Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.

Hp and torque losses with that system would liely be 15% unform. Sufrace area too small, and its acts as a gate valve with a flow efficency of propably worse than that 15% loss figure. I'd say its simply NOT an option, but its something you've gotta work out yourself. Use the science to get the right result. The worst kind of losses exist with that kind of filter.



Box the suckers, and don't use any form or bell mouth are or zone filtration. Neva Eva Eva filter at that point. Filter down wind some how, and you'll gain bulk Hospepower, torque and you'll have a proper filtration system.


With a great brake booster, you've got proper brakes, how about proper filtration?



1. Fuel standoff is active from about 3/16" from the bell mouths. A flat plate close to the bell mouth, stub stack, or carb intake with a parblic riduis will make more powert than an un filtered intake.

2. Flitration is not about size, its about preventing items getting into the ring cylinder boundary, and crwating wear. People theororize about the caps in cotton based K and N filters, and damn the items to hades having no idea how air filtation works. Air filtration is about stopping fine PM2.5 and 10 and 60 size parts of dust getting into your engine. Its the fine stuff that kills, the coarse normally drops out due to Stokes Law.

3. The paraolic intake and flat plate rules compell people to use the Holden engineer Warwick Bryce method.





The panel air filter was the humble Datsun Maxima fuel injected item, Ryco # 340

Designed for the first Turbo Datsun Bluebird SSS of 1980 model year





https://www.streetmachine.com.au/fe...den-v8-part-two-blue-black-motor-1980-to-2000


I wouldn't add filtration like that, I'd use one flat piece of plate glass or perspex/Lexan 3/16" from the bellmouths, and then use a lare single filter like the 365 dollar ferrari or Lamborgini V12 filter as an anular base to allow air in around the carb. Bob Wallace from Lambroghini got that sucker nailed down in 1963's GT350 Lambo








If you can, the old AC Cobra or Shelby air cleaner would work. You can remote mount it over the center of the engine.






Or copy a little bit of Austin Rover Maestro 1300 A + engineering and put a proper air cleaner right over the top of a 90 degree bell mouth












The older Mini at least had the carb arount the other way





But I'm sure you get the remote mounted air clearner idea.


Bell mouth and Stub Stack filters are the worst devices known to man, they ruin the pre frontal flow of air to the air fuel mix, and that's where all the performance and mid range torque goes. Turbulent air flow is what it produces, like a dispator from water flowing over a dam.

Re-read any book form Vizard on ideal carb intakes, and he pans that kind of intake for the three reasons above. Or see http://bradthebikeboy.blogspot.co.nz/2014/06/inlet-trumpet-design-and-inlet-length.html

Item 3, 6.-11 shapes, ABSOLUTELY UNFILTERD at that point is the best (only!) option.



Remote mount a single Lambo filter around the ITB's.


Good fortune. Don't buy into stuff that doesn't work. You can keep the artistry, but keep it under glass.

SOHC Ford Vizard book in Air Filtration section covers your filtration needs further.


Restricted air filtration is fine if it has enough surface area, and is placed far enough away from the ITB's.

The weave and filter matariel on the early 1963 to 1980 crb Fazz and Lambo's are quite the worst for air flow, but the filters area's are darn huge, and as air filters, they are the best grit traps for sub 63 micron dust you'll ever get. The performance loss is nothing more than a 1% with the filters on.


ITB's and onebig ass filter will do the job.


Make your own decision. Those Ram Pipe air flow losses don't include the loss due to the appalling gate valve like filter in those filtered stubs.




Just nasty. +