Then everybody would have one!
I personally, wouldn't know what to do with myself if you began selling parts for bellybuttons. 
Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.
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Then everybody would have one!
I personally, wouldn't know what to do with myself if you began selling parts for bellybuttons. 
I'm about 1 hour into actual run time on the new combo. With Steve linked in via bluetooth riding along, several full pulls got made.
It was less than impressive. It's running clean, but ain't setting the world on fire.
I tell Steve that and he sees it on the computer,....the car is sluggish, and struggling to even make 10 psi. Getting to 4500 rpm took awhile.
Somethings wrong.
He looks at the tune, and quickly determines that the VVTI part of the tune isnt doing anything. On this engine, potential power is totally dependent upon the intake cam being able to advance with engine load.
He isnt familiar with where it needs to be, or how to get it there...I tell him that its been an hour, and I need to check things out anyway, and decide to cut bait, and return back to my garage till we can get that part sorted out.
While driving, he's reading.
I get the thing back with no incident. I shut it off,...he's still reading.
I get out, and open the hood.
Nothing......no oil leak, no water leak, no spooge dripping out of the filter on my pretty red home made puke tank..
I almost had to pinch myself.
I look under the car to see if theres anything dripping...
There is....right about between the engine, and trans,...slightly off center.
( it wasnt transmission fluid, and it wasnt engine oil)
The water hose at the back of the engine goes into a bulkhead fitting that passes water to the heater, and its dripping from that fitting. Simply a matter of tightening a hose end fitting.
Getting to it might be a Son Of A Bitch though.
But...other than that...I got no leaks.
The really bright light at end of the tunnel though is this:
All the time I'm looking at stuff, Steve's still reading, by now he's gotten into the tune, and wants me to restart the engine. He want me to rev it slowly to 4500rpm.
Sounds just like it always has. Still lazy.
He makes a change...
"Try it now" he says..
COMPLETELY DIFFERENT ENGINE !
It takes nothing to get it to rev, and it zings to 5k...and now sounds exactly like every other pissed off swarm of Hornets all 2jz's sound like when they get revved.
And it makes boost just revving it.
It was less than impressive. It's running clean, but ain't setting the world on fire.
I tell Steve that and he sees it on the computer,....the car is sluggish, and struggling to even make 10 psi. Getting to 4500 rpm took awhile.
Somethings wrong.
He looks at the tune, and quickly determines that the VVTI part of the tune isnt doing anything. On this engine, potential power is totally dependent upon the intake cam being able to advance with engine load.
He isnt familiar with where it needs to be, or how to get it there...I tell him that its been an hour, and I need to check things out anyway, and decide to cut bait, and return back to my garage till we can get that part sorted out.
While driving, he's reading.
I get the thing back with no incident. I shut it off,...he's still reading.
I get out, and open the hood.
Nothing......no oil leak, no water leak, no spooge dripping out of the filter on my pretty red home made puke tank..
I almost had to pinch myself.
I look under the car to see if theres anything dripping...
There is....right about between the engine, and trans,...slightly off center.
( it wasnt transmission fluid, and it wasnt engine oil)
The water hose at the back of the engine goes into a bulkhead fitting that passes water to the heater, and its dripping from that fitting. Simply a matter of tightening a hose end fitting.
Getting to it might be a Son Of A Bitch though.
But...other than that...I got no leaks.
The really bright light at end of the tunnel though is this:
All the time I'm looking at stuff, Steve's still reading, by now he's gotten into the tune, and wants me to restart the engine. He want me to rev it slowly to 4500rpm.
Sounds just like it always has. Still lazy.
He makes a change...
"Try it now" he says..
COMPLETELY DIFFERENT ENGINE !
It takes nothing to get it to rev, and it zings to 5k...and now sounds exactly like every other pissed off swarm of Hornets all 2jz's sound like when they get revved.
And it makes boost just revving it.
Oh....as with all things motorsport...
As soon as I become accustomed to whatever it makes...
That will not be enough.
Foxslider
im not that much of a idiot
ANNDD....just like a F&F sequel that just wont seem to fcking go away.....
The oil leak reappeared.
I got nothing left to do but tolerate it till I remove that pan, and fix it the right way.
Whether I drop the K member anytime soon, or wait till I pull the engine for the piston/rod/trans changeout....the oil pan fix will be totally dependent on how this engine runs post VVTI tune.
If it runs like I'm thinking its gonna run......
I'm gonna have to add oil to the engine till that day.
The oil leak reappeared.
I got nothing left to do but tolerate it till I remove that pan, and fix it the right way.
Whether I drop the K member anytime soon, or wait till I pull the engine for the piston/rod/trans changeout....the oil pan fix will be totally dependent on how this engine runs post VVTI tune.
If it runs like I'm thinking its gonna run......
I'm gonna have to add oil to the engine till that day.
i’ve been thinking about that.....only on a smaller scale.
If only I could get past buying a box of maxi-pads at the drug store.....
Amazon product ASIN B07YLKX912View: https://www.amazon.com/Pig-New-Original-Purpose-Absorbent/dp/B07YLKX912/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=pig+mat&qid=1592196718&sr=8-5
Hold on to your man card and buy the right tool for the job.
Sheesh.
looking at my options for a fix on the oil pan. To be sure that it’s fixed once and for all, i’d just buy a new one and remove my fabbed pan.
Problem is,...YOU CANT BUY A PAN THAT FITS THIS CAR.
You can barely find the factory rear sump pan, and when you do, it’s not really a rear sump pan. Im pretty sure that i’d have to modify the sht out of the k member to make that thing fit.
If there ever was a clear case of “ build it, and they will come”, it’s a sheet metal rear sump pan to fit a 2jz.
So, that leaves me no choice but to fix what I’ve got.
With the engine this close to running now, I’m not gonna do this just yet, but it’ll have to happen sooner than later.
In the interim,...ill just have to rig up some kind of 2jz Kotex to help keep the “embarrassing leakage” contained to keep it from fouling the underside of the car. I just bought a roll of the pig mat that @74stang2togo recommended...i’ll make some kind of oil pan diaper and secure it to the pan somehow...
I may be doing it sooner than I think though.....I can’t get to that freakin fitting to try and tighten it a little more to stop the water leak. I may have to drop the K member to do that.
And if I’m dropping the k member to fix that leak, i’ll suck it up and deal with the pan at that time as well.
Just not yet.
Problem is,...YOU CANT BUY A PAN THAT FITS THIS CAR.
You can barely find the factory rear sump pan, and when you do, it’s not really a rear sump pan. Im pretty sure that i’d have to modify the sht out of the k member to make that thing fit.
If there ever was a clear case of “ build it, and they will come”, it’s a sheet metal rear sump pan to fit a 2jz.
So, that leaves me no choice but to fix what I’ve got.
With the engine this close to running now, I’m not gonna do this just yet, but it’ll have to happen sooner than later.
In the interim,...ill just have to rig up some kind of 2jz Kotex to help keep the “embarrassing leakage” contained to keep it from fouling the underside of the car. I just bought a roll of the pig mat that @74stang2togo recommended...i’ll make some kind of oil pan diaper and secure it to the pan somehow...
I may be doing it sooner than I think though.....I can’t get to that freakin fitting to try and tighten it a little more to stop the water leak. I may have to drop the K member to do that.
And if I’m dropping the k member to fix that leak, i’ll suck it up and deal with the pan at that time as well.
Just not yet.
I'm going solo tomorrow.
It'll be the first time I attempt to make a full power pull 4 real.
The engine sounds like an entirely different animal now that the intake cam is advancing. Throttle response is markedly crisper..
Steve spent an hour dicking with the tune again...( what am I.....up to about 5 hours?)
I was the "foot on the pedal".
( And a damn fine job I did if I dont say so myself)
After the hour of run time, with several 5000 rpm " pulls" on the clock....I figured I'd look under the car and find a mini-envronmental disaster oozing out from everywhere...
And because I just love looking like a on again/off again bi-polar schizophrenic that thinks the the leaks come and go at will......
This time....all I have is a very tiny oil leak under the engine..evidently the little bit of oomph I was able to put on the fitting was enough to stop the water leak.
The oil leak will come back...MOF tomorrow, I expect it to be bigger.
nonetheless...I'm driving it tomorrow.
Leak aside, I trust it more than the OG monster engine, it idles w/o sounding like it's coming apart.
It keeps its oil inside.
Tomorrow..let's see if I come on here with with something more than another problem.
It'll be the first time I attempt to make a full power pull 4 real.
The engine sounds like an entirely different animal now that the intake cam is advancing. Throttle response is markedly crisper..
Steve spent an hour dicking with the tune again...( what am I.....up to about 5 hours?)
I was the "foot on the pedal".
( And a damn fine job I did if I dont say so myself)
After the hour of run time, with several 5000 rpm " pulls" on the clock....I figured I'd look under the car and find a mini-envronmental disaster oozing out from everywhere...
And because I just love looking like a on again/off again bi-polar schizophrenic that thinks the the leaks come and go at will......
This time....all I have is a very tiny oil leak under the engine..evidently the little bit of oomph I was able to put on the fitting was enough to stop the water leak.
The oil leak will come back...MOF tomorrow, I expect it to be bigger.
nonetheless...I'm driving it tomorrow.
Leak aside, I trust it more than the OG monster engine, it idles w/o sounding like it's coming apart.
It keeps its oil inside.
Tomorrow..let's see if I come on here with with something more than another problem.
Are we going to get a video of the tires melting? After all these months, I think we deserve it!!
Well,......I made it.
Right now I can only surmise that the spring in the gate is a 10 pound spring. A 2jz at 10 psi will never set anybodies world on fire, and it certainly didn't do anything for me. It does run good though, and maintains its temp, and runs at 50 psi at cruise RPM (2200 at 73mph). If the gate only has a 10psi spring, the solution is to start applying boost duty to the controller till I get it to 18-20 ( where it's supposed to make 500-550 whp) I guess to know that for sure I could remove the gate and pressure test it to see where it cracks open...
Or....
Turn on the EBC, and set the duty cycle to about 40-50%.
And to quell the rolling eyes over my obsession to look under the car and either find a leak or not......The only thing I see is that freakin wet oil pan (minus all of its paint where I've been wiping lacquer thinner on it to try and seal the damn leaks)
I'm gonna have to get used to buzzing the engine. I'm short shifting it to keep it from going apesht. (which it isnt doing). The only time it remotely felt like it was making power was when I got here and took the back road into the dealership where I could run it from a slow roll through 2/3rd gears wot.
It will get sideways just changing a gear.
Right now I can only surmise that the spring in the gate is a 10 pound spring. A 2jz at 10 psi will never set anybodies world on fire, and it certainly didn't do anything for me. It does run good though, and maintains its temp, and runs at 50 psi at cruise RPM (2200 at 73mph). If the gate only has a 10psi spring, the solution is to start applying boost duty to the controller till I get it to 18-20 ( where it's supposed to make 500-550 whp) I guess to know that for sure I could remove the gate and pressure test it to see where it cracks open...
Or....
Turn on the EBC, and set the duty cycle to about 40-50%.
And to quell the rolling eyes over my obsession to look under the car and either find a leak or not......The only thing I see is that freakin wet oil pan (minus all of its paint where I've been wiping lacquer thinner on it to try and seal the damn leaks)
I'm gonna have to get used to buzzing the engine. I'm short shifting it to keep it from going apesht. (which it isnt doing). The only time it remotely felt like it was making power was when I got here and took the back road into the dealership where I could run it from a slow roll through 2/3rd gears wot.
It will get sideways just changing a gear.
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