Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.

a91what · Oct 3, 2017

Or you could run the new tune I sent you..... You know the not 13ish AFR in boost your seeing right now tune.... with the lower timing.....

Unless you already are.

Noobz347 · Oct 3, 2017

So where's all the blow-by coming from?

CarMichael Angelo · Oct 3, 2017

Noobz347 said:
So where's all the blow-by coming from?

Low tension ring set?

Noobz347 · Oct 3, 2017

jrichker · Oct 4, 2017

Question: do the connecting rods have an oil passage to pass oil up to the piston pin?

The reason I ask is because the latest generation of DOHC V8 Ford engines use a pressurized oil stream to lube the piston pin. Along with that, there is a small hole drilled in the piston pin end of the rod to squirt oil onto the underside of the piston. This is used to cool the piston and reducing detonation. Maybe that could work for you...

CarMichael Angelo · Oct 4, 2017

jrichker said:
Question: do the connecting rods have an oil passage to pass oil up to the piston pin?

The reason I ask is because the latest generation of DOHC V8 Ford engines use a pressurized oil stream to lube the piston pin. Along with that, there is a small hole drilled in the piston pin end of the rod to squirt oil onto the underside of the piston. This is used to cool the piston and reducing detonation. Maybe that could work for you...

I think I have a hole in the rod big end that's purposed to oil the pin.
( least that's what it looks like based on my recollection)

This engine is prone to hammering because of the compression ratio ( over 10.7:1)

I'm gonna take away some more timing in the top of the timing map where 10 psi shows up,...( 1.5-2 degrees) and see if I can finally get it to stop...

hoopty5.0 · Oct 5, 2017

Where is your timing at 10 psi and 10.7 CR?

CarMichael Angelo · Oct 5, 2017

hoopty5.0 said:
Where is your timing at 10 psi and 10.7 CR?

14.5

CarMichael Angelo · Oct 5, 2017

Ok,..while dealing w/ the leg pain that comes the night, ( and day) after therapy, I'm reading about catch can systems ( at 2AM), I come across this recommended system from turbonetics as their recommended alternative to a belt mounted vacuum pump system.

That canister is getting crankcase vapors in one of those ports, suction from Intake manifold PCV into another, and constant vacuum from the inlet side of the turbo to the third. Additionally, there is a 4th line, going from a breather cap mounted to the valve cover that is also routed to the inlet side of the turbo ( makes zero sense to me)
I'd really like to know how that canister is sectioned inside, and how I'm supposed to create a seperate fresh air vent on a " one bank" engine.

I think I can duplicate the three legs of this thing,..and I also have an idea to try and keep wet oil from pushing out of that valve cover while still allowing it to vent gases...

I'm the guy that believes that the best source of info comes from the mfg of the system I've got questions about.

If I could just figure out who makes that canister..

CarMichael Angelo · Oct 5, 2017

madmike1157 said:
14.5

Actually Collin @hoopty5.0 ,I just looked at it again now that the new tune is installed...
13.0 at high boost...

RangerJoe · Oct 5, 2017

madmike1157 said:
Actually Collin @hoopty5.0 ,I just looked at it again now that the new tune is installed...
13.0 at high boost...

I think water meth injection is your best bet. E85 would mean that you will have to keep up with stations that sell wherever you decide to travel. You can always throw a couple of gallons of meth in the trunk for travels and it is easy to find on the road.

Joe

CarMichael Angelo · Oct 5, 2017

RangerJoe said:
I think water meth injection is your best bet. E85 would mean that you will have to keep up with stations that sell wherever you decide to travel. You can always throw a couple of gallons of meth in the trunk for travels and it is easy to find on the road.

Joe

Yep,..the more I think about it, the more that a water meth system, and a readjusted tune to take advantage of it are the next things I'm gonna do to this car.

Noobz347 · Oct 5, 2017

Do you already run a windage tray?

CarMichael Angelo · Oct 5, 2017

Noobz347 said:
Do you already run a windage tray?

And where do ya spose, I'd find a windage tray for this turd?

90sickfox · Oct 5, 2017

Mike, I've been thinking about you're dilemma.

Seems like you could use an electric vacuum pump and either use a regulator or cut the voltage down to reduce the vacuum. ( blower motor resistor ? )... Seems like you may need an oil separator between the canister and the pump, too. Just to help condense extra vapor. The Hella vacuum pump is rated at 15in. hg. I know you were looking at vacuum pumps and opted to change direction. The good thing about an electric vacuum pump is it can be mounted anywhere around the car....like right in front of the machine guns.

Volvo also makes a vacuum pump....

Noobz347 · Oct 5, 2017

madmike1157 said:
And where do ya spose, I'd find a windage tray for this turd?

Aren't you one of those guys?

CarMichael Angelo · Oct 5, 2017

Noobz347 said:
Aren't you one of those guys?

I appreciate the nod towards my capabilities w/ the most basic of tools, but I ain't building a windage tray for a street car.

CarMichael Angelo · Oct 5, 2017

Spoke with the guy that sold me my turbo,....asked him about the evac, and the detonation.

The only recommendation he had w/o using a belt driven pump ( which he admitted,...wasn't a solution for a street driven car,) was to use a puke tank, and really big (1" hose) supply lines. Plus an additional valve cover mounted breather.
Electric pumps don't last either he stated.
I told him about the low tension ring set, and he said that since the plugs weren't fouling, that it sounded like normal blow by for the situation,..that I just wasn't giving a big enough hole for the engine to breathe through.

( credit to Noobz for that advice already submitted)

He added that if the vapor was bugging me, then the only real solution was a tear down, and a standard tension ring set.

The detonation thing was different.....he said removing excessive timing adds heat back into the chamber as a by product.....I asked, well what am is posed to do then,..keep adding fuel?

He was ambiguous....trying to sell me on a dyno tune session....

I really didn't talk as much as I had to listen to him,....he is one of " those guys" that once he's on a roll,..you can't get a word in edgewise...so...the detonation cure in my mind is still gonna be about increasing the octane, and cooling the chamber with water meth inj.

I am gonna install a push in breather where my oil fill cap is,..that'll put a 1" hole in the front, and a 3/4" hole in the back...we'll see how much crap ends up on my valve cover around that breather.

a91what · Oct 5, 2017

Hmm. We could richen it up to about 11:1 AFR that will hold detonation off but you will see a slight drop in power. I say we do it and see what comes of it.

But I think wmeth is the real solution.

90sickfox · Oct 5, 2017

Can it be tuned to....when the water meth runs out the fuel will richen to the 11;1 ratio....running safe.

Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.

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