Just one more instance where the monster just wants to be a monster..
Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.
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Just one more instance where the monster just wants to be a monster..
Just found a rear end girdle for 100 bucks shipped...( it's Chinee). 
Ordered it. Will be here Monday. I've decided to pull out the diff Sunday, and try and tackle the TLoc rebuild. ( I'm sure that I'm gonna hate myself for doing that) I'll shoot for getting it back in, and leave it waiting on the rear end girdle. The current 44 pound injectors are maxxed out, fortunately I have a set of 60 pounders. Depending on how frazzled I am after trying to jam 10 clutches in a space that only 8 fit in, I'll swap those out tomorrow too.
Ordered it. Will be here Monday. I've decided to pull out the diff Sunday, and try and tackle the TLoc rebuild. ( I'm sure that I'm gonna hate myself for doing that) I'll shoot for getting it back in, and leave it waiting on the rear end girdle. The current 44 pound injectors are maxxed out, fortunately I have a set of 60 pounders. Depending on how frazzled I am after trying to jam 10 clutches in a space that only 8 fit in, I'll swap those out tomorrow too.
Speaking of 9 lives, did your cat survive the move? I have known a couple that lost the ability to hit their litter boxes after moving homes, and had to "go on vacation."
Referring to a slightly earlier post, I agree that technology has made cars much more fun to drive because it enables the car to do things better than faster than people can. I have been driving manual transmissions since automatics were known as power robbing slush boxes. But no more, not with automated twin clutch technology. My current (obsolete) vehicle has a 6 speed manual, with clutch. I start in first and end up in 6th, but rarely use all the intermediate gears. For instance; I like to wind it out in first and second then shift to 6th when I reach the speed limit. If one is foolish enough to try this with the twin clutch manual paddle shifters, it will not happen. Better to just leave it in full automatic mode and reach the speed limit at least 1/10 of a second faster. A quick start from rest with a conventional manual means carefully modulating the throttle and clutch to minimize wheel spin but maximize acceleration. How much more fun it is to just push the launch control button and get a perfect launch every time. A modern automatic eliminates the tedious maneuver of heel-and-toe down shifts, just push a paddle. Easy is better. But wait, the best is yet to come. Apparently Porsche is working on an autonomous track driving mode. Imagine being able to get in the car, push a button and lap a road course faster than you can drive it yourself. Even better, I hope they develop a fully automatic mode where you just set the number of laps; leave the car, and push “start” on the key fob. The car will lap even faster without the weight of a “driver”. Faster is more fun; right?
What about skill? Don't you want to learn how to drive a car?
Who wins the race?
The car or the driver
Who wins the race?
The car or the driver
All three cats have a giant litter box that they cant miss..
It's called outdoors.
I don't do litter boxes.
Did you ever do a mod and wonder if it was really worth it after you got it finished?
I gotta admit, I really had to force myself to remove the differential this morning....I thought that maybe I'd just replace the bad bolts that are missing out of the ring gear, replace that weak assed cover with the girdle when it gets here Tuesday, and call it done.
That lasted only until I did a "Mike test".
Wanna know how bad your T-loc is worn out?
Jack up one rear tire, while leaving the other touching the ground, put the transmission in neutral, and try to spin the tire that you lifted off the ground.
Mine spun so easy, I had to check to make sure that the other tire was touching the ground. ( I was worried that I might have an open diff)
So,..I removed the tires and the rest of the junk that holds the axles in.
I had watched several vids regarding rebuilding a T loc, and was expecting a fight, but this was easy comparatively speaking.
Once that diff is out and on a bench, the spiders spin out like butter...The thing comes apart equally easy. The only thing you gotta pay attention to is the left/right orientation of things,...and you will need a dial caliper to measure thicknesses.
My old junk was visibly worn, you could see where the one clutch that rides next to the spider gear was showing it the worst.
Notice the "shoulder" on the one clutch.
I measured all that crap stacked together, and it said that it was like .654 thick ( That was with me turnin the one worn out clutch over so it would read close to its original thickness.)
The Ford kit only comes with stuff thick enough to install it at .660....It was all I could do.
Regardless, the spiders rolled right back in when I had both new clutch packs installed,....I was concerned that they were too loose...everything I watched this morning shows these guys forcing the spiders to roll into place.
I put it back together, and temporary bolted the ring gear in w/ 3 bolts..( couldn't get the new bolts from the local auto parts houses.....go figure) I'll install the 10 bolts and torque them in place from under the car where I'll be able to lock the drive train from spinning when I do that.
So,...weak new knees and all, I hefted that sucker back into the housing, and bolted and torqued the caps into place..
It's waiting on Tuesday when I get the ring gear bolts and the cover..
Then,...I performed the same "Mike test" only this time with one axle locked, and a 3' long wrecking bar in the studs on the other axle..
That sht dont turn now.....
So this is a mod that I'm glad I did. If it wouldn't have been for the damn stupid ring gear bolts coming off and flying around in the rear end, I would've put this off forever..
Now,...this is me.
.
I gotta admit, I really had to force myself to remove the differential this morning....I thought that maybe I'd just replace the bad bolts that are missing out of the ring gear, replace that weak assed cover with the girdle when it gets here Tuesday, and call it done.
That lasted only until I did a "Mike test".
Wanna know how bad your T-loc is worn out?
Jack up one rear tire, while leaving the other touching the ground, put the transmission in neutral, and try to spin the tire that you lifted off the ground.
Mine spun so easy, I had to check to make sure that the other tire was touching the ground. ( I was worried that I might have an open diff)
So,..I removed the tires and the rest of the junk that holds the axles in.
I had watched several vids regarding rebuilding a T loc, and was expecting a fight, but this was easy comparatively speaking.
Once that diff is out and on a bench, the spiders spin out like butter...The thing comes apart equally easy. The only thing you gotta pay attention to is the left/right orientation of things,...and you will need a dial caliper to measure thicknesses.
My old junk was visibly worn, you could see where the one clutch that rides next to the spider gear was showing it the worst.
I measured all that crap stacked together, and it said that it was like .654 thick ( That was with me turnin the one worn out clutch over so it would read close to its original thickness.)
The Ford kit only comes with stuff thick enough to install it at .660....It was all I could do.
Regardless, the spiders rolled right back in when I had both new clutch packs installed,....I was concerned that they were too loose...everything I watched this morning shows these guys forcing the spiders to roll into place.
I put it back together, and temporary bolted the ring gear in w/ 3 bolts..( couldn't get the new bolts from the local auto parts houses.....go figure) I'll install the 10 bolts and torque them in place from under the car where I'll be able to lock the drive train from spinning when I do that.
So,...weak new knees and all, I hefted that sucker back into the housing, and bolted and torqued the caps into place..
It's waiting on Tuesday when I get the ring gear bolts and the cover..
Then,...I performed the same "Mike test" only this time with one axle locked, and a 3' long wrecking bar in the studs on the other axle..
That sht dont turn now.....
So this is a mod that I'm glad I did. If it wouldn't have been for the damn stupid ring gear bolts coming off and flying around in the rear end, I would've put this off forever..
Now,...this is me.
.
K....
Got the rear end back together, took the car out and test beat it...it's all good. Over-revved the piss out of the engine as usual, only this time it was so extreme I knew it. Most of the time, I'm shifting out of first in anticipation of it going past its rev limiter, but last night I held it there too long,..I actually felt it lose power, then I shifted.
That piece of carelessness caused to engine to spew more oil than usual out of one of the two breather holes...and that made a mess..but the monster just keeps ticking.
I wonder how high this engine would spin before it'd throw a connecting rod through the side of my up-replaceable engine block?
I'll endeavor to NOT try and find that out.
I don't like the side profile of the car at current ride height. I cannot add anymore height by simply cranking up the spanner nut on the coil over w/o dangerously impacting rebound ( extension). If I raise the car the inch I want to, it'll only leave 1.5" of extension before the shock tops out.
So I had to buy these ding- dang-deals:
This thing replaces the strut eye currently on top of the strut. It comes in various lengths, but I only needed an additional inch as it is. It'll push the piston down into the strut an additional inch, so that I won't run the risk of damaging the shock if I go over a big dip in the road. Summit....60 bucks for the pair.
I gotta admit...I'm getting closer, and closer to justifying a tear down on the engine...as good as this thing runs,.i hate the blow by thing...I hate the oil leaks.
There are great aftermarket con rods out there,.(AU).I can have the cam dealt with...there is a Cometic MLS head gasket out there (AU)...I believe that if I wanted to cram 18 psi in it with the right HG, and a conn rod capable of dealing with the compressive load, I'd have the first 500 hp 250I-6 in the world.
Got the rear end back together, took the car out and test beat it...it's all good. Over-revved the piss out of the engine as usual, only this time it was so extreme I knew it. Most of the time, I'm shifting out of first in anticipation of it going past its rev limiter, but last night I held it there too long,..I actually felt it lose power, then I shifted.
That piece of carelessness caused to engine to spew more oil than usual out of one of the two breather holes...and that made a mess..but the monster just keeps ticking.
I wonder how high this engine would spin before it'd throw a connecting rod through the side of my up-replaceable engine block?
I'll endeavor to NOT try and find that out.
I don't like the side profile of the car at current ride height. I cannot add anymore height by simply cranking up the spanner nut on the coil over w/o dangerously impacting rebound ( extension). If I raise the car the inch I want to, it'll only leave 1.5" of extension before the shock tops out.
So I had to buy these ding- dang-deals:
This thing replaces the strut eye currently on top of the strut. It comes in various lengths, but I only needed an additional inch as it is. It'll push the piston down into the strut an additional inch, so that I won't run the risk of damaging the shock if I go over a big dip in the road. Summit....60 bucks for the pair.
I gotta admit...I'm getting closer, and closer to justifying a tear down on the engine...as good as this thing runs,.i hate the blow by thing...I hate the oil leaks.
There are great aftermarket con rods out there,.(AU).I can have the cam dealt with...there is a Cometic MLS head gasket out there (AU)...I believe that if I wanted to cram 18 psi in it with the right HG, and a conn rod capable of dealing with the compressive load, I'd have the first 500 hp 250I-6 in the world.
- Mar 2, 2015
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People have warned me about this, Mike. This is called " boost fever " and you have a very bad case.
Where will it stop ? I'm sure that ( with a little work ) you could get that thing to hold 24psi. All you need to do is upgrade the head studs to 3/4 inch, coat the block with a 2 inch thick spread of JB Weld, and the aforementioned parts list.
The Monster is still a monster....whether its 7psi...10psi....or 18psi. A dead monster... ain't no monster.
Where will it stop ? I'm sure that ( with a little work ) you could get that thing to hold 24psi. All you need to do is upgrade the head studs to 3/4 inch, coat the block with a 2 inch thick spread of JB Weld, and the aforementioned parts list.
The Monster is still a monster....whether its 7psi...10psi....or 18psi. A dead monster... ain't no monster.
People have warned me about this, Mike. This is called " boost fever " and you have a very bad case.
Where will it stop ? I'm sure that ( with a little work ) you could get that thing to hold 24psi. All you need to do is upgrade the head studs to 3/4 inch, coat the block with a 2 inch thick spread of JB Weld, and the aforementioned parts list.
The Monster is still a monster....whether its 7psi...10psi....or 18psi. A dead monster... ain't no monster.
Yeah,...I know. And talk is talk. Whether or not I ever lose my mind and start down the path to nowhere and bump 11 to 15,...15 to 18, and eventually 18 to Monster Armageddon will solely be the result of me finding another engine to replace the current monster mill.
Fact is there's only one engine I'm lusting for as a replacement for the current one,..and logistics are the main reason it'll never be... ( I'd have to have an entire engine shipped from Australia) even if I cross that literal ocean, the starter is on the wrong side, ( I'd have to build an adapter plate) But....if the stars ever align,......
Barra baby!!!
Just do it already. Its only gonna be what, $1000, 20/30 hours of your time, and your sanity? 500 rwhp, here Mike and Monster come!
$1000?
Did you forget a zero?
Oh....you're talkin about the cam, re-ring, Hg, and conn rod deal.....the rings are 200-225, the HG is 300-400, The rods are 600, the cam is 200, springs are 200., and the machine work for all of the " stuff" probably another 200-250...probably close to 1500.00
To add 100 hp.
And split the block.
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Maybe, it’s time to equip/install the rev limiter on/in the MS?K....
Got the rear end back together, took the car out and test beat it...it's all good. Over-revved the piss out of the engine as usual, only this time it was so extreme I knew it. Most of the time, I'm shifting out of first in anticipation of it going past its rev limiter, but last night I held it there too long,..I actually felt it lose power, then I shifted.
That piece of carelessness caused to engine to spew more oil than usual out of one of the two breather holes...and that made a mess..but the monster just keeps ticking.
I wonder how high this engine would spin before it'd throw a connecting rod through the side of my up-replaceable engine block?
I'll endeavor to NOT try and find that out.
I don't like the side profile of the car at current ride height. I cannot add anymore height by simply cranking up the spanner nut on the coil over w/o dangerously impacting rebound ( extension). If I raise the car the inch I want to, it'll only leave 1.5" of extension before the shock tops out.
So I had to buy these ding- dang-deals:
This thing replaces the strut eye currently on top of the strut. It comes in various lengths, but I only needed an additional inch as it is. It'll push the piston down into the strut an additional inch, so that I won't run the risk of damaging the shock if I go over a big dip in the road. Summit....60 bucks for the pair.
I gotta admit...I'm getting closer, and closer to justifying a tear down on the engine...as good as this thing runs,.i hate the blow by thing...I hate the oil leaks.
There are great aftermarket con rods out there,.(AU).I can have the cam dealt with...there is a Cometic MLS head gasket out there (AU)...I believe that if I wanted to cram 18 psi in it with the right HG, and a conn rod capable of dealing with the compressive load, I'd have the first 500 hp 250I-6 in the world.
Man I tell ya...the monster should be a cat.
Cause he's got 9 lives.
What's that look like to you?
Its one of the 10 ring gear bolts that were all on their way to falling out.
They were all loose, several had fallen out, and laying in the bottom of the housing...one of them got picked up and flung at the cover so hard, it punched a hole clean through the cover.
One of them is still unaccounted for...
( it likely never was installed)
For the last month, the rear end has been clanking when I'd put it into gear...Now I know why.
Two holes are gonna have to stay empty for tiday...one bolts threads were trashed..its very possible that the ring gears threads are the same.
It'll get me home tonight, and that's all that matters..ill obviously have to put new bolts in when I get him back home safe...ill consider rebuilding the Tloc, and adding a cover w/bearing cap support at that time too.
So...one more life down... That puts me down to about 3 left.
Been MIA a bit. I was about to say, before I saw there were more pages of replies to read, that unless your ring gear bolts came loose or the spider gear pin or bolt that holds it in came loose, aint no way you hurt an 8.8 unless you found a lot more traction and did some neutral slams! Did you use red loctite on the ring gear this time?
BTW, congrats on the octane booster and MORE boost. But that will only satisfy you until you need MORE boost!
It's Birthday time!
Birthday time! Uh-uh-uh-uh-Uh.....Birthday time...Finally I can stop talking about it and start doing it.
That'll mean a whole new fuel curve in the boost part of the map..with increased timing to boot...I get to start all over again.
I was thinkin that I'd consider switching fuel tables between water meth, and a non- water meth tune.....triggered by the low level switch. that way if I run out of that junk, it'll revert back to the current fat tune.
Wonder what I gotta do to do that?...
In the mean time, I'm going to remove the shocks in anticipation of getting the new extensions, and start mounting, plumbing, and wiring this system.
I suggest a 40psi Hobbs switch in the line that feeds the nozzle. A simple t fitting will make this happen.
NO(normally open) _/_ Hobbs switch gets ground to one pin and the other goes to pe1 or PAO on the board (will need to check for ms2) this is an hardware input trigger to the ecu. So when the Hobbs switch sees 40psi in the meth line it sends a signal to the ecu saying we have spray action this is linked to the table switch function.
No pressure no table switching, this covers you if the pump doesn't work or the fuse blows or your just out of fluid.
This is failsafe.
NO(normally open) _/_ Hobbs switch gets ground to one pin and the other goes to pe1 or PAO on the board (will need to check for ms2) this is an hardware input trigger to the ecu. So when the Hobbs switch sees 40psi in the meth line it sends a signal to the ecu saying we have spray action this is linked to the table switch function.
No pressure no table switching, this covers you if the pump doesn't work or the fuse blows or your just out of fluid.
This is failsafe.
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