This option will get you from 1000-10 ohms with the twist of a small screwdriver.
I ordered the replacement for the gauge set from Summit. If yours is a stock ford style sender, and uses the same impedance values as the stock piece,...then it is available through the standard auto parts channels.
In my case, the stock replacement I tried first had the wrong impedance, and my oil pressure gauge pegged at 99 P.S.I. and wouldnt change, so you'll have to be wary of that.
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